5 gallon keg for spirt run.

[utvol]

I saw on another page people using a 15 gallon keg for their stripping run and then use a 5 gallon keg for thir spirit run.

I have never thought about doing this.

I have done 6 gallon runs in my 15 gallon keg with no issues. I was thinking a smaller keg may it harder to scorch but i was also thinking that my still may not very stable on a smaller keg.

Do any of you have experience with this?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Salt Must Flow]

A smaller keg wouldn't be harder to scorch because both kegs are identical other than one being shorter than the other. As you've already noticed, there's no issues with doing smaller runs with a 15.5 gal keg. When I first started out, I set up a 15.5 gal and a 7.5 gal keg with swiveling casters, 6" ferrule on top, 2" ferrule for heating element, bottom drain with spigot, thermowell before I realized that there's no advantage having a smaller boiler. It takes the exact same amount of liquid to cover the elements in both boilers. Now I only use that 7.5 gal boiler to dump all the product into after cuts and use the bottom drain to spigot it into glass gallon jugs. I just haven't found any other practical use for it yet.

[Dancing4dan]

I use full sized keg boiler for stripping and half size for spirit runs most times. Size is determined by volume to be stilled. Electric element that gets switched from keg to keg as needed.

[utvol]

A smaller keg wouldn't be harder to scorch because both kegs are identical other than one being shorter than the other. As you've already noticed, there's no issues with doing smaller runs with a 15.5 gal keg. When I first started out, I set up a 15.5 gal and a 7.5 gal keg with swiveling casters, 6" ferrule on top, 2" ferrule for heating element, bottom drain with spigot, thermowell before I realized that there's no advantage having a smaller boiler. It takes the exact same amount of liquid to cover the elements in both boilers. Now I only use that 7.5 gal boiler to dump all the product into after cuts and use the bottom drain to spigot it into glass gallon jugs. I just haven't found any other practical use for it yet.

SMFF,

My 5 gallon keg is like the attached. It's 9 inches wide as opposed to 16 inches. That is why I thought it would not scorch as easy.

[still_stirrin]

… My 5 gallon keg is like the attached. It's 9 inches wide as opposed to 16 inches. That is why I thought it would not scorch as easy.

Why do you think a smaller diameter is less likely to scorch (for direct fire)?

It would actually be the opposite. A larger diameter presents a greater surface for the heat to transfer, meaning a less “concentrated temperature differential”. Considering the same amount of heat input over a larger area would give the same amount of vapor generation, yet with less focused heat, ie - hot spots.

A similar analogy would be for electric elements, that is with a larger surface area in contact with the fluid you’re trying to heat, like a ULWD element, the lower propensity to scorch because local temperatures won’t get as hot. High watt density elements get hotter as a “point source” compared to the ULWD elements.

So, the 16” diameter keg would spread the flame over a larger area, so local spots wouldn’t need to get as hot while transferring the heat (BTUs or Joules depending on where you’re from).

But, you’ve got what you’ve got. So, use it wisely … and don’t misunderstand the physics behind our hobby.
ss

[utvol]

… My 5 gallon keg is like the attached. It's 9 inches wide as opposed to 16 inches. That is why I thought it would not scorch as easy.

Why do you think a smaller diameter is less likely to scorch (for direct fire)?

It would actually be the opposite. A larger diameter presents a greater surface for the heat to transfer, meaning a less “concentrated temperature differential”. Considering the same amount of heat input over a larger area would give the same amount of vapor generation, yet with less focused heat, ie - hot spots.

A similar analogy would be for electric elements, that is with a larger surface area in contact with the fluid you’re trying to heat, like a ULWD element, the lower propensity to scorch because local temperatures won’t get as hot. High watt density elements get hotter as a “point source” compared to the ULWD elements.

So, the 16” diameter keg would spread the flame over a larger area, so local spots wouldn’t need to get as hot while transferring the heat (BTUs or Joules depending on where you’re from).

But, you’ve got what you’ve got. So, use it wisely … and don’t misunderstand the physics behind our hobby.
ss

I am no physicist just a guy with a hobby. Yes, direct fire. Maybe i did not word my sentence correctly but my line of thought is that if you put 6 gallons in a 15 gallon keg it would be say 4 inches of liquid. ( I made that number up) but on a 9 inch wide keg the liquid would be deeper so less likely to scorch. But again just a hobbyist and not a physicist. Is my train of thought just wrong?

[elbono]

I found 4 of those 19.5 liter kegs for 20USD total, $5 each. I couldn't resist so I'm headed that way. I just started using electric heat and they seemed great for welding practice too.

With electric heat the smaller diameter means less is required to cover the element, on gas the smaller diameter would increase the chance of scorching but I've thrown a lot of propane at the bottom of a keg and haven't scorched yet.

Where I put my elements means I need 3250 ml to cover the element in the skinny guy and 9950 ml to cover the element in my 58 liter keg. That is a pretty good ratio to do strips the the big one and spirits in the small one.


I'm using a triple U element so I can get 5500W in less than 9" length. I need to know the surface area of a double wavy element so I can calculate the difference in watt density. I have a feeling it's not a lot.

[NZChris]

Over the years I've accumulated a variety of boiler sizes, so I have stills that can spirit run the low wines from the next size up. It's only something I do for experimental ferments and it works very well for those, but I wouldn't make a habit of doing that for products that need to be made in large volumes to quickly build up stock ready for years of aging.

For rum, whiskey, neutral, etc., I always ferment at least enough for a full charge of low wines for the same boiler..