FLUTE TALK

[mash rookie]

Does the temperature and amount of reflux returning to the top plate have any effect on plate function? Like too cold, too much returning distillate might deactivate the top plate?

Not sure what you are asking there VT. When running a high reflux ratio the top plate will be fuller than lower plates but will be returning distillate through the down comer to plates below while vapor continues up causing a boil action at the top plate.
The whole system functions this way as the fractions try to find their spot in the column during equilibrium phase. Once equilibrium is established take off should be slow enough as to not disturb. The difficulty with a plated unit is that although you can reflux enough to raise ABV, there are typically not enough plates to truly separate alcohol fractions well.

MR

[Vapour trails]

Ok I suppose what I am asking is; Can the reflux be to cool in temperature? I understand that the temps at the boiler are higher and as u go up the column the temps reduce. Just wondering if too much cool reflux returning to the plates could be detrimental?

[Prairiepiss]

Ok I suppose what I am asking is; Can the reflux be to cool in temperature? I understand that the temps at the boiler are higher and as u go up the column the temps reduce. Just wondering if too much cool reflux returning to the plates could be detrimental?

I guess you could say yes this could happen. But. You would never have this problem. Because in order to take off product with a cm still. The reflux cooling is adjusted down to the point that vapors can bypass the dephlegmater. So the reflux in turn will warm up to the needed temps. So the only time you mite. Mite se this problem would be under 100% reflux with a dephlegmater that is way over sized. And or the cooling water is way to cold. And the problem would go away as soon as you adjusted the coolant flow to take off product.

A LM or VM still would be a completely different story. That would be best discussed in another thread.

[Uisge_a_Ghlinne]

Just out of interest, what kind of production would you expect out of a 6 inch flute?

[NcHooch]

I'm pretty sure you could easily get a gallon/hour ...but a column
That large would be paired with a boiler beyond hobby size, if you know what I mean

[mash rookie]

Just out of interest, what kind of production would you expect out of a 6 inch flute?

A six inch will produce two gallons an hour. I have one test run under my belt with a six inch unit. With a 15 gallon keg boiler it was over before it began. It takes a lot of power. I had to use a propane burner because my 5500 W electric wouldn’t drive it. I put it away and continue testing with a four inch.

[thecroweater]

Just out of interest, what kind of production would you expect out of a 6 inch flute?

A six inch will produce two gallons an hour. I have one test run under my belt with a six inch unit. With a 15 gallon keg boiler it was over before it began. It takes a lot of power. I had to use a propane burner because my 5500 W electric wouldn’t drive it. I put it away and continue testing with a four inch.

looking at putting one of these together shortly , 4 perf plates 6" diameter : was yours a perf plate . I was thinking I might have to throw that gas at it until the plates loaded and then be able to back it off, does worry me reading that you discontinued using it

[Vapour trails]

what if the length of the column above the dephleg was extended higher before the 180 degree bend so that the bottom of the final condenser was set above the location of the top plate in the column? could the product take off at the the bottom of the final condenser be split, running all or part of the product back into the column above the top plate for neutral products?

or what about running the product to the bottom plate?

[mash rookie]

Crow, my six inch is packed with one window and one top plate. I ran it with my drop in four inch dephlag and condenser tree. I was not able to achieve full reflux or know vapor speeds using gas so it has been set aside. It will be an eight plate column for the large boiler I am building. I advise that you build a large boiler to take advantage of the six inch. I am still doing a lot of testing. Knowing vapor speeds is still important for awhile. The four inch will empty a keg in under two hours anyway. The glass column provides visual info.

Freespirited, my math shows that you need at least 9KW to run six inch. I am pleased to hear that he runs below 100%. Do you know how many watts he runs at?

[harley03]

This is a Sieve Plate with PERFORMANC .....


It must be 100% tightly between the plate and the column wall, otherwise the FIRST plate will not work as it shold( it,s empty), and the other does not work 100% either ....

