Wow what a story!
I just got a badmo and had not even seen this thread, rather I saw them on the tubes.
Congratulations on your growth Ben, nothing better then turning a passion into a business eh!
You make a great and innovative product!
Cheers,
Jon
JHeron wrote: ↑Mon Jan 30, 2023 7:21 pm
Wow what a story!
I just got a badmo and had not even seen this thread, rather I saw them on the tubes.
Congratulations on your growth Ben, nothing better then turning a passion into a business eh!
You make a great and innovative product!
Cheers,
Jon
Thanks, Jon! I’m as surprised as anybody, truthfully.
I’ve never said this before here, but it’s the honest truth: I’m more excited about the hope that the IDEA lives and grows than I am that my business succeeds. I’m certain that these barrels make better spirits and elevate the craft. If I keel over tomorrow I hope someone else picks it up and runs with it.
Cheers right back at you, and I hope you’ll keep in touch!
So after reading this thread until my eyes bled. And then I read even more, I decided to take the plunge on making my own while I wait until one becomes available to buy. So I have now two 6qt baine Marie’s, spigots for both and a used bourbon barrel head on the way. Not to mention a couple of new tools that I used this project as an excuse to buy well Hopefully I’ve read enough to pull it off first try. Thanks BadMo for all the tutorials! We shall see how much I learned
Sugarshane wrote: ↑Tue Feb 21, 2023 2:18 pm
So after reading this thread until my eyes bled. And then I read even more, I decided to take the plunge on making my own while I wait until one becomes available to buy. So I have now two 6qt baine Marie’s, spigots for both and a used bourbon barrel head on the way. Not to mention a couple of new tools that I used this project as an excuse to buy well Hopefully I’ve read enough to pull it off first try. Thanks BadMo for all the tutorials! We shall see how much I learned
Sugar.
Bravo! I'm really happy to hear that you're going to give it a try! Feel free to ask questions here if you hit a snag; I'll do my best to help you get past it, and other folks might benefit from the information.
Also, sorry about the eye-bleed. It's definitely a hazard around here.
I had one of my homemade BMOBs filled with bourbon begin leaking thru the face in several places. It had been filled for just a few weeks. That specific piece of oak was somewhat checked and had several small cracks that ended up not sealing well. So I made a new head and pressed it into place. It was a tiny bit more snug than the previous one. When I started filling it with water to swell and seal it, the bain marie can split.
This was one of the Winco BMs that has no taper from the top to the middle. I recently bought 6 Thunder Group BMs (from Tiger Chef, total with shipping < $100), which are fully tapered top to bottom, and decided to weigh the two. The Winco was 1 lb 9 oz, the TG was 2 lbs, 1.5 oz. Both of these are 8.25 qt Bain Maries.
I re-sized the head and it fit into a TG can just fine, so was able to put my bourbon back into the can and get it back to aging.
I bought 5 once used 3"+ bourbon barrel staves (smelled great when I sawed them) and made a barrel head from one stave and pressed into a TG can. I couldn't get the bung to seal (my tapered reamer is hand driven - too large to fit in a drill chuck) so I used a T-top from an empty whiskey bottle - worked great. Once there was no more leakage I filled that BMOB with a Single Malt.
Just want to thank BadMotivator once again for sharing his knowledge and process for making BadMo barrels.
JJB11B wrote: ↑Sat Feb 25, 2023 9:39 am
I am thinking of putting a turntable on my table saw and kicking the blade out a few degrees from 90 to shape the top? Sound stupid or good?
I tried the table saw on my first crack and the dowels didn't hold the wood together so something to be weary of. I did pull it apart to put beeswax in though which I haven't bothered with on the last three with no issues yet.
I use the table saw for jointing though as the jointer I have access to chomps way too much wood and doesn't provide a smooth surface. I just use one side of the table saw for one piece of oak and the other side of the saw for the other side. Seems to work fine.
I have got a table saw at home and I'm going to try doing shaping the head for a 6L can that I want to do to "double barrel" some whisky I've had on staves for a year. I'll clamp the head as some insurance against the splitting though.
