Liebig Build

[slowswim]

I've been reading quite a bit but have not see a thread solely dedicated to a Liebig condenser build - from start to finish.

First, determine the length of the condenser. Use this calculator to find what the minimum size should be based on your power input and the temperature of your cooling water.

http://homedistiller.org/calcs/cond_calc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I'm making mine a little longer than the recommended length. Mine will be 30 inches long.

Second, I went and bought a pond pump from Harbor Freight. This is the pump:

http://www.harborfreight.com/158-GPH-Su ... 68396.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow"

Next, I stopped by the local plumbing supply store and picked up the fittings and pipe. My condenser will be 1/2" and the cooling jacket will be 3/4".

I should note, the 3/4"x1/2"x1/2" T fitting would not allow the 1/2" condenser pipe to fully slide through the entire fitting. The female inlets have slight crimps that prevent this. Thus, I had to sand down the inside of the fitting enough so the pipe slid through easily. To sand the inside down, I spray mounted some sand paper to a 3/8" dowel and just started sanding.

I've got to find my pipe cutter. Once I find it, I'll post more pics and finish the build thread.

[MichiganCornhusker]

Very nice idea for this thread. Looks like you are set to build the classic! I see some other nice copper in the pic too...
Here is something I found rooting around my local plumbing supply house. They are little 1/2" copper fittings that are made for press-on hose. They slide right into a 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/2" T, and they accept 3/8" I.D. plastic hose. I put two on my Liebig, and one on the end of my garden hose. I've been using them even without clamps, and they works great.

[ranger_ric]

It is probably quite suitable for the fine build you are working on, however the pump you chose only has a 3.6' head capacity (lift). Probably be fine, I dont know your circumstances. If you are lifting fluid from the floor though it may not be enough pump. Just sayin. Great price though. I paid about $20 for one from Home depot with a 5.6' head.
Carry on It looks good!! Love that shiny copper.

[Ferment_It]

If you have trouble sliding your 3/4" outer sleeve over the 1/2" and solid copper wire, find yourself some braided wire. Made it much easier to fit it all together. It's talked about on the hookline thread, but I had missed it.

Edited: cuz I can't type on a phone

[still_stirrin]

It is probably quite suitable for the fine build you are working on, however the pump you chose only has a 3.6' head capacity (lift). Probably be fine, I dont know your circumstances. If you are lifting fluid from the floor though it may not be enough pump. Just sayin. Great price though. I paid about $20 for one from Home depot with a 5.6' head.
Carry on It looks good!! Love that shiny copper.

slowswim, as ranger_ric said, that pump may be under powered for you.

The deadhead lift is 42" and that means that as you raise the hose outlet above the pump inlet (screen) that the water will stop flowing at, or about 42". If there is no hose on the outlet (straight from the pump, it flows about 3 gallons per minute (a good rate for a 3/4" over 1/2" Liebig). But you'll have tubing friction loss plus static height differences to consider and I'd doubt you'll get much flow through that closed loop system. So you're going to be somewhere in between with flow and lift.

Raising the reservoir up will help with the static height differential pressure, but not the drag (friction) in the hose.

Its a nice priced pump, but flowrates and discharge head may make it unusuable. Good luck.
ss

[firewater69]

I have 2 of the 200fog pumps, they are tough little pumps, but I put my water tanks (plastic totes) on a table to make sure the flow is good. Over 2 yrs & they're still going strong.

[still_stirrin]

I have 2 of the 200fog pumps, they are tough little pumps, but I put my water tanks (plastic totes) on a table to make sure the flow is good. Over 2 yrs & they're still going strong.

I assume you mean 200 GPH, right?

Those do have 26-27% more lift and 26-27% more flow. I'm sure they're more effective (for a couple of bucks more). And your secret to success was elevating the reservoir so you don't have to battle such a big static head. You probably don't even have to throttle the water flowrate either....just let the friction head loss and static head loss balance the pump's output.

slowswim, are you understanding this?
ss

[ranger_ric]

I ended up putting a Tee on the pressure side of my line before the control valve on the cold side of my Liebig. I have a line from that Tee that goes up almost to the ceiling then back down into the cooler I use. This relief line allows the pump to keep moving fluid and not be restricted when I pinch the flow way back.
Hopefully this will allow my pump to last longer.

[slowswim]

Thanks everyone. Yes, I didn't think of lift power of the pump. Thankfully I kept the receipt. I might return it tomorrow for a bigger one. I also thought the 1/4" pump tubing might be too small. I think I would be much happier with 3/8" or 1/2".

Found my pipe cutter. Am about to run out to the garage and work some more on it.

One question: I've got a 2" copper tube coming off the top of my keg into a 2" 90 degree bend then a short 2" into a 2" reducer down to 1/2". Can anyone enlighten me on about how far out I should start the 3/4" jacket? I've got a male and female copper screw fitting so I can disassemble the Liebig from the main column that will be somewhere in there. I was planning on about 12" from the 2"/1/2" reducer to the start of the Liebig jacket.

[MoonBreath]

12" may be alittle unstable, you'd have to see ..Plus, you didn't say how long the 2" arm is coming out of 2" elbow ...Maybe add a 1/2" elbow an inch or so after the 2" reducer will allow you to swing adjust your liebig to suit your needs ..Here's a picture of mine with an elbow ..Hope it helps..Nice build and a good thread ..

IMG_20150212_172341-1-3-1.jpg (11.36 KiB) Viewed 2122 times

[slowswim]

Thanks, MB. I see what you mean. I cut the rest of my pipe up and did a dry fit just now. I'm posting pictures of it but I'm already going to shorten my sections from the 2"/1/2" reducer to be as minimal as possible. I did forget to mention I have a 45 degree in there as well. See below.

[MoonBreath]

Excellent ...You can also add a tri-clamp under the elbow like the one pictured, and with a 2" riser extension, a small deplegmater (reflux condenser), and some packing, makes for a pretty effective reflux unit also ..From simple potstill to reflux, all in one...Good lookn work.

[slowswim]

More pictures.

I used 12 gauge electrical wire stripped bare for the copper wire spiral. I soldiered it ever couple of inches to the 1/2" condenser to hold it in place so it did not move when I installed the 3/4" jacket.

[still_stirrin]

Yuuuup!

[slowswim]

btw, I returned the 158 GPH pond pump and purchased:

http://www.harborfreight.com/200-GPH-Su ... 68372.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It was only a few dollars more, has better lift and has a 1/2" discharge. I'll have to swap the brass compression fitting for 1/2" ones but otherwise I should be good to go.

I am in the process of soldiering my boiler stem and the associated fittings. I will post more pics soon.

Thanks again for everyone's insight!

[googe]

Nice work.mate, good for newbies to learn . I don't know if you get these fitting where you are?, but if you cut it in half, the cut end slides straight into a 1/2" side branch on the tees. I've found it so easy to do and less parts. I know you've got the parts already, just sharing for others. Good luck!.

Cheers