1,5-2,0mm thickness of plate is best becouse if you have thicker plate it take to much time to heat it upp.....Copperplate is best for heating transfer and offcourse produkt kvalite .... And in copper you "must" shall stansed all this small hole, it,s best solution....

I have tried to laser drilled 1.5 mm copper plate with a 1.5 mm hole in 4mm square pattern and copper boiling ....
I have tried to water drill, it was not good either ...
Punching was the only thing that worked, but the plate was about 2-3mm lower in the middle and then it was an 8 "plate, but it was no problem to direct it so it was completely flat ...

Now this firm that punched all my plate to me also got a special matrix that goes up from below and from above, and then the copper shall NOT grow ... according to them ...

We'll see because I'm a bit interested in producing a 10 "in size Sieve plates also, a like to built.... But then a go for 2mm kopperplate... note 1,5 that a have in 8". for 4" 1,5mm is perfect-optimal a think...


1.5 to 1.6 mm hole is the best in small columns below-smaller than 12 ", and 8% of the WET PLATE surface, the total mm3 of all small holes= correspond shall be 8% of column mm3 - downcomer becouse downcomer area it issnt a WET surface.....
It also works between 5-10% mm3, but 8%mm3 is OPTIMAL, and 12-17mm it,s a good liquid height, so stilldragons 17mm height down comers is okey to use... and you gets more plate area.... = better speed.... and the need in most cases just 1pc, for it can drain about 5 liters per minute....
12mm for vodka and 17mm for whisky...

Spread out the holes so NO distance is greater than it is between the holes so really ENTIRE plate surface works as it should ...This is best for good-optimum
performance
I think That 4 to 4.2 mm square should be 8% mm3, it depends on the size of the return pipe or downcomern and if it is 1.5 mm or 1.6 mm hole.

A properly designed Sieve plate-should be about 10-20% more efficient per hour than same size in bubbelcaps.( And lots ceaper and more easy to built)
Especially in the small sizes of the column, then it can distinguish even more ..., then disagree about what they learned that transfers most flavor, but this must each decide themselves ....

Take a look and se what a 10pc of sieve plate in 6" and with 11 000watt power can produce... While you are watching so take a good handle on how they have solved the water control, this is a very simple and inexpensive solution, which I will copy...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVpcSRje ... e=youtu.be" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Cheers

[harley03]

Here you have a easy calculateprogram

http://www.countcalculate.com/geometry/volume-cylinder" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Cheers

[harley03]

Merru Crismas to you all

I have a little time over so a calculate a little and this a posted on swedish Bryggforum, so a desided to translated and posted it here allso..

st is same as pc...

So here I had constructed a 4 "Sieve plate that fits into a 108mm 4" pipe of Swedish copper

A 4 "copper tube has an internal dimension of 104.0 mm = The volume is 33 979.47 cubic millimeter (mm3)

1st Downkomers has external dimensions of 22mm at the top of the plate is = volume of 1 520.53 cubic millimeter (mm3)

We shall reduce 33 979.47 1 520.53 to obtain the wet surface = 32458.94 mm3

32 458.94 mm3 is the wet surface and where we will have holes corresponding to 8% of the = 2596.71

1st 1.5 mm hole has a mm3 is = Volume is 7.07 Cubic Millimeter (mm3) / 2596.71 = 367.28 x 1.5 mm hole is equal to 8% of the wet surface.

This 367st 1.5 mm hole must be spread out evenly on a round plate is 103mm in circumference and has a 16mm hole in the center of Stillwater Dragons down comers-return. Note do not forget to screw in the back before soldering, for then it will be hard- crowded.

No HOLES shold be closer to the edges than about 5mm (for which the copper solder to make room) and not closer to the 16mm large center hole than 8mm for the cup under the plate goes out about 6mm on each side - around the center hole.

