Prepping White Oak

[Morrey]

I lost a huge White Oak in a storm and cut several "round" sections from the main trunk 1" thick. These section are pretty big, close to the diameter of a wash tub. From a section I plan to cut 1"x1" cubes on my band saw to toast or char for infusion. Any tips on the best way to prep these cubes?

[corene1]

I am sure there will be others to chime in . Personally I have always let green fresh cut wood dry out side and age for a couple of years before using it. I also cut my rounds 5 inches long so my sticks don't expose as much of the end grain and use the center cut of the round and not the outer sections. The wood seems more dense and has a better flavor when used. Once I decide to use the oak I will toast it at 350 degrees for a couple of hours and then put a medium to deep char on it, then soak it in water for a day or so before putting it in the spirit. I also have a couple of big gallon jars one filled with white whisky and one filled with Sherry and have wood soaking in then to use for my Scotch and Irish whisky recipes.

[Badmotivator]

+1, Corene. I'd like to especially recommend that folks heed the bit about weathering their wood before use. Fresh white oak is never used in cooperage, and for good reason.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Morrey]

I am sure there will be others to chime in . Personally I have always let green fresh cut wood dry out side and age for a couple of years before using it. I also cut my rounds 5 inches long so my sticks don't expose as much of the end grain and use the center cut of the round and not the outer sections. The wood seems more dense and has a better flavor when used. Once I decide to use the oak I will toast it at 350 degrees for a couple of hours and then put a medium to deep char on it, then soak it in water for a day or so before putting it in the spirit. I also have a couple of big gallon jars one filled with white whisky and one filled with Sherry and have wood soaking in then to use for my Scotch and Irish whisky recipes.

IMG_0171.JPG

All good and valuable points, Corene. I recently made a mistake when I added a fresh (out of the pack) oak spiral to a kegged Porter beer I made to simulate barrel aging. The end result (harsh and sharp) was not appealing for all the reasons you know about already. Hence, I learned to get (or make) some low end bourbon and make a "sacrificial" tincture to toss leaving me with a nice aged oak spiral to infuse with.

I have plenty of white oak left to make sticks as you make a good case that cubes will have lots of end cuts. I am learning the pros and cons here. Aging another prime point. I think I will make some sticks and allow them to age as the increased surface area will accelerate aging.

Toasting at 350F is understood, how do you char? I have taken a propane torch and scorched the wood til it blackens but short of catching on fire. Is this your method?

Many thanks!

[dieselduo]

.i usually put an alligator char on mine with a torch

[Morrey]

.i usually put an alligator char on mine with a torch

That's a deep char. Does ash slough off in your product? Or do you soak it like Corene before infusing?

[dieselduo]

I put it out in water then put it in the product. Yes it does slough off ash but after the aging I run it through a cpl of coffee filters. I'm sure others do things differently but that's the way I like mine

[Morrey]

I am getting good tips today! Thanks!!

[der wo]

An oak spiral should already be seasoned.
I use barrel staves. So I'm sure that the wood is already seasoned.

I get best results with a light or medium toast and a light char. Alligator char always turns out bad for me.

[corene1]

I am sure there will be others to chime in . Personally I have always let green fresh cut wood dry out side and age for a couple of years before using it. I also cut my rounds 5 inches long so my sticks don't expose as much of the end grain and use the center cut of the round and not the outer sections. The wood seems more dense and has a better flavor when used. Once I decide to use the oak I will toast it at 350 degrees for a couple of hours and then put a medium to deep char on it, then soak it in water for a day or so before putting it in the spirit. I also have a couple of big gallon jars one filled with white whisky and one filled with Sherry and have wood soaking in then to use for my Scotch and Irish whisky recipes.

IMG_0171.JPG

All good and valuable points, Corene. I recently made a mistake when I added a fresh (out of the pack) oak spiral to a kegged Porter beer I made to simulate barrel aging. The end result (harsh and sharp) was not appealing for all the reasons you know about already. Hence, I learned to get (or make) some low end bourbon and make a "sacrificial" tincture to toss leaving me with a nice aged oak spiral to infuse with.

I have plenty of white oak left to make sticks as you make a good case that cubes will have lots of end cuts. I am learning the pros and cons here. Aging another prime point. I think I will make some sticks and allow them to age as the increased surface area will accelerate aging.

