FLUTE TALK

[LWTCS]

Sounds like a good solution KS.

I remember Dunder talkin bout this kind of technique a while back.

[olddog]

I think you have got that the wrong way round KS, if you put the tube in the freezer so it contracts, and heat the ferrule so it expands, then when you fit the ferrule it will contract onto the tube.


OD

[Kentucky shinner]

dont be afraid to get it red hot even... It should tap right in

[olddog]

I have seen it asked whether the 90+ ABV being achieved with Flutes is the result of multiple distillations, the answer is no. The Flute columns will produce 90+ABV from a single distillation from a standard UJSSM wash or similar, without feints being added to improve the initial ABV of the wash. This is the advantage of the Flute it will produce a high ABV from a single distillation and retain flavor at potstill speed.



OD

[Thorn_veritas]

Do you guys,think the heat shrink method will work on my 21/2 pipe ? would there be enough contraction/expansion to facilitate a beat down?

Ie if I cut a piece say 10 cm long can I freeze the pipe and heat the coupler and flog the shit out of it would that save me getting couplers stretched at the muffler shop?

Im a tight ass.i

[Kentucky shinner]

I think you have got that the wrong way round KS, if you put the tube in the freezer so it contracts, and heat the ferrule so it expands, then when you fit the ferrule it will contract onto the tube.


OD

I put the ferrule in the freezer---- Then heat the tube--- The ferrule will slide inside the tube.

[Kentucky shinner]

when you freeze the ferrule it will shrink somewhat , when you heat the copper it will grow and stretch a little. I have some ferrules coming in this week. When I get them I will mic one then freeze it and mic it so we can see the difference. I have used this procedure many times for other machine fit parts. Here is another that I just did Monday.

[Kentucky shinner]

Do you guys,think the heat shrink method will work on my 21/2 pipe ? would there be enough contraction/expansion to facilitate a beat down?

Ie if I cut a piece say 10 cm long can I freeze the pipe and heat the coupler and flog the shit out of it would that save me getting couplers stretched at the muffler shop?

Im a tight ass.i

I don't think that will work. the growth and shrink will only be a few thousandths of an inch.

[Thorn_veritas]

Thanks ks thought it wouldnt be enough. Owell. Nothing gained nothing lost.

[olddog]

I put the ferrule in the freezer---- Then heat the tube--- The ferrule will slide inside the tube.

My mistake, I thought the tube fitted inside the flange part itself,


OD

[JethroBodine]

I just did a shrink fit on my L 4 inch. The inside diameter of the copper is 3.925 and the outside of my 4 inch long weld ferrul is exactly 4 inch. When heated, the copper tube grew to 3.960 when it was just starting to glow, and then shrank back to 3.925 when cool. I machined my ferrul to 3.950, still plenty of meat for strength, about 2/3 down the shoulder. Slid right in and leaves a slight bell in the copper. Didn't get pics as I forgot the camera at home.

[Mr.Spooky]

any body got any ideas on this????? this happens to my 4" and 2". i dont wanna have to cut another one every time, because that can get expensive,,, but ths a pain in the butt to try to get these to fit right when they look like this.....
spooky

[olddog]

Probably better to use a teflon seal on the 4", I just wind a few turns of PTFE tape around the flange on my keg for the 2" connection.


OD

[Mr.Spooky]

Probably better to use a teflon seal on the 4", I just wind a few turns of PTFE tape around the flange on my keg for the 2" connection.


OD

when i do the 2" ferrul thing that has been described above, thats what ill do.... but on my 4",,, well lets just say that my 2 flange connections arent quite a perfect fit. im not sure that the teflon would seal it well. that stuff isnt as "squishie" as the cork. but, maby i could use the teflon, and rap a few raps of PTFE tape around it..... guess its just trial and error.
spooky

[Barney Fife]

Back to relief valves...

the ones at mile hi are set to 5psi, but are easily adjusted to a good hard "breath" with a pair of wrenches. they are threaded 1/8" npt, so the size is pretty easy to fit or tap. $15 could save your life or house...worth every penny.

1/8"?? An all-grain mash that is puking can plug that up in an instant; that's what the relief valve is for. If the plates get closed up because of puking some grain, the relief valve needs to be able to release the pressure buildup, but if the relief valve isn't much larger than the holes in the plates, you're not well protected. The ones I showed can be had in 1/2", 3'4", 1" and 1-1/4", locally. Ain't no grain gonna block those up, and they cost the same or less than the milehigh ones.

As to patina, my greasy old hands do a might fine job of that on their own, and in no time, my columns have acquired a rather nice patina; no sweat or stress involved. Just use it, and it'll have your genuine usage patterned right into it. Mine all have a darker patch where I place my hand in the boilup stage to check the temperature, for example. Kinda neat that they're taking-on a bit of me...

[condensificator]

Back to relief valves...

the ones at mile hi are set to 5psi, but are easily adjusted to a good hard "breath" with a pair of wrenches. they are threaded 1/8" npt, so the size is pretty easy to fit or tap. $15 could save your life or house...worth every penny.