Of course, the holes are placed so that there is so similar pattern relative distance between them as possible and spread out in the above dimensions for best effect ... but this is your problem

4 "copper pipe 104mm inside and 1.5 mm hole is optimal and should be-to work for up to 20-25pcs sieve plates.

Fixed 2mm hole works up to about 10st sieve plates also but is not optimal, but it works ..... And the size of the hole has Hillbilly stills in their 4 "flutes although they are only about 6.75% of the wet surface ..... and have regular returns with cup, threaded rod, copper pipe in the middle so that takes more plate surface in claims = less power ...and less hole...

Use 3pcs 4 "nails and pick them out by sightglasshole when you have soldered the plate so this works Optimal and looks relly clean and nicely, just make sure the plates are pretty flat ... in wave then ..

1.5 mm holes = 367st
1.6 mm holes = 322st
Dont go for bigger hole than 1,6mm please...
1.7 mm holes = 285st
1.8 mm holes = 255st
1.9 mmhål = 228st
2.0 mm holes = 206st


1.5 mm holes = Volume is 7.07 Cubic Millimeter (mm3)
1.6 mm hole = volume is 8.04 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.7 mm hole = volume is 9.08 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.8 mm hole = volume is 10.18 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.9 mm holes = Volume is 11:34 cubic millimeter (mm3)
2.0 mm holes = Volume is 12:57 cubic millimeter (mm3)

All of this is estimated at 8%, but it can be between 5-10%, but 8% and 1,5mm hole shall be optimum and should require approximately 3500-4000watt at runtime and 5500 watts of heating and rapid filling of plates.

Now I can have miscalculated, so everyone can make their own calculations

Yes, I have deliberately chosen to place downcomersen in the middle to get the best access possible when to copper solder plate inside and heat from the outside of this little column.
I personally do not think this is so important in this little 4 "colon and 8% / 1.5 mm hole then teach it as a washing machine inside the sight glass all the time so the drops from return could end up just anywhere no matter where downcomers is .. .

So who will be the first to make this 4" Super Sieve plate

I personally will soon build a 10 'with 1.5 mm holes and 8% hole surface and use 2-3pc SD down comer, nowe we talking gallons-liter per our ...
and is 6.3 times greater than the plate is in 4 'so it should both require 6.3 times as much power as to provide 6.3 times as much alcohol per hour ..
My 8" in sieve plate is only 4 time bigger than a 4" in plate, so this am looking forewards to build... A cant help it, i like to build and se were is the limit

Cheers

[Big Stogie]

I just read this whole thread, I am exhausted. I am going to build a 3" Flute since I fell into the tube. 4 plates should work for me, I will use 1/6" holes but can't seem to get comfortable with how many to drill or what size downcomers to use? I am thinking about 90 holes? 1/2" or 3/8" downcomers? any feed back or 3" experience?
Thanks,
B.S.

[Pipe Rat]

Stogie I remember NCHooch had a good build thread for a 3" flute. There are others too.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 17&t=22981

[singlemaltluv]

Yes. You need good control on your dephlag coolant flow. Every still reads a little different head temp. I measure temp above the dephlag on all my stills. It is relevant only to repeat your successes.

The temp of your exit coolant will tell you more when running. On a flute with 50% dephlag flow increase power until plates are full but not flooded. Turn down dephlag until exit water is warm to the touch. No heart alcohol should pass. A slight amount of heads if you are set perfectly. You are now at 100% reflux. After waiting 30 minutes for your column to find equilibrium, slowly turn down dephlag until exit water is hot to the touch with a modest flow. 165 degrees or so. Your plates should remain full as you take off. If not, increase coolant flow until they start to load again then increase power until take off begins. The idea is to use enough power plus enough reflux coolant to knock it down and be able to take off without disturbing plate level. Reflux Ratio.

For me, Boiler temp and reflux condenser coolant exit temp are my biggest tools when working on different designs.

