glass condensor

[dendog33]

Small pic took forever to resize. .

Anyone know what size of unit and type of unit this would take? Would it work with small copper pot etc. Wonder what it's worth as well. 8 inches long, 4 inch diameter. All one piece.
Thanks guys

[DAD300]

Probably too small for any realistic still. Worth more to a lab guy. But very cool...

Very hard to attach anything real to it.

[Hound Dog]

Just FYI on the pic....Right click on the pic and go to "open with"... Choose "Paint" (yes, the most basic program that comes with windows).... On the top tool bar, click on "resize" and choose "pixels" then choose 600 for the largest perspective. Hit save. You will now have a picture you can post on the forum. It takes seconds.

[dendog33]

Just FYI on the pic....Right click on the pic and go to "open with"... Choose "Paint" (yes, the most basic program that comes with windows).... On the top tool bar, click on "resize" and choose "pixels" then choose 600 for the largest perspective. Hit save. You will now have a picture you can post on the forum. It takes seconds.

Thanks, problem was i was not on a pc.

[Bushman]

If you were on an iPad there is a free app called simple resize that I use and is very easy.
As for your condenser I have a 3 foot glass outer shell on my shotgun condenser with four 1/2" copper tubes. The glass adds a cool factor but has some considerations that must be made. When cleaning and storing you must be very careful as it is breakable. Also getting a seal is difficult and I tried several methods, using some type of silicone will not work as the heat (expansion & contraction) will create leaks. I ended up having to use a gasket with double clamps on both ends. My gaskets work because they only come in contact with the water and not alcohol.

[lickermaker]

AND! who knows what chemicals the previous owner has been running through this condenser, how are you going to clean inside every piece to gaurantee its clean and safe?

[dendog33]

AND! who knows what chemicals the previous owner has been running through this condenser, how are you going to clean inside every piece to gaurantee its clean and safe?

ya the only dirt is in the water. Bleach, one step maybe.

[Chroi]

would make a dandy product condenser for a LM rig, except for the whole glass-holding-192-proof thing.

Is it lab grade at least? borosilicate etc?

[dendog33]

would make a dandy product condenser for a LM rig, except for the whole glass-holding-192-proof thing.

Is it lab grade at least? borosilicate etc?

Haven't looked up the model but it's from a lab. Do you have a pic of a LM rig?

[Chroi]

would make a dandy product condenser for a LM rig, except for the whole glass-holding-192-proof thing.

Is it lab grade at least? borosilicate etc?

Haven't looked up the model but it's from a lab. Do you have a pic of a LM rig?

Yikes. No offense intended but if you're not familiar with a LM still AKA a Boka, don't even think about adding glass to your first build

http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=46

[Right Lightning]

Because their internal worm coils are made of glass, which has very low thermal conductivity, especially when compared to copper, i would not consider using a lab condenser. Priced at 40 to 60 bucks on ebay, they are VERY tempting though. I WAS able to resist the temptation, however. For a comparable cost, I was able to build a much more efficient unit, using copper for the coil, and going with some recommenations from the guy at the hardware store (who asked NO "uncomfortable" questions, BTW - you gotta love a guy like that!), ended up going with PVC pipe & fittings for the outer jacket "shell". It works like a million bucks.

One glance at it, and you automatically know beyond any doubt, that it is "serious" equipment, which WILL get the job done, WITHOUT QUESTION. I myself can't even help but crack a smile every time I look at it. I'm 'still' having a hard time believing, that this "thing of sheer beauty" is something that was actually created by ME! But it may actually look better than what I am comfortable with. Thoughts of "homemade, but NOT playing around, clandestine labratory equipment" would probably come to most people's minds! You should have seen the look on one of my friend's faces when I showed it to him before I had it all glued together. It was the moment in which he unquestionably KNEW, that I was COMPLETELY SERIOUS about doing what I said I was going to do, and not just BSing around! Seeing the way that his eyes grew when he saw it, is a memory that I am not likely to ever forget!

P.S. I am waaaaaaay too paranoid, to even consider posting a pic of it! But use your imagination - you can probably come up with something similar. The trickiest part is probably in ensuring that it is sealed leak free, at the 2 places where the copper pipe passes through the PVC cooling jacket. Of course it needs to be orented vertically, so that the product flow is all "downhill" through the coil, without being able to "puddle up" anywhere. And the cooling water feed needs to enter at the bottom, with the drain connection at the top (reverse of product flow). And use of those easily removable "push-on" connectors (I use primarily 90 degree elbow connectors) makes it all a straight up plug-n-play gig!

[lickermaker]

Because their internal worm coils are made of glass, which has very low thermal conductivity, especially when compared to copper, i would not consider using a lab condenser. Priced at 40 to 60 bucks on ebay, they are VERY tempting though. I WAS able to resist the temptation, however. For a comparable cost, I was able to build a much more efficient unit, using copper for the coil, and going with some recommenations from the guy at the hardware store (who asked NO "uncomfortable" questions, BTW - you gotta love a guy like that!), ended up going with PVC pipe & fittings for the outer jacket "shell". It works like a million bucks.

One glance at it, and you automatically know beyond any doubt, that it is "serious" equipment, which WILL get the job done, WITHOUT QUESTION. I myself can't even help but crack a smile every time I look at it. I'm 'still' having a hard time believing, that this "thing of sheer beauty" is something that was actually created by ME! But it may actually look better than what I am comfortable with. Thoughts of "homemade, but NOT playing around, clandestine labratory equipment" would probably come to most people's minds! You should have seen the look on one of my friend's faces when I showed it to him before I had it all glued together. It was the moment in which he unquestionably KNEW, that I was COMPLETELY SERIOUS about doing what I said I was going to do, and not just BSing around! Seeing the way that his eyes grew when he saw it, is a memory that I am not likely to ever forget!

P.S. I am waaaaaaay too paranoid, to even consider posting a pic of it! But use your imagination - you can probably come up with something similar. The trickiest part is probably in ensuring that it is sealed leak free, at the 2 places where the copper pipe passes through the PVC cooling jacket. Of course it needs to be orented vertically, so that the product flow is all "downhill" through the coil, without being able to "puddle up" anywhere. And the cooling water feed needs to enter at the bottom, with the drain connection at the top (reverse of product flow). And use of those easily removable "push-on" connectors (I use primarily 90 degree elbow connectors) makes it all a straight up plug-n-play gig!

I am not here to stir the pot or argue with anyone. just to state the fact.Their internal worm coils are made of borosylicate, made to handle high temp gradients! not regular old glass. and obviously you have not ever experienced the hot end of your copper worm heating and softening the pvc jacket and causing a leak<only cooling water but still a bummer> nothing against your rig and I hope everything continues to work well for you. alway remember safty first.
and don't throw rocks till you've walked a mile in a mans shoes, then you have his shoes and your a mile away. good luck hurting him with that rock!