240v Fan

[ShineonCrazyDiamond]

Taking my time on the second build, I've been pondering and reading about fans for the controller box. I didn't add a fan the first time, because it was built for 120. This time I'm doing 240.

So, I thought I was just going to have to grab a computer fan, and a complimentary wall wort. But an old post I just dug up says I might be able to use something like this 240v Fan, and do so inline without a separate plug in. Is this true?

I am using an 40 amp ssr, pot, etc... how would I hook this up in the box? To the ssr, or spliced (before or after) it?

Thanks everyone.

[still_stirrin]

Here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Industrial ... s=220v+fan" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Hook it in parallel with your on/off switch, for ease of operation and safety.
ss

edit: I just saw you had the same link. So, I assume you have a master power switch or relay to kill power if needed. The fan would attach to the "switched" hot leg and the other "pass-thru" hot leg, giving you a switched 240 supply.

[bearriver]

Save youself the extra hassle. There is no reason to use a 240v fan. Just get a generic PC fan and a generic 12v power supply.

K.I.S.S.

Picture ala Jimbo

[ben stiller]

Can't get any simpler than hooking the two fan wires to the 240v he already will have in the box. Plug it in fan is on. No
extra cost for the 12v power supply and zero chance of forgetting to plug in the fan.

[ShineonCrazyDiamond]

Thanks bear, I do appreciate your advice. That is how I was planning in doing it. However, if possible, I would rather do it the way Ben is describing. Also, no switch. Just the ssr.

Can't get any simpler than hooking the two fan wires to the 240v he already will have in the box. Plug it in fan is on. No
extra cost for the 12v power supply and zero chance of forgetting to plug in the fan.

You guys know where I would connect the 2 wires for the fan? I am building one of those SD DIY kits. Thanks.

[ben stiller]

In the diagram above you would hook the wires up to the 2 ac in screws on the controller. I guess if the fan speed was too high you could try to hook them up to the line out screws but fan speed would change as you adjusted you potentiometer.

[ShineonCrazyDiamond]

Awesome. Thanks

... but fan speed would change as you adjusted you potentiometer.

Not the worse thing ever, actually.

What do amp ratings do for the fans? Comparing a .01 amp to a .07 amp.

[still_stirrin]

Do you have a 220 V breaker. Hook your fan up between the 2 hot leads before you run to the SSR. The breaker would energize your circuit and turn the fan on (full on).
ss

Also, that circuit shown above uses dual motor speed controller circuits, not the SSR & pot configuration. The SSR circuit runs 1 hot to the SSR and the other hot straight to the heat element. The hot lead from the SSR runs to the heat element and provides your regulated power.

So taking the 220 V before the SSR will give you full rail voltage for the 220 V fan.

Measure voltage between the two hot leads going to your heat element (parallel connection). Measure current (series connection) inline with either hot lead. Make sure your ammeter is rated for the full current load though, or use a shunt.

[ShineonCrazyDiamond]

So I got my fan into today. It's 5inx5in of beauty. This this will suck the air right out of that controller box. I really need to make sure I have enough vent holes (Side Question: I do want to suck the air out, not push in, right? lol)

Anyways, Main question (s). The fan did not some with lead wires. It just has two terminals.

1) What gauge wire do I need to use? I will be using 10g throughout the build, as needed for 240v. So do I need to run 10g to the fan as well? it's .07 amps, if that matters.

2) Can I just solder the wire straight to the terminal, or get a connection for it? And on the other side, I'm just going to (splice) the wires to the hot leads?

Just want to make sure I'm doing it safely. And the best way.

Thanks.

Edit:

This is my setup



I could probably use an eye loop to connect to ssr post where the 'red' hot lead is connected. But the 'black' lead that goes straight to the element would have to be spliced, right?

[still_stirrin]

C'mon man...you know better than to post pictures on an outside host. You'll piss people off.

A 1/10 amp (220 volt) fan can use 14 or 16 gage wire easy. Not much current there.

One leg of your hot supply runs through the SSR. The other leg runs straight thru to your heater element. Pull your voltage reading between the two on the "downstream" side of the SSR. Pull the power for your fan from between the two hot leads on the "upstream" side of the SSR. It'll see full rail voltage that way, whereas your voltmeter will see the difference between the two hot legs, from 0 to 220.

Make sense?

And you could use a barrier strip and wire terminals to attach the common points if you wanted too. It would make the assembly more tidy. I also suggest soldering such terminals to the wire too for added reliability. I don't trust simple crimp connectors alone, especially for this amount of power.
ss

[ben stiller]

My fan is mounted directly behind the heat sink and sucks air from the outside and blows across the heat sink and exits the box through some vents that were already in the box.

[ddizzle22]

Will be running 240v fan as well. Thanks for linking me to post

[rgreen2002]

You do want the fan to be an exhaust fan, so it should pull the heat OUT of the box. If you had another vent then you could set up a cross current.. but I don't think it will get so hot that you would need it.

I have the 12V DC fan wall wart variety in mine and I do wish that I had room for the 240v fan I wanted to put in. It was recommended to me (and I would agree) to install some kind of light in line with it to indicate that it is running. This helps prevent overheating of the box by signaling that the fan isn't running. If it burns out or otherwise malfunctions the light on the box would indicate no power to the light/fan.