@ mash rookie: have you tried using this technique to try to get a whiskey that come out to the still at maybe 75% down to about 65% instead of the low 90% so that you could have something that was aging strength. I know that it is said that a flute produce a flavored product even at 95% but I would think you would lose some of that flavor when you dilute to drinking strength which would be defeating the purpose. What are some ways you guys run your flutes that would get you to a product that is close to aging strength or is this is only reachable with a pot still only.

[Prairiepiss]

Fewer plates.
Less dephlegmater cooling.
More heat input.
Can all decrease the ABV coming out. But column equilibrium can have a fine line.

[mash rookie]

You can typically run a flute down to about 85% without collapsing equilibrium. Any faster and you drop ABV dramatically as you are just a post still on its first pass. Flutes smear so badly (like a pot still) that 85% is a very heavy flavored product.

I know that it is said that a flute produce a flavored product

" The shocking thing is not that they make full flavor its that at 92% you can not make a neutral. Even after dilution they carry too much tails sometimes. They are a one pass whiskey machine.

You snuck in ther on me PP

[Prairiepiss]

Sory MR.

I will add. Each still will be a little different on where it can be ran and equilibrium can be maintained. Influenced by the ambient temps and what the still is charged with also.

Plate design will also have an influence in flavor profile and maintaining equilibrium.

So if you want to have a certain outcome. I would design your plated still around that outcome. Lots of little tweeks can make the difference. If you understand what all the little tweeks will contribute.

If your wanting a lower ABV full flavor product. I would look at maybe a 3 plate. Using perforated plates with a shallow liquid depth. Others opinions mite be different on this.

Or maybe a full modular type build. So that you can add or remove plates. And change plate design if so desired. This would allow you to fully tweek the still to your needs.

Or you could just build one and work from there.

[singlemaltluv]

@ mash rookie: I will give this a try on my next run and see what I get, 85% is not to far off from 65% and shouldn't require much to bring it down to aging strength.
@ Mr P.: Already have the flute a 4 inch 4 perforated plates design so I have to go with what I have.
I've started many times reading this thread but have gotten side tracked each time when I come upon something that I didn't understand then it is off research that topic (damn ADD) . What I've read so far is very educational but some of the technical jargon can be a little overwhelming at times. It would be neat to have a thread with members describing how they run their flute and what kind of results that they get . Either way great thread and many props to your all .

[ThrownOlive]

Here you go SingleMalt. How to Run your Flute: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 17&t=19889

[singlemaltluv]

Here you go SingleMalt. How to Run your Flute: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 17&t=19889

Thanks ThrownOlive, I remember reading this thread once now that you pointed it out again and remember thinking to myself that it was amazing from the lack to posts. At that time it was only about 2 months old and kenfyoozed post was the only one.

[maddmatt]

Merru Crismas to you all

I have a little time over so a calculate a little and this a posted on swedish Bryggforum, so a desided to translated and posted it here allso..

st is same as pc...

So here I had constructed a 4 "Sieve plate that fits into a 108mm 4" pipe of Swedish copper

A 4 "copper tube has an internal dimension of 104.0 mm = The volume is 33 979.47 cubic millimeter (mm3)

1st Downkomers has external dimensions of 22mm at the top of the plate is = volume of 1 520.53 cubic millimeter (mm3)

We shall reduce 33 979.47 1 520.53 to obtain the wet surface = 32458.94 mm3

32 458.94 mm3 is the wet surface and where we will have holes corresponding to 8% of the = 2596.71

1st 1.5 mm hole has a mm3 is = Volume is 7.07 Cubic Millimeter (mm3) / 2596.71 = 367.28 x 1.5 mm hole is equal to 8% of the wet surface.

This 367st 1.5 mm hole must be spread out evenly on a round plate is 103mm in circumference and has a 16mm hole in the center of Stillwater Dragons down comers-return. Note do not forget to screw in the back before soldering, for then it will be hard- crowded.

