Threaded pipes?

[niftyprose]

Hi all, I'm a newbie constructing my first still. Basic plumbing no problem, but I'd appreciate some experienced input on the following specific issue.

I'm trying to make the still as compact as possible so it can be stashed easily and hygeinically. One way to acheive that would be to have the condenser unscrew from the column. I can obtain copper parts designed for a soldered joint to copper on one side and a screw-in fitting on the other. My plan would involve screwing in stainless or copper pipe.

I've never worked with a copper thread but my guess is that it's pretty soft, thus that the stainless might chew it up, or that in the case of copper/copper it would get beaten out of shape. Also, it's a pretty short thread -- just an inch or so. Would such a joint be vaportight without me applying the kinds of chemical that I don't want turning up in the final product?

Best, NP.

[Opdog]

I assume that you a building a pot still. Most of us have found that tri clamp fittings with PTFE gaskets work well for that application. You don't have to worry the threads getting chewed up that way.

What kind of condenser are you looking at and how will it be mounted (what angle)? A little more information about your setup will yield a better answer to your question.

[Pikey]

What we call "Compression fittings" in this oountry, work just fine. a turn of ptfe tape on the threads shouldn't be necessary, but would solve any leaks due to any reticence to tighten fully.

[niftyprose]

Thanks, Opdog and Pikey! I just bought the milk churn (U.S.: can) on eBay and will be building a Liebig condenser out of copper pipe. I'll stick up a more detailed description of the proposed build when I've finalized the column -- still havering over the details; should update this thread in a few days. Best, W.

[Kareltje]

+1 Pikey.
Some time ago I bought a secondhand still with a helmet and soldered on it a 22 mm OD riser, a T and a Lyne-arm with a reducer to 15 mm OD. Than a compression coupling to the condenser.
First thing I did was unsoldering the T and replacing it with a compression coupling. Than cutting the riser from the helmet and again using a coupling. This gave me at least 3 extra degrees of freedom.
When you use these couplings the first 2 or 3 times you have to watch closely for sweatinngs, but when you screw them a bit tighter, this stops. If not you can always use white gastape.
I even made a Liebig with two 15-15-22-pieces.

[Hoosier Shine9]

The other option would be to solder a copper union inline.

[Oldvine Zin]

The other option would be to solder a copper union inline.

+1 on the copper unions. My preferred method is tri clamps but if you are on a tight budget and are willing to sacrifice modularity copper unions are great.
The compression fittings I could do without - never a great seal and a lot of fuss to get them to work reliably if they ever are

OVZ

[zapata]

In order of my preference: triclamp, union, "unsoldered" solder fittings, compression. I would never fuss with pipe thread fittings if that is what you mean in the op.

By "unsoldered" solder fittings I mean standard solder fittings that may be soldered on one or neither side, the unsoldered side has the pipe wrapped in ptfe tape before being inserted to the fitting. Replace tape every use, but works fine. Might want an external wrap of tape or flour paste just in case. These probably win the budget contest as if going inline, a standard solder coupling is the cheapest fitting available in any given size or if going at a T, 90, 45 whatever you've already got the potential there for free. Best used on a vertical joint so they cant be accidentally pulled apart, and helps to scratch a reference mark or measure so you know when you have it rammed home.