Simple Beer Keg Pot Still?

[MooseMan]

@Mooseman: How long would you recommend?

Well, this is what I did.

viewtopic.php?t=89846

I have 2x 2.2kw elements, so a total of 4.4kw max heat input with a well insulated boiler.

[The Baker]

If you use three swivel castors it will cope more readily than four with an uneven floor.

Geoff

[deanodeano]

Time for me to stop talking and start doing.

[MooseMan]

Time for me to stop talking and start doing.

Bravo!

I look forward to seeing what you create Dean.

Moose

[Wildcats]

Time for me to stop talking and start doing.

I for one look forward to seeing how/what you come up with. Good luck sir. I hope the solder flows the way you want. Cheer's

[zach]

If I were starting from scratch, this is the keg I would purchase for a boiler. Sure it's fun to learn to solder, but this set up has 4" on top and multiple 1.5" tri clamps for heaters and a drain valves.

https://www.gwkent.com/15-gallon-semi-keg.html

[BrewinBrian44]

If I were starting from scratch, this is the keg I would purchase for a boiler. Sure it's fun to learn to solder, but this set up has 4" on top and multiple 1.5" tri clamps for heaters and a drain valves.

https://www.gwkent.com/15-gallon-semi-keg.html

Wow. That’s a great deal.

[shadylane]

A readymade boiler at a great price.
Next thing Ya know, someone is going to start selling bread that's already sliced.

[Salt Must Flow]

It's unfortunate, but side drains like that keg has really aren't great. In order for them to drain almost completely there needs to be a hose connected to it so it can siphon the level down. Without a hose, the keg can only drain to the level of the port on the side. I used to have a couple of boilers with a side drain and I don't miss them at all. Now I use bottom drains and they drain perfectly. 'Ready-made' keg boilers like that typically don't use bottom drains because then they would have to fabricate legs, feet or casters to prop them off of the floor which raises the cost and the price tag. That specific keg boiler requires additional fittings just to accommodate a valve which will add cost. This is just another example why it is usually ideal to 'do it yourself'. I do all the work myself, but take it to a local guy who TIG welds. I've found kegs for free, kegs for cheap and kegs for around $100. The cost for some parts, with a little DIY work with a grinder ... it's all ready to be welded up nice exactly the way you want it. Costs less too.

[shadylane]

It's got a racking arm that could be modified for a drain.
I figure it could syphon out 99% or more of the spent wash without having to tip the keg.
That and with a little extra plumbing it could be used as a fill port.
So, Ya wouldn't have to remove the column to charge the boiler.

[Salt Must Flow]

It's got a racking arm that could be modified for a drain.
I figure it could syphon out 99% or more of the spent wash without having to tip the keg.
That and with a little extra plumbing it could be used as a fill port.
So, Ya wouldn't have to remove the column to charge the boiler.

It 'could' siphon out almost all of the boiler using that racking arm pointed straight down, but only IF it had a hose or a long spout that extends at least as low as the bottom of the exterior of the keg. Without a hose or a long spout, the keg can only drain to the level of the port in the side and can never fully drain without tipping it a lot. That racking arm is practically useless for draining the keg without a hose or a long spout. It is unfortunate, but true.

[Saltbush Bill]

For what it is , it seems good buying to me, I'm not that lazy yet that I cant tilt the keg to one side to get the last of the hot slops out after a run.
On the other hand the thread title is " Simple Beer Keg Pot Still" Some of the suggestions so far seem to be wandering a long way from that mark.

[Yummyrum]

I’ve been using an unmolested Keg for about a decade and it has served me well . Sure it has it’s hassles , but you find work arounds .

To empty my keg , I made an attachment that I put in the keg and attach my air compressor . It basically forces the liquid out . I can empty a boiler even while hot in about 3-5 min . Put the hose in the sink or run it outside … where ever .
If I had a drain port on Keg , I’d probably need a pump or have to fill buckets etc .

[Wildcats]

Nice work around. Sure beats dumping the keg out. I like it. I might be coping this idea. Thank you Sir.

[Yummyrum]

Nice work around. Sure beats dumping the keg out. I like it. I might be coping this idea. Thank you Sir.

Pleasure Wildcats and go for it .
I used to be able to lift a spent keg and dump it , but I’m getting too old for that shit .

[Beefer]

I can relate Yummy and wildcats - I' try not to notice that I'm stronger in memory than reality. I have my keg on a wheelie stand and move it into the main bathroom when the kids are with their mum. A cheap pond pump in the bathtub covers me for cooling water and the drain cover screws out so I can gravity drain the spent wash.