No HOLES shold be closer to the edges than about 5mm (for which the copper solder to make room) and not closer to the 16mm large center hole than 8mm for the cup under the plate goes out about 6mm on each side - around the center hole.

Of course, the holes are placed so that there is so similar pattern relative distance between them as possible and spread out in the above dimensions for best effect ... but this is your problem

4 "copper pipe 104mm inside and 1.5 mm hole is optimal and should be-to work for up to 20-25pcs sieve plates.

Fixed 2mm hole works up to about 10st sieve plates also but is not optimal, but it works ..... And the size of the hole has Hillbilly stills in their 4 "flutes although they are only about 6.75% of the wet surface ..... and have regular returns with cup, threaded rod, copper pipe in the middle so that takes more plate surface in claims = less power ...and less hole...

Use 3pcs 4 "nails and pick them out by sightglasshole when you have soldered the plate so this works Optimal and looks relly clean and nicely, just make sure the plates are pretty flat ... in wave then ..

1.5 mm holes = 367st
1.6 mm holes = 322st
Dont go for bigger hole than 1,6mm please...
1.7 mm holes = 285st
1.8 mm holes = 255st
1.9 mmhål = 228st
2.0 mm holes = 206st


1.5 mm holes = Volume is 7.07 Cubic Millimeter (mm3)
1.6 mm hole = volume is 8.04 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.7 mm hole = volume is 9.08 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.8 mm hole = volume is 10.18 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.9 mm holes = Volume is 11:34 cubic millimeter (mm3)
2.0 mm holes = Volume is 12:57 cubic millimeter (mm3)

All of this is estimated at 8%, but it can be between 5-10%, but 8% and 1,5mm hole shall be optimum and should require approximately 3500-4000watt at runtime and 5500 watts of heating and rapid filling of plates.

Now I can have miscalculated, so everyone can make their own calculations

Yes, I have deliberately chosen to place downcomersen in the middle to get the best access possible when to copper solder plate inside and heat from the outside of this little column.
I personally do not think this is so important in this little 4 "colon and 8% / 1.5 mm hole then teach it as a washing machine inside the sight glass all the time so the drops from return could end up just anywhere no matter where downcomers is .. .

So who will be the first to make this 4" Super Sieve plate

I personally will soon build a 10 'with 1.5 mm holes and 8% hole surface and use 2-3pc SD down comer, nowe we talking gallons-liter per our ...
and is 6.3 times greater than the plate is in 4 'so it should both require 6.3 times as much power as to provide 6.3 times as much alcohol per hour ..
My 8" in sieve plate is only 4 time bigger than a 4" in plate, so this am looking forewards to build... A cant help it, i like to build and se were is the limit

Cheers

I'm trying to follow this. So you're saying optimum is 367 of the 1/16" holes? I can't imagine how the hell anyone would fit that many holes in a 4" plate. Also what is this?

Use 3pcs 4 "nails and pick them out by sightglasshole when you have soldered the plate so this works Optimal and looks relly clean and nicely, just make sure the plates are pretty flat ... in wave then ..

I don't know what this means exactly. Could you clarify?

[mash rookie]

I am not going to make the effort to double check his math. It does not look correct.

Typically I have 160 +/– 1/16” holes in a four inch plate. I use a 1/4" OC pattern. You can go more but its not necessary. That gets you in the ball park for desired vapor speed.

He uses four inch nails to hold the plate in place for soldering than removes them through the sight glass.
You dont have to solder your plates in. A fit tighter than 1/16”and everything will function fine. Vapor takes the path of least resistance.