Bravo! I'm really happy to hear that you're going to give it a try! Feel free to ask questions here if you hit a snag; I'll do my best to help you get past it, and other folks might benefit from the information.
Also, sorry about the eye-bleed. It's definitely a hazard around here.
[/quote]
Thanks badmo. Between all your YouTube vids and this thread hopefully all problems I could run into will have been covered only time will tell though. And the eyes bleeding was welcomed it’s just been more informative than my brain can compute at once . Side note I’m just north of you in the panhandle of Idaho.
JJB11B wrote: ↑Sat Feb 25, 2023 9:39 am
I am thinking of putting a turntable on my table saw and kicking the blade out a few degrees from 90 to shape the top? Sound stupid or good?
That sounds like a great idea to me! I was planning to build jigs for my band saw and disc sander for roughing and finishing heads, but I might try my table saw instead.
A couple thoughts:
1) You probably don't need "a few degrees." One degree or less ought to do it.
2) You're not going to get a perfectly conical cut. Depending on how the barrel head contacts the blade, it will end up with a slightly concave or convex edge. But maybe that's not a bad thing?
JJB11B wrote: ↑Sat Feb 25, 2023 9:39 am
I am thinking of putting a turntable on my table saw and kicking the blade out a few degrees from 90 to shape the top? Sound stupid or good?
I did a jig with a nail on which I put the head. I then rotate the head a couple of degrees and cut, rotate and cut, rotate and cut, so lots of little tiny cuts to get close to a circle. To solve the problem of the saw grabbing and trying to pull the individual boards apart I just use painters tape on the seams. So far it has held them enough.
So I tried using the table saw today for the head shaping but to not much effect. The issue being that I could cut the lower section but when I tried to use the top of the saw, the saw just got pushed back by the wood. I don't know enough to know if a different blade would be better than the standard one that came with my fancy ALDI table saw.
Joniah, I’m not 100% sure what problem you’re describing, but you can try making the cut in multiple passes. Raise the blade only enough to cut 1/4” deep or so, then cut the full circle. Raise the led by 1/4” (or whatever your saw can handle), make another cut, and keep repeating until you’re all the way through.
Learn from the past, live in the present, change the future.
Steve Broady wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 2:26 am
Joniah, I’m not 100% sure what problem you’re describing, but you can try making the cut in multiple passes. Raise the blade only enough to cut 1/4” deep or so, then cut the full circle. Raise the led by 1/4” (or whatever your saw can handle), make another cut, and keep repeating until you’re all the way through.
That makes sense, I was moving the jig left to right with the blade at full height. I'll have another try today, much appreciate the advice!
It sounds like you’re just overloading the saw. A new, sharp blade might also help.
I would clamp the jig down and CAREFULLY feed the wood into the blade, rotating it slowly. Straight cuts are great for removing the bulk of the material, but I’d use a rotating cut for the final pass to ensure a perfectly smooth circle. But remember that the blade only cuts at the teeth, so don’t ever let wood put pressure anywhere else on the blade.
Learn from the past, live in the present, change the future.
My jig has "legs" at the front and the back that allow me to slice the jig against the fence. Then I can move the entire jig back and forth making straight cuts as Steve suggested. I never try and rotate the head into the blade. I pull the jig back, rotate the head 2 degrees of rotation and then make another cut, pull back, rotate, push for straight cut, repeat. 120 to 160 tiny straight cuts around the circumference of the head is close enough to round.
Much better using the static jig and lifting the saw very slowly. 11/10 wouldn't recommend this method. Band saw all the way for me from now on. 10 min on a band saw vs forever with this method for me.
jonlah wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 5:29 pm
Much better using the static jig and lifting the saw very slowly. 11/10 wouldn't recommend this method. Band saw all the way for me from now on. 10 min on a band saw vs forever with this method for me.
