Help with Vevor upgrades. How to measure fittings

[Tinkers-Poitín]

I'm trying to source some bits and pieces to help me move the condenser off the top of my still and maybe replace some of the brass and I have little other option other than to order online.

What am I looking at when ordering? Thread size? Bore size?

I'm sorry if it's a stupid question. I'm not getting any joy from Google. Plumbing definitely isn't my trade so I don't know what I'm looking at and I didn't know where else to ask. I wish there was still a family owned business local to me where you can walk in with a fitting in your hand and they'd just tell you "It's a 9 by 14, you need and you'll want it bevelled" and then they charge you 24 pence.


While I'm advertising my ignorance, I might as well double check. Something like a stainless steel flexible tap connector would be appropriate for vapour wouldn't it?

Thanks in advance.

[still_stirrin]

Not a mindreader. Got a photo or 2?

[Tinkers-Poitín]

Not a mindreader. Got a photo or 2?

Apologies, this is my first post outside of the welcome center.

[juana_b]

From the other side of earth it looks like 3/8"OD flare to me. Maybe you could bring that section with you next time you're passing by a hardware store.

[greggn]

Something like a stainless steel flexible tap connector would be appropriate for vapour wouldn't it?

If you mean something like this ... no, the SS outer braid only covers an internal core of PVC. It's NOT compatible with ethanol.





If, on the other hand, you're referring to CSST (as is often used as a reflux condenser in CCVM still heads, without the yellow coating) ... yes, that IS compatible with ethanol.

[Tinkers-Poitín]

Maybe you could bring that section with you next time you're passing by a hardware store.

I'd love nothing more but my local hardware store is a big national chain staffed by young people and best will in the world to them but they're just there to draw a wage. They don't actually know much about what they stock.

I'd need to start bringing it to the pub in the hopes of striking up a conversation with a plumber in the smoking area.

Thanks for your help. Those dimensions are something I can look into.

[Tinkers-Poitín]

Something like a stainless steel flexible tap connector would be appropriate for vapour wouldn't it?

If you mean something like this ... no, the SS outer braid only covers an internal core of PVC. It's NOT compatible with ethanol.

Thanks because this is exactly what I would have bought. This community is a wealth of knowledge.

[MooseMan]

Can't promise I will be able to help remotely, but I'll try.

I'm guessing you are UK based since you said "Pence" so that's a start!

Do you have or can you get hold of, a Vernier calipers?
Even a plastic set will do to get a fairly accurate measurement on the tube.
It looks like 10mm (Or 3/8" which is just over 9.5mm from memory) so all you'd have to do is cut it back behind the fittings, solder on a straight connector to each end and fit a length of 10mm copper between the connectors.

To gauge where you are on a DIY level, does that make sense at all?

[cob]

Have you read this yet? viewtopic.php?t=89172

vevor in the search bar brings up lots of info.....And some bashing.

[Tinkers-Poitín]

Can't promise I will be able to help remotely, but I'll try.

I'm guessing you are UK based since you said "Pence" so that's a start!

Do you have or can you get hold of, a Vernier calipers?
Even a plastic set will do to get a fairly accurate measurement on the tube.
It looks like 10mm (Or 3/8" which is just over 9.5mm from memory) so all you'd have to do is cut it back behind the fittings, solder on a straight connector to each end and fit a length of 10mm copper between the connectors.

To gauge where you are on a DIY level, does that make sense at all?

I followed all of that.

Thanks for your help.

[Tinkers-Poitín]

Have you read this yet? viewtopic.php?t=89172

vevor in the search bar brings up lots of info.....And some bashing.

I have, I'm working through the suggested upgrades. I've replaced all the silicone with PFTE already but I've hit a stumbling block with all these different fittings and sizes when trying to move the condenser off the top of the still and replacing the brass.

If you need a pig gutted, I'm your man but I'm still learning my spigots from my gaskets. Lol

[Laredo7mm]

Check out page #4 of this PDF. It might point you in the right direction.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/B1EidzGtgdL.pdf

[Tinkers-Poitín]

Check out page #4 of this PDF. It might point you in the right direction.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/B1EidzGtgdL.pdf

Well that's just exactly what I need.