[Sackett]

Been lorkin around for several years,,wantin to build a still,,but not quite sure what i wanted to build.Got to readin 'bout these flutes,, an that did it for me.(Boy) this flute thread sure is some read,lol.
Started lookin stuff to use,,backed into a nice full sized keg,,guy Said "I heard u wuz lookin one of these"for free.When i asked how much he wanted for it,, he replied"I'll see ya sometime". Found pipe for colum today,,a 30 inch piece of 3 in,,and a 6 in piece of 3 in for deflag,,,2 3 x 2 reducers and a 3 in couplin for $100.Boy, big copper sure is hard to find.
None of the scrap yards around here will sell to the public,,had to get new ,,OUCH!!!Most places wouldnt sell me less than 5ft,,and at a higher price per foot,, so am moderately happy.
Here's the plan,,see how far off I am.Come out of the keg with 2in triclover fitting .hope can use one of the 3 x 2 reducers direct coupled to the keg.Then 4 perforated plates with 1/2 in downcomers to the straight coupling. The deflag will sit in top of coupling,with as many 1/2 in tubes as i can fit in there as will only be 6 in long.Out of that with other reducer,,over to a 2in x however long shotgun condenser, and product output.Oh shoot almost forgot,,will put sight glasses in to,,gotta have those
Ok guys there you have it,,dont rip into me too hard,, remember I'm kinda new to building,lol

[harley03]

Merru Crismas to you all

I have a little time over so a calculate a little and this a posted on swedish Bryggforum, so a desided to translated and posted it here allso..

st is same as pc...

So here I had constructed a 4 "Sieve plate that fits into a 108mm 4" pipe of Swedish copper

A 4 "copper tube has an internal dimension of 104.0 mm = The volume is 33 979.47 cubic millimeter (mm3)

1st Downkomers has external dimensions of 22mm at the top of the plate is = volume of 1 520.53 cubic millimeter (mm3)

We shall reduce 33 979.47 1 520.53 to obtain the wet surface = 32458.94 mm3

32 458.94 mm3 is the wet surface and where we will have holes corresponding to 8% of the = 2596.71

1st 1.5 mm hole has a mm3 is = Volume is 7.07 Cubic Millimeter (mm3) / 2596.71 = 367.28 x 1.5 mm hole is equal to 8% of the wet surface.

This 367st 1.5 mm hole must be spread out evenly on a round plate is 103mm in circumference and has a 16mm hole in the center of Stillwater Dragons down comers-return. Note do not forget to screw in the back before soldering, for then it will be hard- crowded.

No HOLES shold be closer to the edges than about 5mm (for which the copper solder to make room) and not closer to the 16mm large center hole than 8mm for the cup under the plate goes out about 6mm on each side - around the center hole.

Of course, the holes are placed so that there is so similar pattern relative distance between them as possible and spread out in the above dimensions for best effect ... but this is your problem

4 "copper pipe 104mm inside and 1.5 mm hole is optimal and should be-to work for up to 20-25pcs sieve plates.

Fixed 2mm hole works up to about 10st sieve plates also but is not optimal, but it works ..... And the size of the hole has Hillbilly stills in their 4 "flutes although they are only about 6.75% of the wet surface ..... and have regular returns with cup, threaded rod, copper pipe in the middle so that takes more plate surface in claims = less power ...and less hole...

Use 3pcs 4 "nails and pick them out by sightglasshole when you have soldered the plate so this works Optimal and looks relly clean and nicely, just make sure the plates are pretty flat ... in wave then ..

1.5 mm holes = 367st
1.6 mm holes = 322st
Dont go for bigger hole than 1,6mm please...
1.7 mm holes = 285st
1.8 mm holes = 255st
1.9 mmhål = 228st
2.0 mm holes = 206st


1.5 mm holes = Volume is 7.07 Cubic Millimeter (mm3)
1.6 mm hole = volume is 8.04 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.7 mm hole = volume is 9.08 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.8 mm hole = volume is 10.18 cubic millimeter (mm3)
1.9 mm holes = Volume is 11:34 cubic millimeter (mm3)
2.0 mm holes = Volume is 12:57 cubic millimeter (mm3)

All of this is estimated at 8%, but it can be between 5-10%, but 8% and 1,5mm hole shall be optimum and should require approximately 3500-4000watt at runtime and 5500 watts of heating and rapid filling of plates.

