FLUTE TALK

[MadsF]

Theres a guy that sells pyrex sightglasses on ebay right now, quite cheap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320834917338?_t ... 500wt_1169" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
They are 2-1/4" x 1/4"

Just to clarify, its not my ebay-listing, but its a good deal

[thepatchworkdoll]

Hi All Flute Owners
Whats wattage is everyone running their Flutes at. Whats the best wattage for eqilibrating. Whats the average wattage during collection of hearts. I appreciate all Flutes are slightly different but there must be an approximate sweet spot as far as wattage goes. Any info or chat on this topic will be very much appreciated.
Regards
Patch

[bentstick]

I run a 5 plate perferated column, not sure on watts exactly, but here is my runs. I use a MK5500 controler hooked up to 220v, on 4500 watt low density element, the meter on the controler is in amps, I bring it to temp in stages, up to 18.5 amps maxed out(per meter), once plates are full I back it down to about 16 amps(per meter), just so the plates work well without flooding, run for 1/2 hr in reflux, cut reflux, untill I start getting product. My controler seems pretty touchy but it stays between 16 and 17amps untill tails,then balls out for about 10 min. cranked all the way up. Hope this helps. This seems to be the case with my runs of SF and UJSSM

[LWTCS]

Seems like 2000-2400 is the range
edit
maybe my outfit shouldn't be included?

[bentstick]

Seems like 2000-2400 is the range
edit
maybe my outfit shouldn't be included?

Why is that LWTCS ?

[Mashy]

I use a 5500 watt element on a 5 plate flute and 26 gallon boiler. Normal charge is about 12-15 gallons. Start at about 40% until sides are warm then crank up 10% every 15 minutes or so. I stop at 85% or so because I'm afraid of scorching. When the heat reaches the bottom of the top plate I turn down to 70% and do my whole run at this level.

[LWTCS]

Why is that LWTCS ?

Cause my liquid volumes are so different that in this instance its not really the same,,,if you see my meaning.

I can piss a a nice tooth pic stream with 1750 when the rig is fully loaded and self filled.

[bentstick]

Yes that is right Thumber tower or vice versa, correct?

[freespirited]

Sorry to cut in. Does a flute with say 8 plates make a nuetral run off any faster than a flute with 4 plates? Same diameter of course. Just wondering if more plates means less reflux to get the same ABV. I would assume that would mean a faster take off rate if the deflag was not having to reflux as much liquid.

[Capt_Bobby]

I made it to page 21 before I got my head wrapped around the operation of a flute and had an idea that, I believe, merited asking. If one were to add an external downcomer say 1/4 inch above the top plate back down to the bottom plate with a gate valve, would this make a 4 plate behave like a 6 or an 8 plate under the right circumstances? Many early in this thread wanted modular plates for rum or neutral high test purposes.

[KellyStewart]

I was wanting to know how much pressure the keg is under with a column or reflux style still. What if a seal blows out what would happen? Is it like a pressure cooker if the cap comes off would it hit the ceiling and spray liquid?

[freespirited]

There is no pressure or it will go BOOM!

[just-a-sip]

I was wanting to know how much pressure the keg is under with a column or reflux style still. What if a seal blows out what would happen? Is it like a pressure cooker if the cap comes off would it hit the ceiling and spray liquid?

like mentioned above there should be no pressure in your rig. you should always have a good opening to the atmosphere. in the flute world the path through the condensers (2) and out the flute is never blocked and allows everything that could build pressure flow free.
in other rigs the same principle is true. if you close off the take off valve in a boka you would theoretically build pressure, that's why we always ensure the top is open to the atmosphere.

hope that helps explain things

[Dan Call]

Just a vote of confidence here. I keep two browsers open in addition to the usual, one reading every post on this thread, and one for other threads on this site. As long as 6 years ago, I was bugging Ian Smiley in emails to give the world a design like this based in his vast commercial distillery experience and would have jumped on it. As it was, and appropriately so, I cut my teeth on the Smiley fractioning design outlined in his book. Now I'm gearing up for this build.

The only thing I ask, even plea, is....a few PDF's with detailed graphics, explanations, and dimensions as could be gotten for easy reference. I'm building a directory on the local drive, but it would be great to have a document that begins and the beginning and goes through the stages. It looks like that's on the way anyway at some point.

While I'm at it. I passed this thread by 20 times before realizing it was the holy grail of still designs, a commercial collumn for hobby use. The "flute" thing totally through me off. I was always looking for "plated collumn" or something like that, until finally I clicked and then understood what flute meant. This design has apparently enthralled most of us.

Thanks very very much to those that have laid this path, filled in the blanks, and shown us the results. Salute!! I always knew that what we were making here would blow away any of these folks selling stills on the web and ebay. And I'm please to say too that my Pint's highly useful temp control unit will carry over nicely to the flute design as I will be running my 42 gallon water heater boiler for it. Just being able to control the temp with that kit from Pint almost single-handedly turned around the accuracy of my runs.

Sorry to ramble....but I love this place.

[NcHooch]

I made it to page 21 before I got my head wrapped around the operation of a flute and had an idea that, I believe, merited asking. If one were to add an external downcomer say 1/4 inch above the top plate back down to the bottom plate with a gate valve, would this make a 4 plate behave like a 6 or an 8 plate under the right circumstances? Many early in this thread wanted modular plates for rum or neutral high test purposes.

I don't think I would sign up on that design , reason being, you've already expended energy and time to refine the distilate to where it is on the top plate ....I cant think of a reason why I'd wanna send it back down to the bottom plate to be mixed with unrefined, low-proof and then wait for it to be refined once again.

