Silicone tip for steam wand

[Eric]

Was thinking about a hi temp silicone tip like a camelbak tip, just a cap with a slit in it. It will build minimal pressure, not allow Mash in like a check valve of sort. Will be exposed to low % alcohol since it will be in the mash. Medical grade, food grade just thinking out loud.

[NZChris]

Look up the manufacturer's specs., or contact them for advice. They will know more about their products than anyone here.

[Eric]

7/8 hi temp silicone end caps for steam wand with a slit cut in it. Works like a champ, the 5/8 one I made built up 1.2 psi so I went larger.

[Yummyrum]

Sounds like a winning idea eric .

Self closing minimises and possibly mitigates clogging before steam availability .

Alcohol level is low so don’t see a problem there .
How it lasts with repeated vibration in a relatively hot environment will be interesting ….. however I think it will cream it .

[Tōtōchtin]

7/8 hi temp silicone end caps for steam wand with a slit cut in it. Works like a champ, the 5/8 one I made built up 1.2 psi so I went larger.20230320_012350.jpg

How has that held up, it would seem to give you more control then a braided steel hose.
Tōtō

[Eric]

Honestly it's super nice, doesn't clog up and easy to clean. It will hummm.. when mash is cold but goes away about 100 degrees. No different to the thumping of a steel braid. Mine has been thru 16 stripping runs three hrs ea. at 20 gallons in a 26 gallon still and has no wear to speak of. I run a full 11000 watts to it flat out with no pressure issues thru a half inch copper line from steamer. Hope this helps, being able to pull it thru 2 inch triclamp fitting has been much better than removing the ss hose, haven't been burned since. Being so easy and fast to strip on grain is a life changer.

[Tōtōchtin]

Thanks for getting back to me. I looked at another thread of yours. It looks like you are using around 15 gal boiler. I was wondering how many tips are you running with your 11k element and are they at the same level?
Tōtō

[Eric]

I have used 5/8 and 7/8 powder Coating hi temp silicone caps for 1/2 or 3/4 copper pipe. When steam mashing and stripping in the beginning the pressure will rise to 1.2 psig then fall as the mash heats up but this is no different than the ss braid I was using. I have tried both single and double heads for tips and found that one single tip to be best at 2 to 4 inches from the bottom of the mash tun or boiler the heat will rise and it mixes quite well on its own. Also with just one tip I can put it thru a 2" triclamp fitting also thru the top screw fittings for a blue food grade 55 gal drum which mitigates splashing. I can steam mash 100 lbs grain in 45 min in 40 gal total water volume (i fill to second ridge up the drum) with full conversion using ferm solutions enzimes. My steam setup is 16 gallon with 2- 5500 watt elements (typical stripping run takes 3 hours and i use about 8 gallons of water) to a 26 gal boiler filled with no more than 21 gal of distillers beer I shoot for 20 gal. I found using one element takes longer and heat loss and infiltration adds up which the loss accumulate to more filling of the boiler during heat up relative to your boiler size in my case 26 gal this will prove otherwise for smaller setups. Rambled a bit but I hope this gets u in the right direction. Tips on amazin 25 for 9.99 usd. They are cheap try a couple different cuts to find what works best for your application. I filled my boiler with water with no top for testing but a bucket would probably work.
If your thinking of getting into steam be safe and ask questions.
Read till your eyes bleed

[30xs]

I have used 5/8 and 7/8 powder Coating hi temp silicone caps for 1/2 or 3/4 copper pipe. When steam mashing and stripping in the beginning the pressure will rise to 1.2 psig then fall as the mash heats up but this is no different than the ss braid I was using. I have tried both single and double heads for tips and found that one single tip to be best at 2 to 4 inches from the bottom of the mash tun or boiler the heat will rise and it mixes quite well on its own. Also with just one tip I can put it thru a 2" triclamp fitting also thru the top screw fittings for a blue food grade 55 gal drum which mitigates splashing. I can steam mash 100 lbs grain in 45 min in 40 gal total water volume (i fill to second ridge up the drum) with full conversion using ferm solutions enzimes. My steam setup is 16 gallon with 2- 5500 watt elements (typical stripping run takes 3 hours and i use about 8 gallons of water) to a 26 gal boiler filled with no more than 21 gal of distillers beer I shoot for 20 gal. I found using one element takes longer and heat loss and infiltration adds up which the loss accumulate to more filling of the boiler during heat up relative to your boiler size in my case 26 gal this will prove otherwise for smaller setups. Rambled a bit but I hope this gets u in the right direction. Tips on amazin 25 for 9.99 usd. They are cheap try a couple different cuts to find what works best for your application. I filled my boiler with water with no top for testing but a bucket would probably work.
If your thinking of getting into steam be safe and ask questions.
Read till your eyes bleed