Now I can have miscalculated, so everyone can make their own calculations

Yes, I have deliberately chosen to place downcomersen in the middle to get the best access possible when to copper solder plate inside and heat from the outside of this little column.
I personally do not think this is so important in this little 4 "colon and 8% / 1.5 mm hole then teach it as a washing machine inside the sight glass all the time so the drops from return could end up just anywhere no matter where downcomers is .. .

So who will be the first to make this 4" Super Sieve plate

I personally will soon build a 10 'with 1.5 mm holes and 8% hole surface and use 2-3pc SD down comer, nowe we talking gallons-liter per our ...
and is 6.3 times greater than the plate is in 4 'so it should both require 6.3 times as much power as to provide 6.3 times as much alcohol per hour ..
My 8" in sieve plate is only 4 time bigger than a 4" in plate, so this am looking forewards to build... A cant help it, i like to build and se were is the limit

Cheers

I'm trying to follow this. So you're saying optimum is 367 of the 1/16" holes? I can't imagine how the hell anyone would fit that many holes in a 4" plate. Also what is this?

Hello Mm

1/16 is the same as 1.6 mm, and then it becomes 322hål if you have exact merged prerequisites that exeplet above ...

All calculations here are based on the specific conditions that I set above, and has a hole% to 8%, which should be the optimum ....

To explain simply so you understand it's optimum 8% of the wet activa flat surface to apply .. and you have to count everything that sits on the plate .... type return tubes, cups and threaded rod with washer and nut ... to get the wet activa flat surface and then calculate 8% hole surface ...

in the above example there is only one return that takes up 16mm of the wet activa flat surface, nothing more to figure out ....

If the plate is leaking at the sides, around the plate and the column wall then this must be taken into account and this will reduce the number of holes heavily ... which also do with traditional rebounds, cups threaded rods with nuts and washers, etc. ..

It's about 8% of the wet Activation flat surface if it is 100% tight between the plate and the column wall ....

and I drill no holes without all the holes punched on a CNC punch machine and it takes about 2-4 minutes to complete a 4 "plate under the above conditions from a 1.5 mm copper plate ....

Cheers

Use 3pcs 4 "nails and pick them out by sightglasshole when you have soldered the plate so this works Optimal and looks relly clean and nicely, just make sure the plates are pretty flat ... in wave then ..

I don't know what this means exactly. Could you clarify?

[harley03]

Hi Mm

I think that this is more for you.



1.5 mm hole in 4mm square pattern is approximately 8% hole surface and this is the ultimate ....
1.7 mm holes in 5mm square pattern around 8%
2,0 mm holes in 6mm square pattern around 8%
this is rough and needs fine counts ...
and it assumes that there is 100% tight between the plate and the column wall

return pipe Through the plate enough with 10-12mm but fix a cone it over the plate so it will be about 15-16mm in the end - better collection fluid ( and take less plate area ) and make sure that the Coppen, cups- liquid lock is sitting in the air so it does not take any active plate in claims on the plate below for the best effect, and MORE active plate area to drill hole on ...

Just some free advice ..

Cheers

[NcHooch]