Toasting at 350F is understood, how do you char? I have taken a propane torch and scorched the wood til it blackens but short of catching on fire. Is this your metho
Many thanks!

I wrap my sticks in foil and seal them then bake at 350 or until the wood is a light brown. The time will change depending on the amount of wood being toasted. When I char I use a propane torch and go very slowly . I have a stainless grill I set them on and start with the heat about 12 inches away constantly moving and increase the char slowly and it is not a thick char either. I don't like to just blaze the wood and let it burn and put it out as that tends to just fall off when soaked. I have found that if I work it up to a char slowly it seems to char a bit deeper without losing as much of the sticks surface . Try one each way and then cut it in half and look at the cross section. a really hot and fast char will mostly fall off while the slow char will penetrate the stick a little deeper without as much loss to the surface. My thought is that a barrel is flash charred because it has so much more area and the wood is only charred on one side so there is not as much loss of wood to charring. My sticks are charred all the way around so I don't think a heavy char is necessary. Just my thoughts though.

[Truckinbutch]

I am sure there will be others to chime in . Personally I have always let green fresh cut wood dry out side and age for a couple of years before using it. I also cut my rounds 5 inches long so my sticks don't expose as much of the end grain and use the center cut of the round and not the outer sections. The wood seems more dense and has a better flavor when used. Once I decide to use the oak I will toast it at 350 degrees for a couple of hours and then put a medium to deep char on it, then soak it in water for a day or so before putting it in the spirit. I also have a couple of big gallon jars one filled with white whisky and one filled with Sherry and have wood soaking in then to use for my Scotch and Irish whisky recipes.

IMG_0171.JPG

All good and valuable points, Corene. I recently made a mistake when I added a fresh (out of the pack) oak spiral to a kegged Porter beer I made to simulate barrel aging. The end result (harsh and sharp) was not appealing for all the reasons you know about already. Hence, I learned to get (or make) some low end bourbon and make a "sacrificial" tincture to toss leaving me with a nice aged oak spiral to infuse with.

I have plenty of white oak left to make sticks as you make a good case that cubes will have lots of end cuts. I am learning the pros and cons here. Aging another prime point. I think I will make some sticks and allow them to age as the increased surface area will accelerate aging.

Toasting at 350F is understood, how do you char? I have taken a propane torch and scorched the wood til it blackens but short of catching on fire. Is this your metho
Many thanks!

I do it about the same way and for the sane reasons .
I bought a half barrel planter a few years back at Lowe's . Cleaned it up and baked some sticks and then charred about half of them .
Like Corene says ; they just flash char barrels . Baking and recharing that wood will give it new life .


I wrap my sticks in foil and seal them then bake at 350 or until the wood is a light brown. The time will change depending on the amount of wood being toasted. When I char I use a propane torch and go very slowly . I have a stainless grill I set them on and start with the heat about 12 inches away constantly moving and increase the char slowly and it is not a thick char either. I don't like to just blaze the wood and let it burn and put it out as that tends to just fall off when soaked. I have found that if I work it up to a char slowly it seems to char a bit deeper without losing as much of the sticks surface . Try one each way and then cut it in half and look at the cross section. a really hot and fast char will mostly fall off while the slow char will penetrate the stick a little deeper without as much loss to the surface. My thought is that a barrel is flash charred because it has so much more area and the wood is only charred on one side so there is not as much loss of wood to charring. My sticks are charred all the way around so I don't think a heavy char is necessary. Just my thoughts though.

[SaltyStaves]

If you are toasting then charring immediately afterwards, be careful and extinguish the wood by complete submersion (in water), or an airtight metal box.
When it comes off the heat source from toasting, it is still very hot and then hitting it with a flame can keep it burning under the char layer. If you don't extinguish it properly, it can turn to charcoal.
I use a demister water bottle and spray fine mist over it to put out the flame. However, it is not sufficient to stop it burning. I then submerge it (forcefully, as they tend to float).

Also consider how the char can affect the level of toast (especially if you char all sides). You may have the perfect level of toast for your desired taste, but once you char it, you are also increasing the toast profile. Especially true with the small sizes pieces of oak we tend to use at the hobby level.
As corene1 says, its a good idea to sacrifice one of your pieces and cut into it and inspect it.

[Morrey]

I really appreciate all of your great tips, techniques and advice. I have a good supply of White Oak, now I know some of the best ways to use it. Thanks All!