What is your volume addition to the 40 gallons getting it up to temp? I’m assuming that is getting to corn mashing temps. I usually do two 50 gallon ferments at a time when I mash in so with having my steamer up to temp and moving to the second barrel sounds like a faster option.

My boiler is a 30 gallon keg with two 5500 watt elements.

[Eric]

Short answer about 3 gallons.

I fill my 100 lt 26 gallon still with soft water as full as I can get it on my counter top bring to a boil and dump into 55 gallon blue hdpe barrel while adding 50 lbs of grain (corn) then all my ht enzimes 80 ml ferm solutions then other 50 lbs grain (corn). I try and do this as fast as I can before the corn converts so it will be workable I drill mix along the way.

I then put aside and start process again for second barrel.

I fill my steam mashing/cooking setup on my steam boiler which is 16 gallon to steam cook the barrels which are already hot. I start with the first barrel 45 min each 11k watts. I let them cool with a fan overnite and top off with water to the 40 gallon mark, pitch 2nd enzime and hydrated yeast with marble rock for ph buffer. I fill up a 1 liter soda bottle with the rock, put holes in it and hang it about half way down.

I have used 25 % oat 75% corn, enzimes chew thru the slime texture by the time its done fermenting. I always add some malted barley no less than 1 lb. The yeast seem happier when I do. No pukes yet on stripping runs but I run a 4" setup. 26 gallon heat ups are 45 min each and 30 min for 16 gallon then 45 min each to cook I don't refill the 16 gallon just move to the next barrel. 3.5 hours for 80 gallons of mash.

Stripping runs 20 gallons x4 each will give 7-8 gallons low wines 35% abv more than a spirit run of 26 gallons great problem to have. . Stripping runs are 3 hrs total x4. Run spirit run to your hearts desire. I run mine 11k watts pot still

Hope this helps you decide which route to take.

[Tōtōchtin]

Against thanks on your info. When you heat up 40 gal of mash do you use the one tip because that all you need, or because if you add more you would lose too much pressure to penetrate the mash. I can't help but think having steam enter at different levels would be quicker.
Tōtō

[Eric]

The mash will roll and turn mixing itself when it gets hot. No need for more tips the steam latent heat will overcome the heat transfer at 11k watts and the steam bubbles will rise turning the mash. Like a boiling pot on the stove. The tip is unique that you can adjust the cut to increase pressure if needed or wanted rather, a little pressure will increase efficiency. I have tested many variations and one tip was the best option for a 55 gallon barrel.

[30xs]

The mash will roll and turn mixing itself when it gets hot. No need for more tips the steam latent heat will overcome the heat transfer at 11k watts and the steam bubbles will rise turning the mash. Like a boiling pot on the stove. The tip is unique that you can adjust the cut to increase pressure if needed or wanted rather, a little pressure will increase efficiency. I have tested many variations and one tip was the best option for a 55 gallon barrel.

Hopefully multiple tips don’t cause an issue. I built one that would have 8 tips if I try you method. I was originally going to use 4 stainless mesh sleeves. The silicone tips seem like an easier disassembly for cleaning should the need arise. I don’t have a finished pic but the 1/2” in the photo was for mock up and were the stainless was going to go. My wand has a union at the bottom that would allow me to swap out the foot if the extra points are an issue.

[Tōtōchtin]

The mash will roll and turn mixing itself when it gets hot. No need for more tips the steam latent heat will overcome the heat transfer at 11k watts and the steam bubbles will rise turning the mash. Like a boiling pot on the stove. The tip is unique that you can adjust the cut to increase pressure if needed or wanted rather, a little pressure will increase efficiency. I have tested many variations and one tip was the best option for a 55 gallon barrel.