[still_stirrin]

… To empty my keg, I made an attachment …

Brilliant Yummy! Now that’s engineering. I like it!
ss

[MooseMan]

I’ve been using an unmolested Keg for about a decade and it has served me well . Sure it has it’s hassles , but you find work arounds .

To empty my keg , I made an attachment that I put in the keg and attach my air compressor . It basically forces the liquid out . I can empty a boiler even while hot in about 3-5 min . Put the hose in the sink or run it outside … where ever .
If I had a drain port on Keg , I’d probably need a pump or have to fill buckets etc .

IMG_8613.jpegIMG_8614.jpeg

Bloody hell I like that, genius man!

[deanodeano]

@Mooseman: How long would you recommend?

Well, this is what I did.

viewtopic.php?t=89846

I have 2x 2.2kw elements, so a total of 4.4kw max heat input with a well insulated boiler.

Excellent! Thank you.

[namednad]

Here's another option.
Have a taper so the tri-clamp pulls it into the keg and use cotton string for the seal.

That's kinda how Snuffy Smith did it in the cartoons.

[deanodeano]

[img

IMG_1759.JPG (3.25 KiB) Viewed 5313 times

][/img]

Candy store!

[deanodeano]

I am accumulating parts for the head. I can buy a 2 inch copper ferrule. Why do some builder use a stainless steel ferrule? It is less hassle to solder copper to copper rather than copper to stainless steel.

[Salt Must Flow]

I am accumulating parts for the head. I can buy a 2 inch copper ferrule. Why do some builder use a stainless steel ferrule? It is less hassle to solder copper to copper rather than copper to stainless steel.

Mainly because stainless ferrules are much cheaper. I've had success and struggles soldering stainless ferrules. Copper ferrules were always much easier and got them all on the first try. With skill you can pay less using stainless ferrules.

[deanodeano]

@Mooseman: How long would you recommend?

Well, this is what I did.

viewtopic.php?t=89846

Wow, 1400 mm, that is what, 55+ inches? There is a joke in there somewhere

[Yummyrum]

Mines about the same length.It can easily handle gas turned up so high that the flames are lapping up the sides of the keg .

And with that much flame , you’ll be pleased your collection end is that far away

[MooseMan]

I don't think I could even provide enough power to overwhelm my Liebig, it's crazy efficient at that length with just a drizzle of water going through it, and I've found the length to be a positive rather than an issue, but not for the same reasons as Yummy.

I'm on electric as I said, but the thought of flames licking up the sides of my boiler as Yummy describes, makes me shiver in fear!

[Saltbush Bill]

Why do some builder use a stainless steel ferrule? It is less hassle to solder copper to copper rather than copper to stainless steel.

Another less obvious reason , and I have, and have used ,and have built with both,.
Copper ferules are much softer ....drop that module of your still on a cement floor or other hard surface and you will see.
Stainless ferules don't bend , twist or distort when handled roughly........and its really not that hard to connect it to copper, you just need high silver content hard solder, more heat and the right flux.
Good too see you jumping in at the deep end and having a go at building your first still Deano......be careful that you don't become addicted and end up with 4-5 stills like some people that I know.

[Wildcats]

I am accumulating parts for the head. I can buy a 2 inch copper ferrule. Why do some builder use a stainless steel ferrule? It is less hassle to solder copper to copper rather than copper to stainless steel.

I used copper ferrules for my build because I had never tried to solder stainless steel to copper before. But I have done a lot of copper to copper soldering before and that's what I was comfortable with.
The very first time I did a stripping run... I dropped my condenser and it left a small dent/ distortion in the flange. I took a hammer and bent it back. It was very disturbing to say the least. Now I make sure to handle my still parts with much more care. If I had it to do over again I think I will give stainless steel ferrules a try. I could have saved money on the ferrules and not have to worry as much about mishandling the still parts. I really like the ease of copper to copper soldering though. Good luck sir.

[deanodeano]

Please critique this pot still head design. What should I change? I know the drafting is gorgeous...

[Sporacle]

Deano, I would have all the reducers as close to vertical as possible to reduce smearing.

Personally I would mirror the first 2inch 90 and have either a triclamp fitting between them or...

Mirror the 90 and go vertically to the reducer then the 45 and use a union fitting for your liebig, you will need to support the liebig.

I'll draw my original head and post it