Question for welders

[Tōtōchtin]

After feeling the weight of what going to be hanging off my still I believe it would be better for me to weld the ferrules on that would be under my columns. I can't get a tig out to the ranch. I was going to braze them with 35% silver but I doubt my torch would be hot enough even with this fake MAP gas I can get,that and I haven't done this type of work for 30 years.
My question is do any of you believe I would have any problems using
AWIL E 308L-16 sticks to glue my ferrules on. I have too much time in this to fuck things up now.
Thanks in advance for your time as always,
Tōtō

[zed255]

If you are going to stick weld them on be sure to either use a protective flux on the backside, like Solar Flux 'B', or purge with Argon. Otherwise you will get sugaring.

[Salt Must Flow]

I don't own a welder so I do all of the work and bring the parts over to a local guy who does the TIG welding for me. I do all of the finish work, grinding, etc... If you can just bring the parts to the TIG guy, that would be better than trying to stick weld it yourself.

[Deplorable]

I have full faith in Staybrite silver solder. I soldered a 3 inch ss ferrule to the top of my SS boiler lid and that joint is strong enough to withstand me tipping a full 13 gallon boiler 45 degrees pulling on the top of my 24 inch tall still head. If a soldered joint can handle that, it can handle any minor oscillation induced by a 4 to 6 plate flute. Solder that shit and run it!

[still_stirrin]

I paid a professional sanitary welder to do my welding. Strong and clean. “Buy once … cry once”. Investment in “tools” is easily justified with the quality of your build. It’ll last longer and operate safer. I can’t recommend a “cheap way out”. Besides, is that really what you want with your equipment?
ss

[Sporacle]

You can achieve a good weld with a simple stick and rod.
Pre heat and tack, understand your amps and the way SS heats up and your away.
Flux the backside if you want.
Just remember if you start blowing holes, you need to be able to fix them.
Here's a 4 inch ferrule on a 80L keg.
2mm rod on 80amps

[The Baker]

Support the weight of your condenser and whatever with a bracket from an upright in the wall or a rope from the ceiling
or an upright metal fitting from a floor plate...

Geoff

[Tōtōchtin]

I thank you all for your advice. I live hours from a city. Living in the country my municipal/county would know what I'm up too an hour later. I try one fitting,if that look like shit I'll solder the rest.I am trying to make this bulletproof. I want to give it to my Godson when I'm gone, so I'm trying to make a solid idiot proof still for him. Otherwise It would be cheaper for me to buy a couple of cases of single barrel. I found this hobby too late in life.
Tōtō

[Tōtōchtin]

Sorry for such a morose post, I lost two longtime friend last weekend. To top it off a family member thought they would give me a push and have a friend take my 30 liter keg and had a ferrule welded for me. I was amazed that the ferrule didn't warp as the top of the keg buckled. Looks like he tried to weld with a rosebud. I just ordered 5 varillas of 35%, If my still is gonna get fucked up it might as well be by me.
Now I'm debating just using my 3 60 liters and buy a 10 liter for recipe development.But I like the idea of the 30 being used as a second retort ,a boiler/still on its own or as a stream generator.(just had a small earthquake)
Tōtō