I'm in the process of switching from a worm to a Liebig, using a 13 gallon boiler with a 3500watt heater. There's a 2" riser coming off the top, which tees off into a 1" section then reduces to 1/2" for the liebig.
I'm using a 1/2" section for the vapor tube, and 1" for the water jacket. My question is coolant flow. How much water is usually required through the jacket? I am planning to go with a 1/4" tube from a faucet diverter (I'm on county water and its REALLY cheap, and was going to just put the output into my hot tub). I see a lot of guys using pond or aquarium pumps.
What size inlet and outlet ports do people typically use on the water jacket? I am putting in 1/2" male fittings which would accept several different brass connecters for the tubing (just for the water jacket, no brass in the alcohol portion of the system!). Right now I have the 1/4" ones, but I could put on a different size.
Also - the pipe from Lowes comes in 5 foot sections. I know that seems a bit long for a liebig. Most of the ones I have seen run between 3 and 4 feet, and I'm planning on a 4 foot length of finished vapor tube, with the water jacket being slightly shorter of course. Based on what I've read, I plan on introducing some turbulence in the vapor and the water, with a slightly crimped inner tube and a spiral wire around the outside of the vapor tube.
Can anyone see any problems with my condenser plans? Critiques?
Liebig length and cooling water questions
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- cranky
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Re: Liebig length and cooling water questions
4 feet of 1" pipe holda a lot of water and will be very heavy when it is running. As far as water flow, mine has 1/2" pipes in and out. Adjust the cooling flow until it is warm to hotish coming out. It doesn't take all that much water flow to keep the condensate cool.
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Re: Liebig length and cooling water questions
Thanks - I didn't figure it would take that much. On my three gallon boiler with my 5 gallon bucket worm, I only had to change out the water once during a run (I had an overflow pipe right at the top and I'd feed new cool water in from the bottom. The top would be really hot - somewhere around 130-140, but the bottom would stay cool enough that I never saw vapor.cranky wrote:4 feet of 1" pipe holda a lot of water and will be very heavy when it is running. As far as water flow, mine has 1/2" pipes in and out. Adjust the cooling flow until it is warm to hotish coming out. It doesn't take all that much water flow to keep the condensate cool.
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Re: Liebig length and cooling water questions
Finished my Liebig today. So happy to have that done. Definitely less headache than coiling a worm and making a frame and sealing the bucket. Lots of soldering, though.
I don't have a measuring tape handy, and I didn't use one on the liebig itself, instead I used an old technique called "TLAR" that works pretty well. I wound up with a vapor tube about 48" long, with around 40" of water jacket. 1" outside with 1/2" inner tubing, I used a c-clamp to make slight dents in the inner tube for both water and vapor turbulence. On the input side I used a 90 degree elbow and a copper union, so I can put it at any angle from near horizontal to near vertical depending on how well it works. My water jacket has 1/2" pipe couplings, right now I have 1/2" to 1/4" reducers and have plastic tubing for the water supply, but during my clean outs and sacrificial runs I'll see how well it works, and if I need more water flow.
I just need to clean the pipe a little, right now it's sort of ugly from all the soldering.
I had a bad result after I cleaned the 2" still head pipe. I got it bright and shiny and all cleaned up, wiped it down, picked it up and stored it. A couple of weeks later it started to change into a uniform darker color, but where I picked it up there was a perfect palm print and all five fingerprints! I had to polish it again. I'll know to put the polished liebig away holding it by a paper towel or something.
I don't have a measuring tape handy, and I didn't use one on the liebig itself, instead I used an old technique called "TLAR" that works pretty well. I wound up with a vapor tube about 48" long, with around 40" of water jacket. 1" outside with 1/2" inner tubing, I used a c-clamp to make slight dents in the inner tube for both water and vapor turbulence. On the input side I used a 90 degree elbow and a copper union, so I can put it at any angle from near horizontal to near vertical depending on how well it works. My water jacket has 1/2" pipe couplings, right now I have 1/2" to 1/4" reducers and have plastic tubing for the water supply, but during my clean outs and sacrificial runs I'll see how well it works, and if I need more water flow.
I just need to clean the pipe a little, right now it's sort of ugly from all the soldering.
I had a bad result after I cleaned the 2" still head pipe. I got it bright and shiny and all cleaned up, wiped it down, picked it up and stored it. A couple of weeks later it started to change into a uniform darker color, but where I picked it up there was a perfect palm print and all five fingerprints! I had to polish it again. I'll know to put the polished liebig away holding it by a paper towel or something.
- shadylane
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Re: Liebig length and cooling water questions
The 1/4" ID water plumbing will be big enough.
I don't have a problem with finger prints on my condenser.
The only time it was shiny was when I was building it.
Then I rubbed it with vegetable oil and let nature take it's course.
I don't have a problem with finger prints on my condenser.
The only time it was shiny was when I was building it.
Then I rubbed it with vegetable oil and let nature take it's course.
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Re: Liebig length and cooling water questions
I ran a test letting cold water in the bottom and checked the flow. The flow rate seems pretty decent from the 1/4" fittings, in fact from what I have read here, I think it will be more than enough. I think I'll give that a go. I should be ready for a full-up test by the end of next week. I'm just going to try water at first to check leaks, my temperature controller, and make sure the condenser works as planned.shadylane wrote:The 1/4" ID water plumbing will be big enough.
I don't have a problem with finger prints on my condenser.
The only time it was shiny was when I was building it.
Then I rubbed it with vegetable oil and let nature take it's course.
Vegetable oil? Do tell... what does that do?