1/8"?? An all-grain mash that is puking can plug that up in an instant; that's what the relief valve is for. If the plates get closed up because of puking some grain, the relief valve needs to be able to release the pressure buildup, but if the relief valve isn't much larger than the holes in the plates, you're not well protected. The ones I showed can be had in 1/2", 3'4", 1" and 1-1/4", locally. Ain't no grain gonna block those up, and they cost the same or less than the milehigh ones.

As to patina, my greasy old hands do a might fine job of that on their own, and in no time, my columns have acquired a rather nice patina; no sweat or stress involved. Just use it, and it'll have your genuine usage patterned right into it. Mine all have a darker patch where I place my hand in the boilup stage to check the temperature, for example. Kinda neat that they're taking-on a bit of me...

didn't think of it that way. good point for sure. i guess my "redundant" second one, isn't as redundant as i thought.
thanks for the check on that one.

and for patina, yes, i agree. i am all for natural patina...there is something about age and use that cannot be replicated any other way....but it's kind of my job to try!

[olddog]

Unless you are distilling on the grain, and I am not, there is very little need for a pressure relief valve on a Flute. When I clean up after distilling, I put the hose pipe full blast through the base of the column, the water comes out of the tube which the graham condenser attaches to, which keeps up with the input from the hosepipe. You would need a major catastrophe eg: full grain wash puking before you would have any problems.


OD

[nwvapors]

Hey guys love all the flute builds. I've watched 'em all and am excited to see they work as well as they look. One question, I've noticed you connect to the boiler at the kegs 2" tri-clover fitting and increase up to 4". Why not go straight to 4" from the keg? I have 4" stainless (a lot cheaper than copper in my neck) and matching ferrules, would I be looking at future difficulties going this route? I have access to TIG and this may be an option for me if it will be a functioning rig. Thanks again you guys have moved this "hobby" into new realms.

NWV

[olddog]

If you have a TIG, just weld a 4"fitting to your keg, the only reason a reducer is used, is to be able to fit the standard keg fitting.


OD

[rubber duck]

any body got any ideas on this????? this happens to my 4" and 2". i dont wanna have to cut another one every time, because that can get expensive,,, but ths a pain in the butt to try to get these to fit right when they look like this.....
spooky

The solution to that problem is to place the seals between two heavy boards immediately after you remove them from the still, while they're hot. That's how I do it and I get a lot of use out of one seal, and I'm using a 6in.

[Barney Fife]

Unless you are distilling on the grain, and I am not, there is very little need for a pressure relief valve on a Flute.

I agree, but adding one isn't hard, or expensive, and would be a great safety feature on any column, even the smaller pot stills. Shows our sincere desire to approach this hobby safely, and promote safety.

Placing the relief valve on the boiler is a great idea, too, and then we have a relief valve for any column or head we use with that boiler.

[Mr.Spooky]

any body got any ideas on this????? this happens to my 4" and 2". i dont wanna have to cut another one every time, because that can get expensive,,, but ths a pain in the butt to try to get these to fit right when they look like this.....
spooky

Balsa wood gasket

does this not crack or dry out and get brittle??? otherwise, this would be a cheep fix!!!!
they sell it by the sheets at the hobby shop.
spooky

[nwvapors]

If you have a TIG, just weld a 4"fitting to your keg, the only reason a reducer is used, is to be able to fit the standard keg fitting.


OD

Thanks OD I was just curious. I have watched your progress for about a year now and all I can say is thanks I've been inspired much to the chagrin of my wife and bank account.

Whatcha doing?????

Hey RC, just might join the flute club. This going to be the weirdest marching band of all time. I am thinkin' 4" stainless column, 4 copper plates with a 4" tri-clovered copper deflag. It's just kinda bouncing around and tormenting my head right now, we'll see

[nwvapors]

any body got any ideas on this????? this happens to my 4" and 2". i dont wanna have to cut another one every time, because that can get expensive,,, but ths a pain in the butt to try to get these to fit right when they look like this.....
spooky

Hey Spook teflon is the way to go, I've been able to score the 2" for $5.95 for three on E-bay with free shipping and that was a buy it now price

[nwvapors]

Hey stateside flute builders I found these on the Grainger site. They look like almost ready made sight glasses. They are made of wrot copper and are an inch and a half, not too pricey either.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/MUELLE ... Pid=search" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

NWV

Just checked my own link and it failed. Search for 1 1/2" copper trap adapter on the Grainger sight. They will be in the plumbing section under copper fittings. Around $12.00

[Kentucky shinner]

you may be on to something there freind.. I think I will order 4 and check it out. Thanks so much for taking the time to post this..
KS

[olddog]

I can't see where you would fit the glass with that fitting.


OD

[Kentucky shinner]

I am wondering if there is a shoulder in where the plastic ferrulle is. If so you could discard the plastic ferulle and maybe there is a shoulder in there that will support the glass. I hate to order just one becuase they kill ya on shipping. I may just wait until I need some other things from there and order 1 then to check it out.

[Kentucky shinner]

Hey thanks RC I think you just made up my mind. I was afraid there may not be enough. Thanks

[Kentucky shinner]

Pics of what?