ChristopherC wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2023 8:11 am
Hey Otis,
That's a real piece of history with barrel #43! I'm thrilled you're taking the time to refurbish it for your tribute rum.
To your questions:
1) It's typically a good idea to swell the head first before adding pins. This will ensure a tight fit, making the pinning process easier. If the head is slightly bowed, swelling it could help straighten things out.
2) Definitely predrill. It'll reduce the risk of splitting, especially with the wood being older and possibly drier from those years of non-use.
3) As for additional advice: Go slow and be gentle. These barrels have stories and history, so every bit of care you provide ensures they continue to serve their purpose.
Wishing you the best with the refurbishing process. I'm sure Ben would be thrilled to know his barrel is in such good hands.
All the best,
Christopher
I just ordered 3 packs of wood today from Bad Motivator Legacy and want to make my barrels the right way the first time. I feel like I have a good handle on how to build with the great instructions here and on the Badmo website, but the pins are throwing me for a loop. Looking for specifics, what size and how many would you recommend?
Taking a stab at it, I was thinking 4-8 pins per head at 4mm x 10-12mm. I see Amazon has a stainless pilot pins. These are overpriced, but is something along these lines a good option? What would be better?
I'm very new to this hobby, but I'm about to start Ben's panela rum recipe and I want to get it into one of these barrels right out of the gate. Thanks for your advice and for carrying on the legacy.
RandallThorp wrote: ↑Fri Nov 10, 2023 12:48 pm
I just ordered 3 packs of wood today from Bad Motivator Legacy and want to make my barrels the right way the first time. I feel like I have a good handle on how to build with the great instructions here and on the Badmo website, but the pins are throwing me for a loop. Looking for specifics, what size and how many would you recommend?
Taking a stab at it, I was thinking 4-8 pins per head at 4mm x 10-12mm. I see Amazon has a stainless pilot pins. These are overpriced, but is something along these lines a good option? What would be better?
I'm very new to this hobby, but I'm about to start Ben's panela rum recipe and I want to get it into one of these barrels right out of the gate. Thanks for your advice and for carrying on the legacy.
Hey Randall,
I was wondering what you were up to with all that wood
It's great to hear your enthusiasm for barrel-making! I typically use 17 gauge by 1-inch stainless wire nails and place three per head. However, maybe you're right to want 4 - 8, I don't know what would be best.
Before you commit to pinning the heads, it might be good to check the seal first. If you discover any leaks, it's easier to address them before the heads are permanently fixed.
Good luck with your barrel-making, and I'm confident your Tribute panela rum will turn out amazing!
Thank you so much Christopher! I really appreciate your advice and couldn't believe how quickly you shipped as well. I will be sure to check for leaks first before pinning them down.
I really stepped up my barrel plans because my neighbor has some great tools he'll let me use (planer, biscuit joiner, etc) and he just told me he's about to move out of state. I thought, no time like the present! I'll give him a barrel full of white whiskey as a thank you.
Thank you again, Christopher. I'm looking forward the project and tasting that Tribute Panela. Cheers!
Received and promptly filled my first official Badmo barrel with HBB. The designed inspired me to make my own. I've been searching for quarter-sawn air dried white oak for a while now without luck. Was going to buy a used barrel to tear apart and steam straighten and refinish. I ended up purchasing wood from Badmo - I'm glad I did. I struggled with that to get perfect edges without a jointer - it takes some finesse! I am more of a construction grade carpenter than a cabinet maker! I expected more forgiveness after soaking - but there isn't much. Took a bit of bee's wax to seal the edges.
I got two made without leaks so far, pleased with my progress. I have them both filled with UJSSM made with HBB grains. I have the supplies for a couple more barrels - contemplating one for a tribute rum.
vyrius wrote: ↑Wed Nov 15, 2023 12:26 am
Hi, does anyone have a tip for stainless vessels usable for BADMO barrels that I could get in EU?
A UK based member has ordered from here. They do other sizes as well. When I've actually got the time I'll get some delivered to my folks. I seem to recall that the shipping to the continent was complicated by Brexit.
