Column top popped off

[Moonshine31]

Hello everyone, I just did a cleaning wash with vinegar and water and my column that I just bought popped off when I was cooking. I slowed it down but it seems like I really need to slow it down so that it stays on top of my column. I can run my still alot harder if this doesn't pop for stripping runs.

Should I solider a cap on top of my column? I've veen googling columns lately and don't see any with this rubber top piece.

[howie]

rubber isn't good on a still.
is that metal thing on top a thermometer?
personally i would solder a copper cap on it.
the set up is as per your 'inverted' photo yesterday, 40gall drum as a condenser only?

[Salt Must Flow]

Just be absolutely sure that the vapor path is not blocked in any way. You can solder a cap or install a thermowell to eliminate that rubber thing.

[Bushman]

Just be absolutely sure that the vapor path is not blocked in any way. You can solder a cap or install a thermowell to eliminate that rubber thing.

[Moonshine31]

rubber isn't good on a still.
is that metal thing on top a thermometer?
personally i would solder a copper cap on it.
the set up is as per your 'inverted' photo yesterday, 40gall drum as a condenser only?

Yes the top metal thing is a thermometer. My setup was my dad's besides the keg now and column that I'm talking about. It's a really big condenser but as your distilling the whiskey always comes out cold at the bottom. The top is hot but it takes a long time for the bottom of the water to get warm.

[Steve Broady]

Am I missing something? If the top is popping off, that seems to me to indicate that there’s too much pressure in the system. Either a blockage, or just an inadequate condenser. Inappropriate materials aside, I suspect that cap was acting as a safety valve. Before I soldered a cap on top, I’d be making sure there’s not a bigger problem, and something much more destructive happens.

[still_stirrin]

Here’s link to a response to ponder: viewtopic.php?p=7768624#p7768624

ss

[shadylane]

I suspect that cap was acting as a safety valve. Before I soldered a cap on top, I’d be making sure there’s not a bigger problem, and something much more destructive happens.

[Dancing4dan]

What type of condenser are you using?

An improperly routed worm can fill with liquid and build some pressure.

[shadylane]

More info is definitely needed. A pic of the worm and tubing diameter would help.
A pot still and worm should never have enough pressure built up to blow a rubber cork.

If everything is sized right and the worm has a steady downward grade, 0.2 - 0.4 psi would be normal.
It's beginning to sound like your worm might be undersized or restricted considering the burner being used.

[Moonshine31]

I'll get a pic of inside the worm later today, it has a coil going downward for sure and my cleansing run went great just when I turned up the heat it would pop off.

It's not a cork it's a rubber piece that goes over the copper tube not inside. It comes off pretty easily tbh.

[shadylane]

Is the inside of the tubing 1/2" or bigger all the way from the pot to the end of the worm without any kinks?

[shadylane]

It's not a cork it's a rubber piece that goes over the copper tube not inside. It comes off pretty easily tbh.

Sounds like it would slip off pretty easily especially if hot.
A side note, Ya probably already know it, plastic is good when in contact with alcohol.

[Bradster68]

It's not a cork it's a rubber piece that goes over the copper tube not inside. It comes off pretty easily tbh.

Sounds like it would slip off pretty easily especially if hot.
A side note, Ya probably already know it, plastic is good when in contact with alcohol.

"IS GOOD"???

[shadylane]

" plastic is good when in contact with alcohol"

Damn, I said that wrong.

[Steve Broady]

..my cleansing run went great just when I turned up the heat it would pop off.

This makes me think that the condenser can’t handle the amount of vapor you’re giving at full power. That happened to me when I was using a 3/8” worm early on. Moving up to a larger tubing, and eventually to a Liebig, completely changed how the still runs. Now, if I overpower the condenser, it just blows vapor instead of plugging up. Still not ideal or safe, but a lot less of a danger than something going boom.

[shadylane]

I'd remove the thermometer and plastic sleave.
Then connect a DIY manometer to the riser with a natural cork.

[still_stirrin]

ID of worm tubing? It should be minimum 1/2” (13mm ???). And how long is it. I actually think the problem is the size (diameter) transition from the 2” riser to the 3/4” Lyne arm. The vapor has to accelerate to get out of the way from rising vapor in the boiler & riser and that increase in flow velocity results in a pressure drop between the source (boiler) and outlet (spout). That means the rubber cap and thermometer are at an elevated pressure. The boiler too, but a keg is capable of much higher pressure.

Also, when the boiler vessel pressure increases, the boiling point of the liquid (wash) increases, meaning you apply more heat and store more energy in vaporization. This is how distilling gets dangerous. So, be careful. You must insure minimal pressure buildup, so keep all piping as large as possible. For example, increasing the diameter of the Lyne arm piping to 1”, or even 1-1/2” would help reduce pressure significantly. Also, increase worm piping diameter to 3/4” and it’ll operate much smoother too, ie - less “pulsing” , or huffing and puffing at the spout.
ss

[The Baker]

What type of condenser are you using?

An improperly routed worm can fill with liquid and build some pressure.

And insects can block the condenser.

Geoff

[Moonshine31]

Here is a pic of the inside of my condenser I'm not sure on the exact size of it but it is long and seems like a decent size. I honestly think next year I'm going to build myself a condenser, i think the majority of my setup will slowly get better.

[Moonshine31]

Condenser

[Moonshine31]

For now I'm just running my still at medium or until the top pops off. I'll be solidering a cap on it today and keeping the temps lower.

[Buffalo]

Each 90 deg. fitting adds restriction to flow. It looks like there are probably 3 at the top of the product condenser. If there is one at the bottom that adds even more restriction. As mentioned in earlier posts if the tube at the bottom angles upward at all you have a place for liquid to collect and reduce flow even more.
Regards