Been lorkin around for several years,,wantin to build a still,,but not quite sure what i wanted to build.Got to readin 'bout these flutes,, an that did it for me.(Boy) this flute thread sure is some read,lol.
Started lookin stuff to use,,backed into a nice full sized keg,,guy Said "I heard u wuz lookin one of these"for free.When i asked how much he wanted for it,, he replied"I'll see ya sometime". Found pipe for colum today,,a 30 inch piece of 3 in,,and a 6 in piece of 3 in for deflag,,,2 3 x 2 reducers and a 3 in couplin for $100.Boy, big copper sure is hard to find.
None of the scrap yards around here will sell to the public,,had to get new ,,OUCH!!!Most places wouldnt sell me less than 5ft,,and at a higher price per foot,, so am moderately happy.
Here's the plan,,see how far off I am.Come out of the keg with 2in triclover fitting .hope can use one of the 3 x 2 reducers direct coupled to the keg.Then 4 perforated plates with 1/2 in downcomers to the straight coupling. The deflag will sit in top of coupling,with as many 1/2 in tubes as i can fit in there as will only be 6 in long.Out of that with other reducer,,over to a 2in x however long shotgun condenser, and product output.Oh shoot almost forgot,,will put sight glasses in to,,gotta have those
Ok guys there you have it,,dont rip into me too hard,, remember I'm kinda new to building,lol

That ought to work fine Sacket ... you might find some useful construction tips in my thread .
Show some copper porn once you get goin on it.

[harley03]

A really done expriment ...













A Sieve Plate for 8 "by 1.5 mm hole in 4mm square pattern that fits exactly in Sd 8" ss modular sections with 28mm return pipe that sits at the same height as the return sd 17mm and with the cup - lock in the air - in between the plates maximum plate surface activ ...

stilldragon.com/bubble-plate-still1.html

I have 3pc of those who will be compared with 3pc sd bubble plates with 17pc bubbelcaps and 2pc returns on each plate ..

So you once and for all get to see if there is any difference in the rate of production and also in taste quality ...
I have acquired a taste using a whiskey club in the neighboring town that has been active for over 10 years that will taste of raw spirit what it suffers, and then we will see which sieve plates or bubble plates that carry the most flavor and best flavor from the mash kit ...



Well I have drilled about 230-250 pc 1.5 mm holes by hand there the return the cup should sat and around the center hole so now almost 100% of the hole plate is active.... and a have almost 1440pc 1,5mm hole in this plate before this operation..

It's between 1600-1700 PC 1.5 mm hole in this 8 "sieve plate .... so we are between 9-10% hole surface of the active plate surface for maximum flow - effect ....

If you want to know the exact number of holes, count themselves in the picture and good luck ... :handgestures-thumbupright:

Better becomes is not .... this is the Max and only suitable for mesh that NOT contain molasses....
Both plates are almost maxed .... it does not get better than this in a small 8 "column ...

Center hole soldered again with copper solder and some additional holes to be drilled there ... all to a maximum range ...

It will be needed between 16.500 to 22.000 watts with such extremely high hole% but I have 22.000 watts available in my 60 gallon insulated boiler ...



bryggforum.nu/viewtopic.php?t=17335&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=75





Cheers :obscene-drinkingcheers:

[Stainless dude]

All of this talk of large diameter columns has me thinking about a new build.
I was planning on building a 25 gal boiler anyway. But I might have a problem with headroom. On my 4.5 inch or column I used a spacing of 4.2 inches between plates. If I were to go to 6 inch od column what would my plate spacing have to be?
Sorry if this has been covered and I missed it..
SD

[harley03]

Hi

For flavored products so I personally prefer 3 plates for maximum flavor exchange and neutral so I use personally by 20pc plates then took my ceiling to .... if I had more headroom when I had gone for 23pc plates ...

http://www.kothe-distilling.com/en/prod ... n-potstill" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

My space for 20pc neutral in 8 "sieve plates is 12.5 cm and the gap in 3pc bubble plates 12" for whiskey will be 20cm ..

Would I build a 6 "Sieve plates, I would not go below 10cm as a minimum, but 12,5 cm feels good to have the opportunity to have this ..

Watch Sd 6 "columns in sections where it has a 1.5 mm copper plate sandwiched between each section with clamps and then it's easy and quick to replace plates if you want to hold on and try sieve and bubble with different solutions and hole patterns to obtain the solution that suits you optimally ..

http://www.stilldragon.com/bubble-plate-still.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

These are my personal choices and opinions.

Cheers