I'm only about halfway through the thread but have already read enough to second that suggestion.Nightforce wrote:Could someone update the first page with information on how to solder stainless to copper. I had a hell of a time getting the stainless ferrule soldered to the copper pipe.
I read you could use HCl to clean the SS really good, heating the SS first, then to the copper, vise versa, then tried tinning the SS but it just beaded up and ran off; nothing worked. I'm guessing a higher silver content solder is needed to wet the SS. I'm using 95/4.5/0.5 tin/copper/silver solder and tried acid flux and normal flux to no avail. I ended up just un-soldering everything, tinning the copper pipe heavily, then cleaning the ferrule good, spinning it in the lathe with 240 grit sand paper to make some scratches for the solder to bite, then heating up the ferrule until it melted the solder so it would make a tight mechanical bond. It worked as it didn't leak when filling up the column full of water nor during several cycles of water tests but my fear is that the mechanical bond will fail in time due to stress.
Seems as though soldering SS ferrules onto 2" copper pipe is one of the common (and challanging) mixed-metal soldering tasks.
I'm also going to try to solder a 2" SS ferrule to 2" copper pipe and was convinced to try 'tinning' until I ran into this post.
I have:
-Radnor Stay Brite Lead-free 3.4-3.8% Ag / balance Sn solder
-MAPP blowtorch
-Weller 175W soldering iron
I would greatly appreciate any advice as to whether I can join my SS Ferrule to my copper pipe with these tools and what process is likely to be most effective.
If I clean the SS with undiluted Muriatic Acid rather than HCL is tinning of the SS ferrule using the soldering iron likely to be the most effective approach?