Copper ferrule

[Just_Doug]

I have looked far and wide for a 3/4" copper ferrule with no success. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.
D.

[Dancing4dan]

Over priced if you find one! Unless you are looking for the “look” use SS

MILE Hi Distilling has them

[Yummyrum]

Some have copper plated staino ones .

[Just_Doug]

Just looking for one because it will be easier to solder into my new condenser. I have a stainless one from Oak Stills but it's not sized correctly. It fits the tri-clamp just fine but it is undersized to solder to 3/4" pipe, it fits well into a 5/8" coupler and finding 5/8" copper is a giant pain.

Thanks, I will check out Mile HI.
D.

[RC Al]

You should be able to get there with couplers and reducers

Annealed copper is pretty easy to push around, the right sized broom handle could work as an expanding drift to make things line up.

[Dancing4dan]

You should be able to get there with couplers and reducers

Annealed copper is pretty easy to push around, the right sized broom handle could work as an expanding drift to make things line up.

+1 if you need 5/8 ID Look to Amazon for one of these…

Swaging Tool Drill Bit Set, HVAC Tools, 6pcs Professional Manual Copper Pipe Swage Tool Drill Bit Triangular Handle, Repairing Set Include 7/8'', 3/4'', 5/8'', 1/2'', 3/8'', 1/4'' Bits

M type copper can be heated to red hot then swaged to change the diameter. After being swaged the metallurgy is restored to its normal rigid characteristics.

[Just_Doug]

Thanks for all the input. I have ordered a couple more 3/4" ferrules from a different supplier. They are stainless but if they are the correct size I should be able to make them work as far as soldering goes. If not I will move on to the yet to be determined plan B.
D.

[RC Al]

The ferrule (most likely) is the right size, they are pretty much standardized, (apart from the euro iso ones) where are you?

[squigglefunk]

. I have a stainless one from Oak Stills but it's not sized correctly. It fits the tri-clamp just fine but it is undersized to solder to 3/4" pipe,

stainless is usually spec to O.D and copper to I.D.

Meaning the outside dimension of the stainless should be close to 3/4" and the inside of the copper should be 3/4" - in theory the stainless should fit inside the copper.

[Just_Doug]

RC I'm in the US.

sqiggle that was my understanding but the one I have that was listed as a 3/4" fits perfectly into a 5/8" coupling so it very undersized to put into a 3/4" pipe. Worst case I can use flour paste on that connection until I get something permanent figured out.

D.

[Windy City]

Just looking for one because it will be easier to solder into my new condenser. I have a stainless one from Oak Stills but it's not sized correctly. It fits the tri-clamp just fine but it is undersized to solder to 3/4" pipe, it fits well into a 5/8" coupler and finding 5/8" copper is a giant pain.

Thanks, I will check out Mile HI.
D.

1/2” nominal copper pipe is 5/8” OD

If you want to solder to 3/4” copper pipe I would recommend using a 1” stainless ferrule (1 1/2” clamp). Then sand the heck out of your pipe and inside the ferrule until they fit.
I have a buddy who has a machine shop and he mills the inside and leaves a little step just like a standard sweat fitting.
They solder up nice and easy

[Just_Doug]

Just looking for one because it will be easier to solder into my new condenser. I have a stainless one from Oak Stills but it's not sized correctly. It fits the tri-clamp just fine but it is undersized to solder to 3/4" pipe, it fits well into a 5/8" coupler and finding 5/8" copper is a giant pain.

Thanks, I will check out Mile HI.
D.

1/2” nominal copper pipe is 5/8” OD

If you want to solder to 3/4” copper pipe I would recommend using a 1” stainless ferrule (1 1/2” clamp). Then sand the heck out of your pipe and inside the ferrule until they fit.
I have a buddy who has a machine shop and he mills the inside and leaves a little step just like a standard sweat fitting.
They solder up nice and easy

This is what I think many new to the terms and hardware of the hobby find confusing Windy. The attached photo, from a seller of sanitary fittings, directly contradicts your person experience. Not that either one is right or wrong just that there isn't always consistency in terminology/sizing.

D.

[squigglefunk]

RC I'm in the US.

sqiggle that was my understanding but the one I have that was listed as a 3/4" fits perfectly into a 5/8" coupling so it very undersized to put into a 3/4" pipe. Worst case I can use flour paste on that connection until I get something permanent figured out.

D.

something is weird...

every copper pipe I have seen the measurement is the I.D. and the O.D. is +1/8" more or less

so...

a coupling meant to join a 5/8" pipe has an I.D. of 3/4"

[Windy City]

download/file.php?id=81988&mode=view

image.jpeg (12.4 KiB) Viewed 1699 times

Take a look at the chart you provided
All the way on the left go down to 1” and then follow that over to ID = 0.870. 3/4” copper pipe = 0.875 like I said either some elbow grease sanding or some very light machining and they work great together

[Windy City]

[Windy City]

RC I'm in the US.

sqiggle that was my understanding but the one I have that was listed as a 3/4" fits perfectly into a 5/8" coupling so it very undersized to put into a 3/4" pipe. Worst case I can use flour paste on that connection until I get something permanent figured out.