I'm astounded by how helpful and knowledgeable everyone on this forum is.

Thanks very much.

[Steve Broady]

Unfortunately, there are several very similar and not quite compatible plumbing fitting standards around the world. I found that my Vevor clone came with fittings that didn’t quite match anything I could get locally. By measuring the thread pitch and OD I was able to compare to various standards I joined and figure out what they were, but my solution was to replace every piece with comparable parts that I could get locally. In my case, I found that 1/2” MPT (male pipe thread, US spec) was just right with a little fettling, so I used copper sweat to MPT adapters and then 1/2” copper pipe from there.

Try taking a fitting off and just walk around the plumbing section of your hardware store. Even the big box ones usually have some kind of fittings chart if other physical comparator that you can check the fit against. No expert help needed.

As a side note, you should not need PTFE tape on a flare fitting. The taper on the end of the fitting fits into the flare on the copper line and forms a metal to metal seal. If that’s still leaking, either tighten it or address the larger issue.

[MooseMan]

my solution was to replace every piece with comparable parts that I could get locally. In my case, I found that 1/2” MPT (male pipe thread, US spec) was just right with a little fettling, so I used copper sweat to MPT adapters and then 1/2” copper pipe from there.

I was going to suggest that Tinkers do this actually Steve, but wasn't sure on his level of DIY capability.

That would be the best way to go if you can Tinkers, as you can get rid of all the brass fittings at the same time.
Copper/Stainless/PTFE are the only things that should really be in contact with the product in your still.

[Steve Broady]

I was going to suggest that Tinkers do this actually Steve, but wasn't sure on his level of DIY capability.

Several years ago, I wrote a series of articles for a model railroading magazine in which I tackled what is seen as a very advanced topic, building models from scratch. In the introduction, I made the point that while it can be daunting, it’s really just a series of simple steps which anyone is capable of. All that is required is being willing to try it for the first time.

I think that point applies equally well here. To those who say they can’t build a still because they don’t have the DIY experience or skill, I say that all they need is to be willing to try. Obviously there are people with physical limitations, but for the vast majority of us it’s well within reach. It’s up to us to encourage people, and to hold the door open. I’m no expert on metal working or still building or design or operation, but what I do know well is that I’m able to learn, and I can do my best to encourage others to do so as well.

[MooseMan]

Very good point, I enjoy helping people out where I can too.

It does seem like a fairly easy job when your accustomed to doing mechanical stuff, but can be daunting to those with little hands on experience.

[Tinkers-Poitín]

As a side note, you should not need PTFE tape on a flare fitting. The taper on the end of the fitting fits into the flare on the copper line and forms a metal to metal seal. If that’s still leaking, either tighten it or address the larger issue.

It's not leaking, I just like a boots and braces approach

Thanks for your input Steve and Moose. I appreciate it.

[Rum Agol]

Tinkers take the pipe off the lid ( it looks like 15mm to me ) and take it with you to a local plumbers merchants - they'll be able to help you. If that's not an option then take it to B&Q and compare it for size to the fittings there. They also do a 300mm long 15mm flexible copper pipe which you could perhaps use.

[wallstreet4386]

I just did the same thing with my Seeutek still. The problem you will encounter is that the fittings are not to US specs - different thread pitch and different flare length (smaller). I had to get a couple of flair fittings (3/8") along with matching flair bolts along with a flair tool.

For the fitting that goes through the lid, you will want flair thread on the flair fitting side and either compression or pipe thread on the non-flair side.

I took some extra copper pipe and bent it to the shape I wanted. I'll grab a few photos for you and post (if I can). I still have the brass fittings though.

[EdGrog]

W

Was surprised by friend who ordered this for me and didn't say anything definitely need to move condenser the way it's set up so trip to hardware store for me

[Reveler8111]

You’ve got lots of advice for replacing the brass. As for moving it off just bend the stainless tubing out straighter and set it on an upside down pot or something off to the side.

[Sandpaper Spirits]

Hi Tinkers, I'm in exactly the same position as you were a year ago... I'm also in the UK and struggling to find replacements for the vevor brass fittings - were you able to find some in the end? Any pointers would be great, cheers.