stripping run advice, temps etc

[NZChris]

As I don't drink "brown" spirits and the pot still I have is too small would you recommend making a reflux still.

I recommend you decide what it is you want to make, then build a still that can make that.

[stringman]

what I want to make is vodka and gin

[der wo]

what I want to make is vodka and gin

Potstill for stripping. LM/Boka for spirit runs.
The first thing you have to decide is the batch volume, heating source and column diameter. But all three points are related, what makes the decision difficult sometimes...

[still_stirrin]

what I want to make is vodka and gin

So then your potstill isn't necessarily the best tool for the job. If you can only have one tool, the best option would be a CCVM. Because it can be detuned (remove the reflux coil and cap the top) and run as a potstill to strip. Then, insert the coul and run as a high reflux ratio column to clean your low wines into a neutral. Then, again remove the coil and cap to reconfigure into a potstill for running your macerated gin (botanicals). And for vodka, you could likewise triple distill it to clean it to an truely neutral vodka.

The CCVM variations offer operational flexibility.

Or, you could build multiple stills specifically for the job you're trying to accomplish.
ss

[der wo]

Keep in mind, that you cannot switch with a CCVM from reflux to potstill mode within the run (Or at least it is difficult. You would have to wear gloves, take out the coil and cap it fastly). With Gin perhaps you want to compress the juniper oils and collect them well separated and then run in potstill mode. And then later perhaps start again refluxing a bit. It is difficult to see if you want this function in future. For me, I would want this.
Like with a capped CCVM you can strip with a LM too. But potstill is easier to assemble and less cleaning. And the best tool to learn about cuts btw.

[NZChris]

Build a Leggo still.

Short swan neck for fast stripping.
Gin basket that can be inserted under the swan neck for making gin.
Bokakob column (or whatever takes your fancy) for vodka and clean neutral.

[The Baker]

stillstirrin said: 'you could build multiple stills specifically for the job you're trying to accomplish."

And you could run them both (whatever) at the same time.
Given that your power supply is okay; if there is a limit to your power you could run one on electricity and another on propane (or better still, natural gas).
It seems that the greatest cost in distilling is - wait for it - your own labour (yes that is how we spell it...)
The time you spend keeping an eye on the distillation could as well be spent watching TWO stills.
As well as fermenting and bottling and washing up and washing up and washing up....

Geoff

[stringman]

Build a Leggo still.

Short swan neck for fast stripping.
Gin basket that can be inserted under the swan neck for making gin.
Bokakob column (or whatever takes your fancy) for vodka and clean neutral.

I did a search for leggo still but couldn't find anything on it?

[NZChris]

Leggo is a Danish kids building block toy system.

My reference to it, was to suggest a set of multi purpose components that can easily be configured to various distilling tasks using tri-clamps as the joints.

[stringman]

Thanks for all the advice guys

I now have about 5.5L of 40% neutral, still smells far from neutral though.
I will have to wait a while before I can do a spirit run. hopefully this weekend will be free.

I like the sound of these stills.
I think I like the CCVM still.
I will do a search for some proper plans etc.

My problem at the moment is I do my stilling on the cooker. there is only about 50cm above the pot befor I hit the cupboard, if I offset it slightly then I will have about 90cm before I hit the ceiling, is this going to mess me up.

I would love to a have a one still fits all, I am happy I cant "hot swap" as I would make a neutral and then use odins recipe so there would be at least a 24 hour break.

so if you have any recommendations of a simple small still (10-15l) please flag them up

[stringman]

Leggo is a Danish kids building block toy system.

My reference to it, was to suggest a set of multi purpose components that can easily be configured to various distilling tasks using tri-clamps as the joints.

That cracked me up lol
You get so many quirky names (birdwatchers wash etc) that I just presumed that it was a users design.

[NZChris]

I thought the brand was so well known that the association couldn't get missed

[NZChris]

...and I think I have seen a distiller describe his still as Leggo.

[Danespirit]

Could have been me, Chris..
Lego is one of our export hits here in Denmark.
All my equipment is made modular, that opens up a whole bunch of new opportunities, without the need for a new build.
Btw Stringman..You've already got some very good advice from the guys in here, so I've not much more to add.
Except for a few things, about your equipment:
I saw that still you've bought "DIY 2 Gal 10 Liters Home Distiller Moonshine Alcohol Still Stainless Boiler Copper Thumper Keg". https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XFXN2EU/re ... TybGDVGTRJ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Well, truth to be told, the folks that sell it, don't know a shit about distilling.
The so-called "thumper" is a flake stand mounted on the possibly worst place it could be...over the boiler where all the heat ascents.
It's tiny enough already, so no need for additional secondary heat radiating from the boiler. Fabricate a support for it and let it stand beside the boiler....not on it.
What's more of an issue though, is the fact that it has probably a silicone (or even worse some other synthetic) gasket to seal the lid to the boiler. Also, the gasket under that ferrule is likely to be synthetic.
It HAS to go..!
It seems to me, they intended to make the customer ferment AND distil in the same contraption, hence the airlock in the lid (plastic too).
If they deliver some kind of end cap to replace that ferrule while fermenting, I can only hope you are aware of that ball valve beneath the airlock, ain't locked. Or you'll seriously experience how much pressure a fermentation can produce.
As i have no idea what that valve contains, my guess is..it's a cheap brass valve with rubber gasket in it. The moment you distill something in that contraption, the rubber WILL leach into your product..!
Get rid of that valve and don't replace it with a new one.
You should rip that airlock out and find another suitable container for fermentation. While you are at it, seal the hole with appropriate sealant ( PTFE tape, copper or even flour dough).
Everything you have had running through that contraption, has to be discarded, due to the above mentioned safety issues.
DO NOT distill a drop in that dangerously made thing, before you have corrected each and everyone of these issues.
Seriously, I'm not trying to be an asshole, just trying to keep you from harming yourself with that thing.

