Proper Boiler Element Grounding?

[Thegekko77]

Please see attached pics.
The box is metal and I have attached the heating element nipple to the box with J-B weld epoxy.
Is the ground wire that is attached to the metal box enough grounding, or do I need to run another wire from the keg skirt to the ground connection in the box?
G

[ShineRunner]

So you're trying to ground the keg through the box, which is jb welded to the ferrule? I'm not familiar with the setup that you have there, but JB Weld is not conductive and is actually an isolator. You need to have a mechanical connection.

As for separately grounding the keg, It's not necessary because your element is grounded (with a solid ground) and is connected/grounded to the keg by the tri-clamp, which connects the element and the ferrule.

Best way to test for sure is with a multimeter..

SR

[Thegekko77]

Best way to test for sure is with a multimeter..

SR

Thanks for your reply...What setting on the multimeter should I use?

[ShineRunner]

You want to check for continuity, so the setting with the ohm symbol. Not trying to insult you, but are you completely comfortable with running your own electric setup if you're not familiar with how to check continuity? Be safe out there!

As for the ground, is there a way to drill and tap through the box into the back side of your nipple/ferrule? I assume your element is threaded into that, so you would have continuity between them. It would still be water tight because your JB weld is sealing on the outer edge.

SR

[Thegekko77]

You want to check for continuity, so the setting with the ohm symbol. Not trying to insult you, but are you completely comfortable with running your own electric setup if you're not familiar with how to check continuity? Be safe out there!

As for the ground, is there a way to drill and tap through the box into the back side of your nipple/ferrule? I assume your element is threaded into that, so you would have continuity between them. It would still be water tight because your JB weld is sealing on the outer edge.

SR

No insult taken! I ran this still a year ago but with a different electric power setup. I am just trying to be thorough. I have used continuity checks with my radio antennas in the past so I am familiar with it.

I don't think there is enough room for a screw tapped there. I can just run another ground wire from the second ground screw inside the box and connect it to the skirt of the keg/boiler.

Another thing is that I have my keg on a wooden dolly for ease of movement. Will that pose an issue with grounding?

[ShineRunner]

That will work, and that's what I started with. However, if you're planning on removing the element to clean or store, or whatever- having to undo the ground every time will be a pain. You'll probably forget about it and rip it off.. Don't ask how I know that! One of the benefits of tri clamps is that you can remove easily. Of course, it's not that big of a deal, but it's something to consider. It can also be changed later.

Are you talking about the wood causing issues with your ground? No. Your ground is coming from the grounding rod outside your house, through the wiring, through the element, through the clamp. That's why it's important to have the element and the keg grounded with a solid ground.

[Thegekko77]

That will work, and that's what I started with. However, if you're planning on removing the element to clean or store, or whatever- having to undo the ground every time will be a pain. You'll probably forget about it and rip it off.. Don't ask how I know that! One of the benefits of tri clamps is that you can remove easily. Of course, it's not that big of a deal, but it's something to consider. It can also be changed later.

Are you talking about the wood causing issues with your ground? No. Your ground is coming from the grounding rod outside your house, through the wiring, through the element, through the clamp. That's why it's important to have the element and the keg grounded with a solid ground.

As per the pic attached, I have attached the ground wire from the second ground screw in the box to the keg skirt. I will replace the nut with a wingnut for easier removal.
To use the tri-clamp, would I just back the wingnut off and slide the ground connector over the screw and then replace and tighten the wingnut?

I checked continuity between the box, keg, furrel, and the ground prong of the plug and there was continuity between all. For the box, I had to scratch some paint to get it to register.
Thanks for all the advice. I will probably do a stripping run tomorrow.