Water heater element for grain /rum runs

[hpby98]

So, my 4400 watt water heater element works great for my sugar washes but I’m starting to think about grain runs.

How well do water heater elements work for rum / grain runs? I’ve searched but can’t find a succinct answer.

I would be straining before running of course and also have a voltage controller

[bluefish_dist]

The ultral low watt density ones work fine.

[hpby98]

The ultral low watt density ones work fine.

Thanks, looks like that’s what I already have

[Saltbush Bill]

So, my 4400 watt water heater element works great for my sugar washes but I’m starting to think about grain runs.

How well do water heater elements work for rum / grain runs? I’ve searched but can’t find a succinct answer.

Cant see it working very well at all without a controller connected.

[hpby98]

So, my 4400 watt water heater element works great for my sugar washes but I’m starting to think about grain runs.

How well do water heater elements work for rum / grain runs? I’ve searched but can’t find a succinct answer.

Cant see it working very well at all without a controller connected.

For reflux runs I run it at 110v = 1100 watts after it warms up.

But I do also have a controller for it as well which has recently been hooked up. Only a quick test so far but worked great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC220V-10000W- ... 2510127724" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I should really do up a welcome post already shouldn’t I?

[cede]

ULWD 5500W works well with grains but you have, like other told, to be able to reduce power at some point.
I used a home made zero crossing controller with a big SSR but you can find a bunch already made on internet.

[zapata]

I've used standard or low density elements on very clear washes of every type at some point and they did fine. Many brewers are realizing they can get by without the ultra low watt density too.

But typically I use an ULWD element anyway, and don't worry about anything other than chunks. The 1 thing I'm careful about though is to not preload the still. I don't want anything settling on the element before turning it on, say if you pre-load the boiler to be ready for a run the next day.

[Antler24]

I don't want anything settling on the element before turning it on, say if you pre-load the boiler to be ready for a run the next day.

I've done this plenty of times with ujsm and molasses washes, never had a problem. 5500w ulwd

[hpby98]

I don't want anything settling on the element before turning it on, say if you pre-load the boiler to be ready for a run the next day.

I've done this plenty of times with ujsm and molasses washes, never had a problem. 5500w ulwd

What do you mean pre-load the boiler? Thx

[bluefish_dist]

Preloading is when you fill it the night before. Then it sits settling for a while before you turn on the heat. I used to do that, but found the acidic nature of the wash tends to do funky things to the copper in the plates. Now I fill and run right away.

[Skipper1953]

I use a 5500 watt element in my boilers. I also use a power controller. I've run some pretty murky still charges without any scorching issues. The key for me has been to keep the stuff in the boiler moving while it is heating up and don't get in a hurry and use too much power. I keep stirring until I see a pretty good convection current starting to move the liquid around. It can be slow but I make sure I have time.
If you have allowed the charge to sit in the boiler for a while, be sure to stir it up really, really good before turning on the element. You don't want the element sitting in a layer of "mud" at the bottom of the boiler.
I have been using steam for a long time. If you don't have that option, you're going to have to be patient.

[hpby98]

Preloading is when you fill it the night before. Then it sits settling for a while before you turn on the heat. I used to do that, but found the acidic nature of the wash tends to do funky things to the copper in the plates. Now I fill and run right away.

Much thanks - it's what I thought but I like being sure.

[hpby98]

I use a 5500 watt element in my boilers. I also use a power controller. I've run some pretty murky still charges without any scorching issues. The key for me has been to keep the stuff in the boiler moving while it is heating up and don't get in a hurry and use too much power. I keep stirring until I see a pretty good convection current starting to move the liquid around. It can be slow but I make sure I have time.
If you have allowed the charge to sit in the boiler for a while, be sure to stir it up really, really good before turning on the element. You don't want the element sitting in a layer of "mud" at the bottom of the boiler.
I have been using steam for a long time. If you don't have that option, you're going to have to be patient.

Steam has been brought up and suggested by my welder too.

What's your steam setup? I had look thru your posts but couldn't see it...

[BamaBill]

Hi guys. I was curious what size boilers you guys are talking about. I presently heat with propane and am considering a switch to electric. Would a 15 or 30 gallon take two water heater elements?

[bluefish_dist]

One 5500w is fine for a 15 gal, but I would go with two for 30 gallons. That keeps warm up less than 1 hr.

[Antler24]

I don't want anything settling on the element before turning it on, say if you pre-load the boiler to be ready for a run the next day.

I've done this plenty of times with ujsm and molasses washes, never had a problem. 5500w ulwd

Yes I usually prefill the night before, always run wide open until it starts to run. I've never had any scorching but then again my washes all have a week or 2 to clear.


What do you mean pre-load the boiler? Thx

[Antler24]

One 5500w is fine for a 15 gal, but I would go with two for 30 gallons. That keeps warm up less than 1 hr.

Yeah I'll second that. I don't mind an hour heat up, but I wouldn't want it to take any longer.

[raketemensch]

But, to hit that 5500 Watts you’ll need a 220 outlet near the still.

It’s totally worth whatever you have to do to get there, tho. Safely stilling indoors in the winter is the bomb.

[The Baker]

Racketemensch used the B word!!

Geoff

[Antler24]

But, to hit that 5500 Watts you’ll need a 220 outlet near the still.

It’s totally worth whatever you have to do to get there, tho. Safely stilling indoors in the winter is the bomb.

It'll pay for itself in no time as well! Great cost savings over propane!

[BamaBill]

Thanks for the feedback guys, and sorry to interrupt the intent of the thread.

[rootjuice]

Hey guys, i m starting the process of building a second still using a 15gal keg. I want this one to be electric. So my question to you guys is: Can you give recommend a place to buy the entire system such as the element, controller, and the ferrel?
Thanks in Advance

[Antler24]

Hey guys, i m starting the process of building a second still using a 15gal keg. I want this one to be electric. So my question to you guys is: Can you give recommend a place to buy the entire system such as the element, controller, and the ferrel?
Thanks in Advance

Stilldragon would be the best option I think for buying everything, but you'll pay alot for it. I bought my element and spud from Amazon, eBay controller, and cut the wiring from an old clothes dryer. A friend welded it for $20, total cost less than $100 cad

[Skipper1953]

I've was pleased with my experience with BrewHardware.com a couple of years ago. I haven't been there lately.

[Bushman]

I believe still dragon took an idea I had and improved the design for a filter that covers the element to prevent scorching. You might want to check it out.

[bluefish_dist]

Still dragon for the control circuit and hook ups. I think electric brewer is where I got the camco stainless brewing elements. Just search for camco stainless steel elements.

[zapata]

I like brewhardware for the contoured solder on ferrule. I like still dragon for the controller kit. Other parts I can't say I have a preference for.

[BlackStrap]

Good Day Home Distillers...
Still Dragon has a controller kit with instructions
http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-sm ... oller.html

I believe someone mention a guard for the element, also from Still Dragon
http://stilldragon.com/index.php/elemen ... ector.html

I've had awesome results with this element from Amazon this ULWD 5500w (even accidentally dry fired it, and it is still working)
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Scre ... ULWD+5500w

Hopefully someone finds these links helpful.

[kevin007]

Hi. I have a 5 galon copper alembic potstill. I have been using propane to heat but would prefer to go electric. Most immersion heaters seem to need a tripple clamp and or mostly used it seems on stainless or keg boilers. Im afraid of the thinness of my copper pot to handling the weight of an immersion heater with temp control box dragging on the thin copper wall. Does anyone else heat a small copper pot using electric heat? What works well for others?

[The Baker]

Isn't the controller usually fixed to a wall or something and connected to the element with the electrical cord??

Geoff