[Danespirit]

Thanks for all the advice guys

I now have about 5.5L of 40% neutral, still smells far from neutral though.
I will have to wait a while before I can do a spirit run. hopefully this weekend will be free.

I like the sound of these stills.
I think I like the CCVM still.
I will do a search for some proper plans etc.

My problem at the moment is I do my stilling on the cooker. there is only about 50cm above the pot befor I hit the cupboard, if I offset it slightly then I will have about 90cm before I hit the ceiling, is this going to mess me up.

I would love to a have a one still fits all, I am happy I cant "hot swap" as I would make a neutral and then use odins recipe so there would be at least a 24 hour break.

so if you have any recommendations of a simple small still (10-15l) please flag them up

Have a look at the construction thread.
There are a lot of guys using a stockpot as a pot still.
IF you go for such a still, get a stockpot at least 15-20 L. That would provide you with a decent result from a stripping run.
Your other contraption you have at hand can be modified to become a still, as I mentioned earlier.
If you use it for a spirit run, it can match the stripping run from the other pot still.
If you have a problem with the height in your kitchen, maybe you should look after a hotplate and a simple controller for it. Like the one, I have made for my little gin still: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 85&t=58011
and http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 50&t=64618
Others have already pointed you in the right direction regarding a reflux still, the choice is yours whether it should be LM, VM or CM.
With a relatively short column, you'll be able to have some fine neutral.

[stringman]

Could have been me, Chris..
Lego is one of our export hits here in Denmark.
All my equipment is made modular, that opens up a whole bunch of new opportunities, without the need for a new build.
Btw Stringman..You've already got some very good advice from the guys in here, so I've not much more to add.
Except for a few things, about your equipment:
I saw that still you've bought "DIY 2 Gal 10 Liters Home Distiller Moonshine Alcohol Still Stainless Boiler Copper Thumper Keg". https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XFXN2EU/re ... TybGDVGTRJ" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Well, truth to be told, the folks that sell it, don't know a shit about distilling.

That is true- I didn't buy this actual still- I bought mine at an auction but it is very similar


The so-called "thumper" is a flake stand mounted on the possibly worst place it could be...over the boiler where all the heat ascents.
It's tiny enough already, so no need for additional secondary heat radiating from the boiler. Fabricate a support for it and let it stand beside the boiler....not on it.

that is what I have done, the pot has been rotated and sits at the same height but not on the still

What's more of an issue though, is the fact that it has probably a silicone (or even worse some other synthetic) gasket to seal the lid to the boiler. Also, the gasket under that ferrule is likely to be synthetic.
It HAS to go..!
It seems to me, they intended to make the customer ferment AND distil in the same contraption, hence the airlock in the lid (plastic too).
If they deliver some kind of end cap to replace that ferrule while fermenting, I can only hope you are aware of that ball valve beneath the airlock, ain't locked. Or you'll seriously experience how much pressure a fermentation can produce.

I don't use it to ferment in just for runs. the airlock has been removed and the valve switched off no steam escapes from it

As i have no idea what that valve contains, my guess is..it's a cheap brass valve with rubber gasket in it. The moment you distill something in that contraption, the rubber WILL leach into your product..!
Get rid of that valve and don't replace it with a new one.
You should rip that airlock out and find another suitable container for fermentation. While you are at it, seal the hole with appropriate sealant ( PTFE tape, copper or even flour dough).

All gaskets have been triple wrapped in PTFE tape

Everything you have had running through that contraption, has to be discarded, due to the above mentioned safety issues.
DO NOT distill a drop in that dangerously made thing, before you have corrected each and everyone of these issues.
Seriously, I'm not trying to be an asshole, just trying to keep you from harming yourself with that thing.

Thanks for the post. when I first got the still I posted about it and was given the exact same advice. I followed it all and have triple covered any seals I couldn't replace.

[school]

Sorry to revive an old thread. I used to think that when people said they ran a stripping run down to, for example, 30% they meant until what was coming off was 30%. But I have recently realized that they mean until the abv of the mixture is 30%. So my stupid question is, does that mean y’all are collecting in a vessel big enough for the whole run and proofing as you go to get the abv of the mixture? Or do you just know the math well enough to know when your mixture will be at your target? I am collecting in gallons jugs but it takes about two and a half of them to collect my average stripping run, do I need to figure out a way to collect in one big vessel so I know the average?

[NZChris]

I have a preserving pan that can take a whole stripping run. That has now been superseded by a large glass vessel I scored at a charity shop and graduated myself with a felt tip.

[Expat]

5 or 6 gallon carboys are what I prefer. Depends on what I'm stripping as per the % ABV I run it down to. Rum for example I run down to 10% abv output.

[Saltbush Bill]

I used to think that when people said they ran a stripping run down to, for example, 30% they meant until what was coming off was 30%. But I have recently realized that they mean until the abv of the mixture is 30%.

I'm confused or your still confused maybe.
When I say I stripped down to 25% ABV, I mean what was coming out of the spout at the time I stopped stripping was 25% abv.
If I meant that the ABV of the total volume of what I had stripped from the wash was 18% then that is what I would say.
I think that most people do it that way, but maybe I'm wrong.
Hope that makes some sence.

[NZChris]

I used to think that when people said they ran a stripping run down to, for example, 30% they meant until what was coming off was 30%. But I have recently realized that they mean until the abv of the mixture is 30%.

Well, actually, if they haven't said whether they mean at the spout or for the total collection, you don't know for sure what they mean and can only guess or ask them.

[school]

I asked this on one of these threads and someone told me it meant the average of the whole mixture, but it sounds like people use it different ways. Thanks, guys.