D.

something is weird...

every copper pipe I have seen the measurement is the I.D. and the O.D. is +1/8" more or less

so...

a coupling meant to join a 5/8" pipe has an I.D. of 3/4"

I was guessing he was measuring the ID of a 1/2” coupling and that is how he got 5/8”
Maybe I should not have assumed

[elbono]

Sanitary pipe OD is generally the same as nominal size as the charts above show.

US copper pipe (k, l, m stuff) the OD is nominal + 1/8" (WTF? but it is). ID varies with wall thickness.

The charts above and a copper tube dimension chart will help find stuff that fits together.

I bought some 0.020" strip from the bargain bin at basic copper to make shims for joints. It's not hard to coerce to another thickness with a hammer of appropriate weight.

In the US almost nothing called "1 inch" will actually measure 1 inch!

[Steve Broady]

In the US almost nothing called "1 inch" will actually measure 1 inch!

Definitely not the male parts, at any rate. They are always smaller than the nominal stated dimensions.

[Windy City]

Sanitary pipe OD is generally the same as nominal size as the charts above show.

US copper pipe (k, l, m stuff) the OD is nominal + 1/8" (WTF? but it is). ID varies with wall thickness.

The charts above and a copper tube dimension chart will help find stuff that fits together.

I bought some 0.020" strip from the bargain bin at basic copper to make shims for joints. It's not hard to coerce to another thickness with a hammer of appropriate weight.

In the US almost nothing called "1 inch" will actually measure 1 inch!

The OD is definitely not nominal! American Plumbing pipe is measured by ID and yes types M, L, and K have different ID based on pipe wall thickness they are very close to nominal size

[Just_Doug]

Long day yesterday so I didn't get a chance to break out the calipers but I plan on doing that tonight, assuming the battery in them still has a little life in it.

D.

[squigglefunk]

either some elbow grease sanding or some very light machining and they work great together

yes, I was able to "press fit" my stainless steel 2.5" ferrule into a 2.5" Copper pipe. I filed the inside edge of the copper and the outside edge of the stainless to get a taper going then pounded it in with a rubber mallet and a 2x4 scrap as cushion on both ends. I used no solder and there are no leaks...

as the other poster mentioned tho, I have also taken a 2" copper coupler (2.125" I.D. about 2.25" O.D.) and with a thin piece of solid copper wire as a shim between the two I was able to make a very secure solder joint.

see below, the 2" to 1/2" coupler inside the 2.5" stainless steel ferrule.

and the bottom photo you can see how the ferrule expanded the copper pipe out slightly by the faint line running around the edge of the copper... a very snug fit!

[Its_in_the_Blood]

either some elbow grease sanding or some very light machining and they work great together

yes, I was able to "press fit" my stainless steel 2.5" ferrule into a 2.5" Copper pipe. I filed the inside edge of the copper and the outside edge of the stainless to get a taper going then pounded it in with a rubber mallet and a 2x4 scrap as cushion on both ends. I used no solder and there are no leaks...

as the other poster mentioned tho, I have also taken a 2" copper coupler (2.125" I.D. about 2.25" O.D.) and with a thin piece of solid copper wire as a shim between the two I was able to make a very secure solder joint.

see below, the 2" to 1/2" coupler inside the 2.5" stainless steel ferrule.

and the bottom photo you can see how the ferrule expanded the copper pipe out slightly by the faint line running around the edge of the copper... a very snug fit!

An option if your junction seems too tight (in any future builds), and you dont want to force it/file or Dremmel it/machine it, is a "tailpipe expander." Princess Auto/Harbor Freight on special for about $15. There are two main sizes. For my purposes I bought the Ø1-1/2" to Ø2-1/8" size. The larger of the two has a larger range, starting at Ø2.125 and going up to Ø3.5, I think. Takes a bit of practice. Try to sink the whole working surface of the fingers into the pipe otherwise you'll be introducing a flare rather than expanding the sides uniformly. If you only want to expand an inch or so of pipe, then you'll have to wrap the exposed part of the tool in several hose clamps to keep the fingers parallel; loosen slightly as you go, although you really only need a few thou to loosen up your fit enough. Recommend annealing the copper to make life easier. Do it away from the edge, like more than an inch, as the edge will always want to expand more than the material further in where it is supported by the rest of the pipe and the heat will soak out to the end of the pipe anyway. Lube the lead screw, and take it in small stages using a hand wrench, backing off periodically to check, and also to rotate the tool slightly to minimize dents.

tailpipe expander.JPG (10.22 KiB) Viewed 1459 times