Edit to add: Not complicated... Just pricey! Minimum order of £45 ex VAT and £25 delivery.
"I have a potstill that smears like a fresh plowed coon on the highway" - Jimbo
I have been trying to dial in my process for making my own badmo barrels. I'm practicing with 2x4s as to not ruin the good wood until I'm sure I know what I'm doing. I have been jointing the boards and using dowels. When I dry fit the boards together they fit perfect, no gaps. When I apply a thin layer of bees wax between the staves then fit them together it seems like the wax keeps the staves apart. I guess the wax hardens too much before I get them together? Anyone have a better process for applying the wax between the staves? I was thinking of maybe just forgoing the wax and spot applying if a leak continues after the wood swells. Thanks for the help.
andystanton74 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2023 9:45 am
I have been trying to dial in my process for making my own badmo barrels. I'm practicing with 2x4s as to not ruin the good wood until I'm sure I know what I'm doing. I have been jointing the boards and using dowels. When I dry fit the boards together they fit perfect, no gaps. When I apply a thin layer of bees wax between the staves then fit them together it seems like the wax keeps the staves apart. I guess the wax hardens too much before I get them together? Anyone have a better process for applying the wax between the staves? I was thinking of maybe just forgoing the wax and spot applying if a leak continues after the wood swells. Thanks for the help.
I would recommend adding the wax during the build. The wax helps hold the boards together during the milling process in addition to minimizing leaks.
Two things that may help you get a thin layer of wax and a good attachment:
1) After applying too much wax, take a metal straight edge and scrape off all of the excess wax until you have a nice smooth surface. That will leave a nice thin, even layer of wax.
2) Once you are ready to assemble the head for milling and after you have applied a nice thin and even layer of wax to the edge of your staves (see #1 above), go over the waxed edges of your wood with a micro torch to heat up the edge, then quickly assemble and clamp your head together and give it a side to side squeeze. Let it cool a minute before removing the clamps.
andystanton74 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2023 10:22 am
Thanks for the reply otis. Do you think using something like a heat gun would work to soften up the wax before squeezing the staves together?
Yes it does. It also helps to heat the rim of the Bain Marie before you slide the wood circle in.
As for the wax, I melt it in a double boiler and brush it on the edges then put them together. But cut the circle first so the wax is squeezed.
Alright cool thanks. I will look at getting a heat gun. So you fit the staves together without wax, cut the circle, take the staves apart then apply wax and clamp together?
andystanton74 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2023 10:46 am
Alright cool thanks. I will look at getting a heat gun. So you fit the staves together without wax, cut the circle, take the staves apart then apply wax and clamp together?
No. Before the waxing, I mill the face and edges square. I use TnG edges, while some others would use biscuits or dowels. Next I wax the boards together before the circle milling process. The wax holds them firmly in place which is important for getting a good clean circle cut and edges sanded to perfection. Apparently SubBrew does it a bit differently.
I think the TNG makes a difference. When I have reused a barrel head, which was TNG, for a badmo clone I did wax that before I cut it.
When I am doing staves, I cut them flat (i.e. remove the taper) and then I use dowels and fit them snug to hold the boards/staves while cutting the circle. I also put painters tape on the seams for additional hold but not sure it really does much.
After I get everything together and the spirit in I usually get a "ribbon" of wax squeezed out of the seam a few weaks after it has been resting with the spirit.
ChristopherC wrote: ↑Fri Nov 10, 2023 1:13 pm
I was wondering what you were up to with all that wood
Hey Christopher, after getting nudged in the direction of BadMo from OtisT while looking for some good oak, I hit up the website to see about getting some and it says you're sold out. Did RandallThorpe clean you out? Say it ain't so haha!
Time, patience, and perseverance will accomplish all things.
venkman wrote: ↑Mon Dec 18, 2023 2:18 pm
Hey Christopher, after getting nudged in the direction of BadMo from OtisT while looking for some good oak, I hit up the website to see about getting some and it says you're sold out. Did RandallThorpe clean you out? Say it ain't so haha!
