Modular Build

[brewbob]

I've been working on a new build. Going to be a 3" plate column, still waiting on some parts to show up. Dephlegmator is 8" long with four 1/2"x6" tubes and a thermowell. Condenser is 14 " long with four 1/2" tubes. Water inlet/outlets are 1/2", I'll use sharkbite fittings and pex to connect to water source. I'll probably end up making a tee so I can also run a VM configuration. I have a 2"x1/2" ftg x ftg on the way, hard to find and expensive but I like the idea of the TC ferrules fitting directly into the coupler. I have a 32" long 2" riser I might have to pack so I can play with it a little before the plate column is finished. I'm open to all comments, good or bad.

[Deplorable]

Looks good so far, I'm interested is seeing how well four 1/2" vapor tubes in a 3" defleg performs for you.

[brewbob]

Looks good so far, I'm interested is seeing how well four 1/2" vapor tubes in a 3" defleg performs for you.

Thanks. I've been wondering the same thing. If it can't knock everything down I'll build a 3" deph. I had a broken wrist and couldn't work for 5 weeks, had all this copper sitting in the corner so I just started building to past the time.


Edit. This is all 2".

[Deplorable]

I guess I should have paid closer attention. That's four each 1/2" tubes in a 2" shell for the defleg. Got it now.

[still_stirrin]

brewbob,

Like Deplorable, I’m a little concerned that your product condenser is not long enough to knock down your vapor through-put.

With only four 1/2” ID tubes that are only 14” long, when you push it hard (like a 3” riser is capable of) you may find that you push some vapor out of the spout.

If you had a longer shotgun, then it would help. Or, if you’d have used 3/8” ID tubing (with more tubes in the tube bank) instead of 1/2” pipe, the condensing surface area toe vapor velocity would give better heat transfer. My advice is to make sure the product shotgun is always run in a vertical orientation as well.

Oh, and the problem won’t be on the water jacket side. Rather it’s the dwell time the vapor makes in contact with the conducting surface area (the vapor tubes). Slower vapor velocity improves the dwell such that the vapor (product) can give up its heat and condense.

If when you run it hard and it “burps” vapor out of the end, you’ll have to reduce the heat input. And that, in turn, will likely reduce the reflux ratio and you may experience the purity at the spout fall.
ss

[brewbob]

brewbob,

Like Deplorable, I’m a little concerned that your product condenser is not long enough to knock down your vapor through-put.

With only four 1/2” ID tubes that are only 14” long, when you push it hard (like a 3” riser is capable of) you may find that you push some vapor out of the spout.

If you had a longer shotgun, then it would help. Or, if you’d have used 3/8” ID tubing (with more tubes in the tube bank) instead of 1/2” pipe, the condensing surface area toe vapor velocity would give better heat transfer. My advice is to make sure the product shotgun is always run in a vertical orientation as well.

Oh, and the problem won’t be on the water jacket side. Rather it’s the dwell time the vapor makes in contact with the conducting surface area (the vapor tubes). Slower vapor velocity improves the dwell such that the vapor (product) can give up its heat and condense.

If when you run it hard and it “burps” vapor out of the end, you’ll have to reduce the heat input. And that, in turn, will likely reduce the reflux ratio and you may experience the purity at the spout fall.
ss

Thank you, good to know.

Most of the time this will be setup as a pot still. I love the looks of a flute, always wanted to build one. Guess I might get to do it again when my 3" shows up, keeping this in mind.

I run on propane, not the strongest burner. With my pot and a 36" liebig, 1/2" inside 1", I can almost run full power. Would this shotgun in pot still mode, 2" empty riser, work better than the liebig? With what you said it's making me think. More surface area in the shotgun and splits the vapor, would that result in slower vapor speed increasing dwell?


Edit. My burner will get first drip around 45 min and be stabilized at 1 hr with 15 gals in the boiler. I can strip at a constant 1 gal per hour and never have vapor out the spout. If this shotgun won't match that performance I guess I built a shiny thing to hang on the wall buy my bar. Maybe just use it for the slow spirit runs.

[Deplorable]

Most of the folks running 2" shotgun condensers here are running them about 20 inches in length. Thats what mine is. Four 1/2 inch vapor tubes, 20 inches long inside a 22 inch long shell. I run electric, 240V 5500 watt element in a 13-gallon milk can boiler. With enough water flow, I cannot overpower the condenser. I run cooling water from the tap. Others run a recirculating system.
On a spirit run, my wastewater is hot, but the stream is just over double the stream of product. On a stripping run, I usually run about 4200W and adjust the water flow to keep the water output hot, and the alcohol around 23C.

With only a 14 inch long product condenser, whether you can strip at full power will depend on a few variables. How many BTU's are available, how much cooling water you have available, and the flow rate of said water.

I should add, that for running on a hob, you're taking a pretty big risk with the spirits exiting the condenser that close to an open flame. I certainly hope you're not doing that in your place of abode, but rather in an out-building or some other place where you don't run a risk of burning down your house.

[brewbob]

Most of the folks running 2" shotgun condensers here are running them about 20 inches in length. Thats what mine is. Four 1/2 inch vapor tubes, 20 inches long inside a 22 inch long shell. I run electric, 240V 5500 watt element in a 13-gallon milk can boiler. With enough water flow, I cannot overpower the condenser. I run cooling water from the tap. Others run a recirculating system.
On a spirit run, my wastewater is hot, but the stream is just over double the stream of product. On a stripping run, I usually run about 4200W and adjust the water flow to keep the water output hot, and the alcohol around 23C.

With only a 14 inch long product condenser, whether you can strip at full power will depend on a few variables. How many BTU's are available, how much cooling water you have available, and the flow rate of said water.

I should add, that for running on a hob, you're taking a pretty big risk with the spirits exiting the condenser that close to an open flame. I certainly hope you're not doing that in your place of abode, but rather in an out-building or some other place where you don't run a risk of burning down your house.

With a little research I found my burner is around 150k BTU. That would be equivalent to around 2500 watts, makes me wonder if it's even worth a 3" column till I upgrade. I have a ton the cooling water, running the pot hard I only use about half the flow I have available.

I appreciate the concern with running on an open flame. The PC will have a long spout off to the side, most likely further away from the flame than my pot/liebig. I have been building and running stills for 20+ years on propane, I have a lot of respect and caution with my setup. Thankfully it's legal where I live so there is no need to hide anything. During the lock downs I poured a concrete pad behind my garage. I made sure I can set up the still, fish/turkey fryer, smoker, etc at a safe distance from the garage. Nothing like watching the still while you smoke a brisket.