Counter productive as far as I can see , and I cant imagine how like a 6 or 8 plate under any circumstances.

[Prairiepiss]

I made it to page 21 before I got my head wrapped around the operation of a flute and had an idea that, I believe, merited asking. If one were to add an external downcomer say 1/4 inch above the top plate back down to the bottom plate with a gate valve, would this make a 4 plate behave like a 6 or an 8 plate under the right circumstances? Many early in this thread wanted modular plates for rum or neutral high test purposes.

I don't think I would sign up on that design , reason being, you've already expended energy and time to refine the distilate to where it is on the top plate ....I cant think of a reason why I'd wanna send it back down to the bottom plate to be mixed with unrefined, low-proof and then wait for it to be refined once again.

Counter productive as far as I can see , and I cant imagine how like a 6 or 8 plate under any circumstances.

Actually mashrookie has done it. And ran experiments on sexy girl with it. Do a search around and you can find it. You mite look at his outcome before you completely rule it out.

[Padraig]

The answer may be in this thread (probably is) - I'm reading it as fast as I can, but I want to *read* it rather than skim. Anyway, I hope you'll forgive a question that I need answered before I can go any further: What's the advantage to having a larger diameter column? (Specifically I'm looking at 3" vs. 4"). I'm thinking keg pot, so the opening will only be 2", like most here.
-P

[SHINER26]

so after getting some runs under my belt im starting a new flute build soon. got a pcs of 4 inch t-304 ss in goin to use and copper for the rest. would a 48 inch pcs be good for a 5 or 6 plate?

[NcHooch]

you prolly only need 24" for a 5-plate.

[SHINER26]

might just have to add 2 more plates i can take in or out.

[LWTCS]

Not including what you may choose to do for your dephlegmater.

[SHINER26]

now for the sight glass i seen some where and i cant find it now. copper fittings for sink drain that was a sweat fitting that had a brass nut on it. anyone know where that happens to be?

[bentstick]

My "flute" is 39" total from fitting on keg to top of elbows above reflux condenser, main body is 24" between fittings, so main tube is about 28" long, reflux condenser is 7 1/2" ( a little large) but just takes a little more time for adjustments. Mine is also 5 plate.

[NcHooch]

now for the sight glass i seen some where and i cant find it now. copper fittings for sink drain that was a sweat fitting that had a brass nut on it. anyone know where that happens to be?

Shiner,
I recon you're talkin about the Grainger 5UGA9 Copper Trap Adapter, Copper to Slip, 1-1/2 In.
...works good... you might be able to get 1.75" x .187" glass discs there too ...if not, I know Mcmaster-Carr has the glass.

Hope that helps

[NcHooch]

My "flute" is 39" total from fitting on keg to top of elbows above reflux condenser, main body is 24" between fittings, so main tube is about 28" long, reflux condenser is 7 1/2" ( a little large) but just takes a little more time for adjustments. Mine is also 5 plate.

I think as a general rule of thumb for material length, you need 4" x the number of plates you're planning, + and extra 4" ....this is NOT countin the dephleg. But you only need 4" for a shotgun dephleg .

that's pretty much how my build went ...course there's no rules, so you can do it your own way if you got a lil extra pipe.

[SHINER26]

thanks shiner. thats them.

now for the sight glass i seen some where and i cant find it now. copper fittings for sink drain that was a sweat fitting that had a brass nut on it. anyone know where that happens to be?

Shiner,
I recon you're talkin about the Grainger 5UGA9 Copper Trap Adapter, Copper to Slip, 1-1/2 In.
...works good... you might be able to get 1.75" x .187" glass discs there too ...if not, I know Mcmaster-Carr has the glass.

Hope that helps

[Padraig]

So, I've decided to build a flute as a first still. I'm pretty confident in my building ability, and I have a complete shop with mill and lathe at my disposal. Most importantly, I've finally finished reading this entire thread, and the threads that were referenced in it! I've seen a lot of opinions, and updates, I'd like to describe what I'm thinking about and get a bit of feedback before proceeding. This is my plan, and the questions I have about it:

- A 4" column with 4 plates, 4.75" apart. perforated plates 1/16" holes on a 1/4" grid.

- 1/2" downcomers into 3/4" cups. Each downcomer sticking 3/4" above the plate it comes down from.

- 2" adapter to 7.5 gallon sanky keg.

- Shotgun dephelgwermanawermater with 6-8 1/2" pipes - is shotgun the best choice if cost and construction work are not an issue?

- Shotgun product condenser - probably 5 1/2" pipes in a 2" sleeve. 12" long?

I plan on coming off the dephlawhatsit with a 4" to 2" reducer and using 2" elbows to make the 180 to the product condensor - sound good?
I haven't figured out windows yet, but I think I'd like 2", and may just make them from scratch.

I've looked at OldDogs MkII design, but like the original a bit better and it's hard to argue with the results reported so I'm leaning that way.

Thanks to OldDog for blazing the trail, and to many others for pitching in along the way - I'm trying not to waste any of the great experience that exists here. And thanks for answering my questions. Let me know if this should be a seperate thread.

[emptyglass]

I think you'll get more approprite feedback in a seperate thread. There is already enough stuff to read in this thread. It sounds on the money, by the way.

[freespirited]

Padraig only problem I see is you downcomer diameter. Should be at least 1" if not 1-1/4".

Also anyone needing sightglasses I can get them in 1.5" with 3/16 glass for almost the same price as Grainger has on just the trap adapter itself. I will put it in the classifieds If the bigwigs here allow it.

[Prairiepiss]

Padraig only problem I see is you downcomer diameter. Should be at least 1" if not 1-1/4".

That's a little big don't you think? 3/4" would ne a good size.