Hello Venkman,
It's great to hear you were sent this way by OtisT! Regarding the oak, I recommend signing up for our mailing list. This way, you'll be emailed as soon as the 10-pieces of Oak are back in stock. Stay tuned, and we'll make sure you're updated.
Has anyone been keeping records of the weight of their barrels over time to record angels share?
The thought occurred to me the other day to begin weighing my barrels to track angels share over time for curiosity's sake.
I ordered a new scale yesterday so I can weigh my last remaining empty barrel prior to filling it, then weigh it after filling it, and record weight loss over time.
My first barrel has been sitting for 20 months untouched, and the 2nd one I filled last month. I have one to fill, and need to order two more Oregon Oak barrels for a PNW terroir SMW project, so I'm going to record losses over time while they age.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
So if you are using a tongue and groove. If you buy one of the standard tongue and groove bits for a router is the fit snug enough for the staves to press fit together to stay together when cutting the circle?
andystanton74 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 24, 2023 9:05 pm
So if you are using a tongue and groove. If you buy one of the standard tongue and groove bits for a router is the fit snug enough for the staves to press fit together to stay together when cutting the circle?
I’m not sure what a standard bit is. I do know there are some that will hold together better than others, but you may still find wax useful, or perhaps just tape on the faces. I’m not sure how you are cutting your circle, but you can probably get away w/o using wax if you have good tool skills and are patient. Safety first, watch your fingers!
Jesus Christ your shipping is getting quick Chris.
The Post office just delivered my 2 barrels today.
With 5 of them I need to rethink how I plan to store them neatly. I guess a trip to the lumber yard is in order. Making induvidual stands for each one isn't the best option at this point. it's time to build a modular barrel rack and start stacking them.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
Deplorable, here is a post showing the new rack I made.
It was a quick and dirty rack built from cherry (its what I had) without a finish on it.
I've added another single malt since then, and just started a new bourbon mash today.
I saw that one Higgins, I like it. It's along the lines of what I'm thinking, but I'm thinking 3 wide, and modular, so as the collection grows, I can just add another tier to the top. Tie them together like Lincoln Logs.
However, if I retire one of my 5-gallon Barrels and move the other, I think I might be able to go 4 wide and 2 high in the space available under my work bench. I have two full in a cupboard above my tool box, but a 3rd wont fit. The 3 empty ones will get filled before spring.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
What's everyone's thoughts on alternative materials for the bung. I don't really want to spend the money on the equipment to taper a bung with a matching tapered hole. I have thought about using a stainless steel bolt but the bigger ones are harder to find and kind of expensive. I have also thought about threading in a 1/2 inch npt copper fitting and soldering a cap on it. There are also white silicone stoppers. Just curious what others are using.
andystanton74 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 12:08 am
What's everyone's thoughts on alternative materials for the bung.
Something simple like a cork ? they come in many sizes.
andystanton74 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 12:08 am
I don't really want to spend the money on the equipment to taper a bung
Are you maybe over thinking this ? A piece of oak secured in a spinning drill, then the piece of oak held against a course piece of sand paper, once shaped and tapered finish with fine.
As with building stills , you don't need a pile of fancy equipment , just need to improvise a bit.
I've used T-tops from old liquor bottles as bungs in some of my badmo clones. I just drill a hole the same size as the bottle neck (usually 19mm). I make sure I only use those with real cork rather than synthetic.
higgins wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 7:42 am
I've used T-tops from old liquor bottles as bungs in some of my badmo clones. I just drill a hole the same size as the bottle neck (usually 19mm). I make sure I only use those with real cork rather than synthetic.
A cork does sound like the easiest way. That seals ok?
higgins wrote: ↑Sun Jan 28, 2024 7:42 am
I've used T-tops from old liquor bottles as bungs in some of my badmo clones. I just drill a hole the same size as the bottle neck (usually 19mm). I make sure I only use those with real cork rather than synthetic.
Have you ever put the cork in the stainless as opposed to the wood?
