Build design and search for parts

[Alzahra888]

Hello, I have designed a Modular CCVM/pot still and show the reader photos of precise parts I found for them online.

This is my first build design. There’s probably much left to consider and there is a real question about using these parts from Ali express. I can always source stuff locally and back out of the design suggested by easily available parts.

And while the part sizes can be changed to the extent that I can source local scrapmetal items, as they are, the listed sizes are per precisely available parts from Ali Express and the PDF below contains screenshots of each item from their web page.


Legend to figure 1* (below)
A - 100mm, connects below to a keg
B - 500mm, connects to T above
C - T (this is one piece to be clear of the drawing suggests otherwise)
D - 365mm site glass with SS dimroth as RC
E - Elbow
F - 450mm shotgun PC
G - reducer 2” -> 9.5mm

*All parts are 2” SS; and
All red lines are triclamps with PTFE gaskets size


I am not sure yet if the Ali express parts are satisfactory quality but they appear to be so.

My reservations about the design as per Ali express parts regards suitability, specifically for:

Question 1: the suitability of the stainless steel dimroth/site glass (PDF, diagram item ‘D’)

The use of a shotgun (item ‘F) is not needed in Reflux mode but the price is good and it will work for pot still mode, but

Question 2: CAN the shotgun (item ‘F’) remain instead of a Leibig PC when operating in reflux mode? Is the overkill detracting somehow or is it harmless in terms of operability and quality of product.

All parts from Ali express are flanged.

Question 3: are the triclamps I find on Ali express suitable for these?

Question 4: are the silicon gaskets from Ali express suitable?

My Ali express shopping basket also has a 2” end cap to remove RC (item ‘D’) and insert end cap on item ‘C’ for pot still mode.

Question 5: is removing ‘D’ and capping ‘C’ a reasonable design for pot still mode?

Item ‘G’ is a reducer. I see two options available from Ali express 2”->9.5mm or 2” -> 25mm

Question 6: are either of these options suitable/preferable?


Note on prices in the PDF: these heavily marked down prices are not realistic so please disregard. The huge discounts shown would only apply to one item of my choice.

[MooseMan]

Just had a quick scan through, and quick answer is yes that will all work as you plan.

Except:
Q4 No you should not use silicone gaskets, get all PTFE gaskets.

You will need a longer packed section below the Tee to run in CCVM mode if you want to make decent neutral. Either get 2x500mm ones or a longer one.

You could do with some copper in your vapour path.

[Salt Must Flow]

Question 1: the suitability of the stainless steel dimroth/site glass (PDF, diagram item ‘D’)

I have no idea how much knockdown power the one you're looking at has. The ones I've seen only have one spiral of stainless steel. Most here wind their own copper coils and pretty much always wind a double coil. Winding your own coil is pretty easy and usually preferable in comparison to any reflux condensers I've seen for sale.

The use of a shotgun (item ‘F) is not needed in Reflux mode but the price is good and it will work for pot still mode, but

Question 2: CAN the shotgun (item ‘F’) remain instead of a Leibig PC when operating in reflux mode? Is the overkill detracting somehow or is it harmless in terms of operability and quality of product.

Using a shotgun condenser is just fine when doing a spirit run with a reflux column. Where the shotgun condenser really shines is during stripping runs. A well made shotgun condenser 24" long should knock down 11000W at a relatively high water flow, but will use barely a trickle during a spirit run.

Question 3: are the triclamps I find on Ali express suitable for these?

I've never bought clamps & gaskets from Ali Express, but I've heard that lighter, less durable clamps are sometimes sold.

Question 4: are the silicon gaskets from Ali express suitable?

Best to get PTFE gaskets. The only time I use silicone gaskets is if I have a joint that is warped and will not work with PTFE gaskets. Silicone gaskets are soft so they flex. Now a days there's 'envelope gaskets' that are soft on the interior and PTFE on the exterior so they supposedly flex and conform to seal warped joints.

My Ali express shopping basket also has a 2” end cap to remove RC (item ‘D’) and insert end cap on item ‘C’ for pot still mode.

Question 5: is removing ‘D’ and capping ‘C’ a reasonable design for pot still mode?

That's exactly what you would do.

Item ‘G’ is a reducer. I see two options available from Ali express 2”->9.5mm or 2” -> 25mm

Question 6: are either of these options suitable/preferable?

What is the reducer for? You said all parts are 2" so you should not need a reducer would you?

[Alzahra888]

Thanks Mooseman, thanks SMF,

Very helpful comments. I will lengthen column and add copper packing if I go with this config but I’d prefer to source copper locally. The benefits of not having to make a flange on a copper tube are encouraging but hey maybe it’s not as hard as I expect. Yes to PTFE and I’ll look for the two-sided style you mention. I don’t know why I thought a reducer was wanted to combine drips from a five- or six-shooter PC. For the reflux I assumed I’d make my own wrapping the copper around a 1”pipe—but I was intrigued to know your thoughts on this SS item from Ali express.

As to the power I will first try to get the keg going on wood-fired maybe with sand a la popcorn—actually I can’t recall where I read about sand. Any critical ideas about that would be great.

[Wildcats]

If the reducer is for the end of your product condenser... Then yes get and use one. Makes it all flow from the multiple tubes in the PC to one take off tube. Granted you don't have to have one. But sure makes for a neater take off.... Most all members that have and use shotgun condensers ..... Have and use a reduction on the end of it.

[MooseMan]

Thanks Mooseman, thanks SMF,

Very helpful comments. I will lengthen column and add copper packing if I go with this config but I’d prefer to source copper locally. The benefits of not having to make a flange on a copper tube are encouraging but hey maybe it’s not as hard as I expect.

Not a problem man.

Bashing out a copper flange is actually not hard at all, just needs prep and patience. And it's satisfying when you get it finished.

[Alzahra888]

[post moved by user from welcome forum, having accidentally posted over there]

I am reading and can’t understand two things from OtisT’s specifications for a dimroth coil, he writes:

Otis' dimroth product condenser
Vapor Input is a 3/4" copper union
Vapor chamber is a 2" diameter pipe
The Cu condenser coil is made from 1/4" Cu tubing (-11')
Coil ID=1", OD=1.5". 26 winds (1/8" gap) over 10", with a center return
1/4" needle valve


So I am having trouble understanding what the 3/4” copper union is, does and where it’s located.

And the 1/4” needle valve. Is that the small valve shown on the input in this photo?

Plus a Total bozo question: does this ferrule /triclamp combo make a flange unnecessary?

I

[Salt Must Flow]

This is a 3/4" copper union.

This is a 1/4" needle valve.

[Alzahra888]

This is a 3/4" copper union.

This is a 1/4" needle valve.

Very nice of you. Thanks for the links.