Element connections box?

[BoisBlancBoy]

Hey guys looking for some suggestions. What stainless fitting would be the best to be able to easily attach a box(metal) to cover/hide the back of the element and the connections?

I'm going to have a buddy tig weld the fitting in for me since it won't cost me anything.

[Bob Loblaw]

There are a couple of vendors that sell really slick element guard kits that fit onto a 2" SS sanitary ferrule. I have the one from the vendor not to be named or linked (rhymes with "drill wagon") and it works great. Do a google search for boiler element guard and you will find what ye seek.

[BoisBlancBoy]

Bob, so I would need that kit you are talking about, plus a 2" Ferrule correct?

So that whole setup with take 2 tri-clamps to seal up?

[bellybuster]

you can also just get your buddy to fig on an electrical box to cover the element connections. It can be tigged right to the coupling

[Windy City]

Check these out.
http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-p ... ementparts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
They come apart so you can use the wavy element if you like.
Hope this helps.

Good Luck
Windy City

[BoisBlancBoy]

you can also just get your buddy to fig on an electrical box to cover the element connections. It can be tigged right to the coupling

Any old metal box would work? I don't know much about tig welding so I assume steel can be tig welded to stainless?

[Bob Loblaw]

Bob, so I would need that kit you are talking about, plus a 2" Ferrule correct?

So that whole setup with take 2 tri-clamps to seal up?

Yes, that's it. they also sell a simple $10 piece that you can cover up with a piece of PVC pipe

I recommend going with a 2" ferrule no matter what. If you are getting the TIG for free - that's the spendy part! Ferrules only cost $5 and they give you room to install the wavy elements somebody else mentioned. Much better than a 1" NPT port, and cost is about the same.

[still_stirrin]

Check these out:
http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-p ... ementparts" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
They come apart so you can use the wavy element if you like. Hope this helps....Windy City

I used 2 of these. Works great on the 2" ferrules. The kit comes with Tri-clamp and a silicon gasket (which is good because it isn't exposed to the hot vapors, only the hot wash). Make sure you complete the ground bond to your boiler though. The kit does include wire terminals which can be soldered to the power feed.

Slick solution.

[The KYChemist]

This is how we did ours. Plate ss welded onto the half coupling, which houses the element. Then, mounted a standard junction box and extend-a-ring, to house the electrical connection portions. I would post up pics of the whole thing finished, but the "powers that be" have deemed my setup as "unsafe". It is a female four prong 220 outlet housed in the junction box. My controller has male plug ends on both sides.

[BoisBlancBoy]

KY, I didn't see this before you sent me the PM. Thanks for the idea.

I like all the idea everyone is giving me. Gives me plenty of ideas to work with.

[Soggy Bottom Boy]

..... I would post up pics of the whole thing finished, but the "powers that be" have deemed my setup as "unsafe". It is a female four prong 220 outlet housed in the junction box. My controller has male plug ends on both sides.

...and indeed it is! It is highly recommended NOT to have a male plug at the terminus of any electrical extension cord, even if it is controlled by a switch farther up the line. A short female pig-tail plug end coming out of the junction box is much safer.

If you went with a male plug, that is your choice and solution, ...and a quick way to get a frizzy hairdoo.

spector.jpg (9.19 KiB) Viewed 1707 times

I would attach a much more graphic pic, but it is very disturbing, .....way more disturbing than Phil Spector.

However, the backing plate welded directly to the coupler is a good solution. Just be sure to have good ventilation when welding on zinc plated/galvanized metal, it makes an extremely poisonous gas.

[The KYChemist]

...and indeed it is! It is highly recommended NOT to have a male plug at the terminus of any electrical extension cord, even if it is controlled by a switch farther up the line. A short female pig-tail plug end coming out of the junction box is much safer.

...And I knew this, even before others started telling me it was a bad idea. It just happens to be what works best for me. I have a rigorous check list I go through twice, before plugging in at the wall, which is my last step before firing up. I have a few runs done, and have not had a problem. When done, the wall is the first thing I go to.

DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a trained professional, and DONT try my method at home. You assume full responsibility for copying my methods, if you do.

[Bob Loblaw]

If you have access to somebody who is going to do the welding for you, get a 2" ferrule! I would not go with some home-grown solution.

Srsly. They are $5.48 at Amazon. And then you have your choice of connection boxes running from the SD Barebones at $10 to those more expensive ones.

220v coming out a exposed male adapter is

That sh!t will kill you

[BoisBlancBoy]

Bob, what is the SD barebones your talking about?

[Soggy Bottom Boy]

Bob, what is the SD barebones your talking about?

SD-BBA.jpg (13.29 KiB) Viewed 1676 times

Bare bones adapter.
You still need a 2" ferrule on the boiler. Element screws into it, and you have to do your own thing to cover the terminals and wiring connection of the element.

Full Meal Deal.
This also needs to have a 2" ferrule on the boiler.

[BoisBlancBoy]

Soggy, thanks. I understand the "SD" now, sometimes I'm a bit slow. I looked at that one last night as thought it looked pretty decent for the price.

[Bob Loblaw]

Yes, that's the one. Thanks SBB. I don't mention the vendor anymore. Had my knuckles rapped once. Don't need it twice. I have the full meal deal and it's pretty slick IMHO