Homebuild Electric Controller - Sanity Check Please

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joeymac
Swill Maker
Posts: 306
Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2015 6:22 pm

Homebuild Electric Controller - Sanity Check Please

Post by joeymac »

So I'm finally getting around to putting a controller together for a Keg-boiler I put together almost a year ago. I do have an 8 gal kettle with small boka column I used in the past on a 115v induction plate, but it was always popping fuses after running for several hours so I'm upgrading everything all at once. I want the new box to be able to supply 120v as well as 240v so that I can mash and brew in the smaller kettle as well as boil the 15gal keg. I just need a sanity check here to make sure I'm not going to let any of the magic smoke out. :think:

Operation:
It plugs into my NEMA 5-50R Outlet (welder's outlet). Obviously, the main breaker switch turns everything on and off. For active power indicators it has orange lamps that show when 120v on each input leg is active and the cooling fan spinning with blue LEDs should indicate good 12v power supply. There is a kill switch (with the green indicator LED) that stops all control input voltage to the SSR so all outputs can be shut off completely without turning off the whole box. Wiring selection was 10ga for all the high amperage with 16g-22ga powering all the control and indicators (all of the 16-22ga stuff is fused at 1A.). The relay is actually a 4 pole independently controlled zero-crossing SSR. I would have preferred a bigger 40A relay, but this one is pretty swanky and can shut off both hots to both outlets and it was FREE... so I have the 25A breaker and fan cooled heatsink to protect and help it. The 3-position knob controls which output is active and only one is active at any given time; 120V Plugs (full power) or 240V plug (full power) or 240 (regulated with Auberin DSPR1). Ultimately, the path to the boiler will be a NEMA L6-30P connector with a SOOW 10/4 cable and a Camco 5500W ULD Ripple Element in a Brewer's Hardware Sanitary Adapter.

My biggest concerns are:
1) I only have a 25A Breaker on the main switch (because the SSR is only a 4x25A relay). At max power it should be pulling about 23 amps and spirit runs could be 6-9 hours long. :think:
2) Even though I have 10/4 SOOW cabling, my 6-50R outlets are both 3-prong. This is not a problem on the boiler side since the heating element only has 3 terminals (I'll just leave the neutral unused). But some of the electronics in the box do have a ground and a neutral so I just tied the ground and neutral bars together and the cable going to the wall outlet will only have a ground connected (again, leaving the neutral unconnected). Is this problematic?
Attachments
Wire Schematic
Wire Schematic
"Woe to those who are heroes at drinking wine and champions at mixing drinks" - God (Isaiah 5:22)
So evidently, God wants us to drink our whiskeys single barrel and our Bourbons neat.
joeymac
Swill Maker
Posts: 306
Joined: Sat Oct 17, 2015 6:22 pm

Re: Homebuild Electric Controller - Sanity Check Please

Post by joeymac »

Here's some pics with the wiring mostly finished. All all of the 16-22ga control stuff done. I still have to wire in the outlets, power cord and SSR... basically all of the 10ga high power stuff. And here's a pic of the SSR, the little pins in the middle are the DC control pins.

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"Woe to those who are heroes at drinking wine and champions at mixing drinks" - God (Isaiah 5:22)
So evidently, God wants us to drink our whiskeys single barrel and our Bourbons neat.
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