question

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:23 am

I cant find the answer to this anywhere

minimum size for a liebig

looking at a 4'' x 12'' with a bunch of 1/4'' x 10'' tubes in it

if the wash is strained, should not be a problem.

I thought i saw where someone said theirs plugged up,

do not see how if strained

Post by **S-Cackalacky** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:39 am

What you're describing there sounds more like a big assed shotgun condenser. I don't know how many 1/4" pipes you can fit inside a 4" pipe, but with all the alternate routes the vapor can take, I don't think you would need to worry about one of them getting clogged. If you were actually making a liebig, there's a calculator on the Parent site to help determine the proper length for your rig.

Post by **Bushman** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 7:22 am

I would never go with 1/4" tubes, when I built my dephlagmater I used 3/4" tubes and my debate was 1/2" vs 3/4", I went with 3/4" as less holes. 10 holes is way more than you need for a shotgun condenser and 1/4" in my mind is too small. You probably won't plug all the holes but why build something that could plug even partially.

Post by **Danespirit** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:09 am

+1 Bushman

Frodo..if you want to build a Liebig instead of a shotgun condenser, take a look at the parentsite.
There is a calculator, which should give you somewhat oversized dimensions...but you would know were to start.

Post by **pfshine** » Mon Jul 20, 2015 9:30 am

For a dephlag/RC 1/4" is to small. As vapor goes up and condenses it forms drops big enough to block up coming vapor. The vapor will push the drops up above the rc causing sputtering and drainage issues. I used 1/2" on mine and it works great. For my shotty/pc I used 3/8" and works great as well probably because it going down at that point and not trying to reflux.

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:33 pm

ok guys, finally got down to business.

going with a 6'' ss shotgun with 9, 1/2'' copper tubes

tubes will be 10'' long.

we started today.

ok,,going prety smooth, till i hit a snag.

the 6'' ss duct we are using is kinda thick.
and my solidr is not taking

on the flat plate where i installed the tubes
i used stay clean liquid flux and 95/5 solider
ran smooth, stuck real nice

on the 6'' it is not wanting to stick to the ss.
is heat my problem?

i have 2 sticks of 15% sil floss, will stay brite and sil floss work?

InglisHill · Post by **InglisHill** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:35 pm

Yup, it will.

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:41 pm

thanks,,thats what i will do...it is pissen me off

i usually have more tricks than a box of cereal, new to stainless steel

on a learning curve

Post by **googe** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:45 pm

What are you building?, don't follow.

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:55 pm

A big shotgun condensor

it is in pieces right now, i will put it together after welding the top/bottom

Post by **likker liker** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 2:57 pm

Sounds like more heat is needed

Hound Dog · Post by **Hound Dog** » Wed Jul 22, 2015 5:26 pm

I soldered pretty thick SS pipe with Staybrite 8. I found that I had to use the least amount of heat that I could. Too much heat just crudded everything up. I keep dripping flux on it while heating too and it takes like a charm.

Post by **S-Cackalacky** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 5:18 am

If you think it's clean enough, clean it some more. Sneak up on it with the heat and try not to apply direct flame to the solder - let the heat from the metal melt it (not the flame). Apply the Stay Clean flux a couple of times before and after applying heat. If possible, you can also tin the two surfaces first and then do the join. If tinning works, you know that the surfaces are properly prepared for the solder.

Post by **thecroweater** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:49 am

Why the mix of copper and Stainless for your case and tube condenser, no biggy just wondering

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:50 am

i was using to much heat,,,like you said, sneak up on it

i have to make legs, this is going to look sweet !

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:03 am

thecroweater wrote:Why the mix of copper and Stainless for your case and tube condenser, no biggy just wondering

cost, i had the copper and was gifted the SS..

I would have gave a left nut for a 24'' x 6'' copper pipe.

what really tears a new one.is all the times i had my hands on 6'' and never scarfed a piece

did a job using a groove machine and brass vic loc couplings DAMN that would have looked good

Post by **S-Cackalacky** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 10:57 am

Man, that looks like one big assed shotgun. Nice.

Hound Dog · Post by **Hound Dog** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 2:35 pm

Fine job. Even if you had 6" copper, no need to waste it on a water jacket to a shotgun deflag.

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 4:35 pm

Thanks...

here it is with legs,,going to rework the legs,,add a 45 on each one..it is to wide a stance right now

the bottom section,,is at the welders..same size as top section

it will drain product straight down into a qt jar

Post by **likker liker** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:18 pm

Now that going all out

Post by **pfshine** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:23 pm

Cool but do you think you will get tired of laying on the ground to watch and change jars? Unless you're already lit and realize the ground is the best place to be.

frodo · Post by **frodo** » Fri Jul 24, 2015 6:56 pm

pfshine wrote:Cool but do you think you will get tired of laying on the ground to watch and change jars? Unless you're already lit and realize the ground is the best place to be.

OH..Yea of little faith...LOL..on the ground? no SIR! got a bad back, that would never work
I built a stand for the keg, and the condenser also has a shelf for still stuff
burner mounts under the keg,,it is not mounted,,I just finished building it

it is a double burner, with a valve to kill one burner wher cooking temp is reached

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