copper CPU cooler

[Chauncey]

I kinda think some fuzzy 3/8" tubing would make a good dimroth.
Now, where the hell can I find some of that in copper or SS

Fuzzy tubing sounds like a band name

[still_stirrin]

I kinda think some fuzzy 3/8" tubing would make a good dimroth.

Fuzzy tubing sounds like a band name

Or, some sort of S&M sex toy.

[shadylane]

You must be getten Old
Now days they shave off the fuzz
So I'm told

[acfixer69]

Yep no carpet just hard wood flooring

[Chauncey]

This threads getting fuzzy yall

[The Baker]

Yep no carpet just hard wood flooring

Nothing like shag pile carpet.

Geoff

[OtisT]

You must be getten Old
Now days they shave off the fuzz
So I'm told

Damn Shady, I’ve not laughed that loud in a while. Folks in the coffee shop are staring at me now as I chuckle and type. Damn, I’m still laughing.

Thanks, I needed that. Otis

[OtisT]

It would be great to see that thing in action in a sight glass. My guess is that surface tension is clogging up the center of the fins.

Several mentions of fuzzy tubing. I think the main issue with small fibers, pits, rough surface to increase surface area is that they only work well with dry air. Once liquid fills the small gaps the added surface area advantage goes way down.

Otis

[shadylane]

Dang I just cut the CPU cooler dephleg off.
I'm using the mount and plumbing for a new experiment.
And I have a sight glass I can use.

[Fiddleford]

I want to wake up this thread and maybe add few ideals.

Lets say we fins on a condenser pipe, and the pipe is covered in fins 3 feet, now just alone without anything to remove the heat from the fins the pipe would just get hot if we use a fan on it the thing would cool down but what if we ran heat pipes along the fins that lead to a cooling device of some kind. I am curious of the results it would yield.

in the image the fin is copper colored, the condenser tube is blue, and the heat pipes are red

[Northsouth]

I just scribbled on a piece of paper an idea like this. Was thinking this in combination with alternate mini-dephlegs to get the vapor going inside-outside level by level. The depleg would be a single pass (larger diameter than the down going cold pipe). With 4 up comers, one would then alternate 90 deg what goes in to the mini dephl, and what goes up to next level. This would be a hobby in itself to build, though.

[greggn]

I just scribbled on a piece of paper an idea like this. Was thinking this in combination with alternate mini-dephlegs to get the vapor going inside-outside level by level. The depleg would be a single pass (larger diameter than the down going cold pipe). With 4 up comers, one would then alternate 90 deg what goes in to the mini dephl, and what goes up to next level. This would be a hobby in itself to build, though.

Sorry, I can't picture your concept but as soon as you mention "alternate 90 deg" then I have to wonder how you will avoid pooling.

[shadylane]

It would be great to see that thing in action in a sight glass. My guess is that surface tension is clogging up the center of the fins.

Several mentions of fuzzy tubing. I think the main issue with small fibers, pits, rough surface to increase surface area is that they only work well with dry air. Once liquid fills the small gaps the added surface area advantage goes way down.

Otis

That's exactly what I found out. The fuzzy dephleg experiment was a bust.
Sorry No pics of that experiment.
The liquid alcohol clung to and filled the gaps between the close spaced copper strips.
That caused the vapor speed to increase because it was blocking the vapors path.

[Northsouth]

I just scribbled on a piece of paper an idea like this. Was thinking this in combination with alternate mini-dephlegs to get the vapor going inside-outside level by level. The depleg would be a single pass (larger diameter than the down going cold pipe). With 4 up comers, one would then alternate 90 deg what goes in to the mini dephl, and what goes up to next level. This would be a hobby in itself to build, though.

Sorry, I can't picture your concept but as soon as you mention "alternate 90 deg" then I have to wonder how you will avoid pooling.

Here is how I imagined it.

If I have understood the flow a bit, where you cool the most and liquid forms, the pressure will drop, this sucks in more vapor, hence the alternating pattern of chambers. Idea is to force the vapor on the inside, then on the outside, back and forth along the height. The 90 degree shifting of up-going return is to get a water flow across the surface inside the chamber.

It would be time consuming, it is over-complicated, and the point about pooling is certainly relevant unless the top plate on each chamber is slanted or round (complicating the fabrication even more). Basically a wild and unrealistic idea. Then again, so is the idea that an absolute beginner at any handcraft such as myself can pull of making a decent coil without spending a fortune in copper

[shadylane]

Every inch of dephleg height, is an inch less available for the column before it hits the ceiling.

[LD50]

just re-reading old threads

I've read that the phase-change material in electronics heatsink heatpipes is simply methanol or ethanol with a wick - certainly the one I was modifying and accidently I cut into a few years ago smelled suspiciously just like my sugar wash foreshots which caused me to Google to see what they used.

[shadylane]

just re-reading old threads

Nothing wrong with that, except Ya might learn some bad habits.

[Shine_Dad]

Wondering Shady if you connected the three tubes in series to make a more traditional dimroth would it be much different to the three coils in parallel .

Likewise wondering if a multi loop parallel connected cooler like you did but with many more loops would be a any different to the same number of coils n series ?

I know the copper scrubber did nothing in your dimroth test but maybe that was because it was already efficient enough . Would three turns on there own then benifit from copper packing as it may act like the fins

This thread popped up on Active Topics... so I decided to read the whole thread.

Then I read this comment and realized that we moved from making a condenser into a time machine and that I was not educated enough to be reading this post.

Keep up all the crazy sh*t yall!

[shadylane]

Keep up all the crazy sh*t yall!

This was one of my "crazy sh*t" experiments:
I figured adding more surface area for vapor to condense on is a good idea.
But I didn't take into account that if the fins were spaced close enough together, liquid could fill the gaps.
Anyways, now I know.

[MooseMan]

Keep up all the crazy sh*t yall!

This was one of my "crazy sh*t" experiments:
I figured adding more surface area for vapor to condense on is a good idea.
But I didn't take into account that if the fins were spaced close enough together, liquid could fill the gaps.
Anyways, now I know.

I enjoyed this thread too shady, I'm looking at ways to add cooling mass/fins to the outside of my Dimroth shell and your ideas give me brain lubricant.

I have a Dimroth in a 2.5" shell with an open end. The shell is twice the length of the Dimroth and I have noticed on stripping runs that the end of the shell heats up a little and starts to give off tiny wisps of vapour as it heats the product back up.

So in my case, whilst I'm fairly sure the PC is capable enough, I am looking at aluminium bonded to the outside of the shell, to wick heat away.