I agree folks. The table saw method can work but the risks are really huge. I used the table saw for circle-cutting a few times and then noped out of there. I would rather see people making rough circles with a hand-held jigsaw and then sanding it to perfectly round. Of course, a cheap band saw is better still.
Badmotivator wrote: ↑Wed Mar 01, 2023 5:59 pm
I agree folks. The table saw method can work but the risks are really huge. I used the table saw for circle-cutting a few times and then noped out of there. I would rather see people making rough circles with a hand-held jigsaw and then sanding it to perfectly round. Of course, a cheap band saw is better still.
Yeah I spent the whole time worried about my fingers. Got there in the end but 100% agree it is a nope from me.
When making mine I got a perfectly adequate fit by eye. Marked. Circle with a compas and bansawed it out carefully then sanded to the line with a spacer under one end to provide the taper.
Because the stainless has some give and the head swells anyway I was able to get a watertight seal . Jigs are nice and everything but not totally nessecary in this instance in my opinion.
The difficult part was guessing the size since I wasn't able to get a good measurement on my slightly out of round stainless pot . In the end I just sanded till it went in 5-6mm then hammered it home. Worked for me.
Knife_man wrote: ↑Fri Mar 03, 2023 9:25 am
When making mine I got a perfectly adequate fit by eye. Marked. Circle with a compas and bansawed it out carefully then sanded to the line with a spacer under one end to provide the taper.
Because the stainless has some give and the head swells anyway I was able to get a watertight seal . Jigs are nice and everything but not totally nessecary in this instance in my opinion.
The difficult part was guessing the size since I wasn't able to get a good measurement on my slightly out of round stainless pot . In the end I just sanded till it went in 5-6mm then hammered it home. Worked for me.
Excellent info for those about to attempt their first barrel! Thanks for writing that up.
You reminded me (and it should be emphasized here) that my first were pretty “manual” too, and while I love my jigs for speed, ease, repeatability, precision, etc. you can totally go for it without most of my conveniences. Bravo!
Badmotivator wrote: ↑Sat Mar 04, 2023 9:25 pm
Excellent info for those about to attempt their first barrel! Thanks for writing that up.
You reminded me (and it should be emphasized here) that my first were pretty “manual” too, and while I love my jigs for speed, ease, repeatability, precision, etc. you can totally go for it without most of my conveniences. Bravo!
I learned a long time ago that if your only making a few of something then usually the time and effort put into making a jig would be better spent just making the product.
When your making more than a few of course jigs are a godsend and some of your jigs are absolutly top notch .
All I know is my table saw is the scariest piece of equipment that I own. I treat her with upmost respect and she still likes to try and bite me every now and then. They are evil machines, at least mine is. I use to make Damascus knives. The 2000F forge, the forging press, molten salt heat treat, 25 pound power hammer at 3 hits per second, 2HP belt grinder with no guarding, band saw, mill/drill, etc. never struck fear in me like the table saw does. That is one piece of equipment that I am always completely sober while operating. I learned from my one minor mistake. Ahaha.
Laredo7mm wrote: ↑Sun Mar 05, 2023 1:44 pm
All I know is my table saw is the scariest piece of equipment that I own. I treat her with upmost respect and she still likes to try and bite me every now and then. They are evil machines, at least mine is. I use to make Damascus knives. The 2000F forge, the forging press, molten salt heat treat, 25 pound power hammer at 3 hits per second, 2HP belt grinder with no guarding, band saw, mill/drill, etc. never struck fear in me like the table saw does. That is one piece of equipment that I am always completely sober while operating. I learned from my one minor mistake. Ahaha.
I have all those tools, except the power hammer, I think the Belt grinder would be good for putting the bevel on as well, use a fresh 120 grit belt on the 2x72 set the work rest at your angle then just be careful. probably would be better than the tablesaw idea having the VFD so you can slow down and control it better will be nice too
I've got a 30x30 wood CNC that could be programmed easily enough to cut a tapered circle out of a solid piece of wood. Could do the same for the holes as well.
"In the silence of the study one can discuss theories, but only in practice one becomes an artist" - Meunier