Hopefully multiple tips don’t cause an issue. I built one that would have 8 tips if I try you method. I was originally going to use 4 stainless mesh sleeves. The silicone tips seem like an easier disassembly for cleaning should the need arise. I don’t have a finished pic but the 1/2” in the photo was for mock up and were the stainless was going to go. My wand has a union at the bottom that would allow me to swap out the foot if the extra points are an issue.

I was curious if you had a chance to use it and what you learned from running it.
T

[30xs]

The mash will roll and turn mixing itself when it gets hot. No need for more tips the steam latent heat will overcome the heat transfer at 11k watts and the steam bubbles will rise turning the mash. Like a boiling pot on the stove. The tip is unique that you can adjust the cut to increase pressure if needed or wanted rather, a little pressure will increase efficiency. I have tested many variations and one tip was the best option for a 55 gallon barrel.

Hopefully multiple tips don’t cause an issue. I built one that would have 8 tips if I try you method. I was originally going to use 4 stainless mesh sleeves. The silicone tips seem like an easier disassembly for cleaning should the need arise. I don’t have a finished pic but the 1/2” in the photo was for mock up and were the stainless was going to go. My wand has a union at the bottom that would allow me to swap out the foot if the extra points are an issue.

I was curious if you had a chance to use it and what you learned from running it.
T

No chance yet. I’ve been remodeling the house and the distilling has taken a small backseat.

[Twisted Brick]

I can vouch that Eric's silicone tip idea works a treat. (Thanks Eric!)

After a 30min (single infusion mash) glucan rest at 111F I dropped the wand into a 10gal rye mash and brought the temp up to 160F in 55min. The silicone slits functioned as nozzles, efficiently dispersing the steam in a linear spray of fine bubbles. Although the angled steam wand rotated a previous water-only test nicely, as viscous as the rye was, the nozzles rotated the mash only slightly. It took a little less than 3qts of water over the course of an hour. (Unlike the pic, I had jerry-rigged some steam arm insulation that needs improving for the next run). Along with application of HT alpha, gluco and glucanase, the step mash came off really smoothly and got force-chilled before pitching with US-05.

An unexpected discovery occurred when I inadvertently knocked off one of the silicone tips with my paint stirrer at the very end of the mash. I knew exactly what I had done because the steam wand was releasing a giant stream of 'boils' that came to the surface. At this late point the mash was already converted thin and completely smooth, but it showed how efficient the regulated steam from the silicone tips was compared to the boils that rose directly to the surface. Post-mash inspection revealed a small amount of grain had entered the open wand arm, and none into the silicone-tipped arm.

The pressure created from the silicone tips stayed consistent throughout the entire run (about .5psi).

[Tōtōchtin]

I appreciate that report. I ve been waiting for a while now for a different silver solder for my 2" steam pipes. I know its all vapor/steam but I want a stronger joint for these pipes.
2 steps back then 3 steps forward.
T

[shadylane]

7/8 hi temp silicone end caps for steam wand with a slit cut in it. Works like a champ, the 5/8 one I made built up 1.2 psi so I went larger.

How deep in the mash was the wand when you took the measurement?
In other words, how many inches from the end cap to the surface of the mash?

[Eric]

At the bottom of a 55 gallon food grade barrel cooking corn. As it steamed and the temp went up the pressure dropped. It's thick in the beginning. Symptoms like ss braid steam setup. Same outcome as stripping on grain just less with larger tip. It's fantastic and I have had no problems to date.

[Brutal]

Evening folks. I'm just reading and dreaming tonight. I gave up years ago on stirring/agitating a mash with steam power. The effect of this elastic silicone with the hole being the exhaust nozzle could be the puzzle piece we were missing though. A metal orifice would be susceptible to clogging, and the velocity and restriction to flow would be fixed, and highly dependent on the thermal energy and pressure behind it. It would probably have one heat input setting that it would work at. You know, if it wasn't clogged. With these silicone pieces the pressure will only rise so much before the material yields and allows more flow. If you were to mount a venturi shaped pipe near the end of the nozzle you could accelerate material through it with the steam output. That could really stir a mash.

Thank you so much for sharing. It will still be a while before I can get back to the hobby. I love having new idea to chew on though. :cheers:

[shadylane]

Thank you so much for sharing. It will still be a while before I can get back to the hobby. I love having new idea to chew on though. :cheers:

It's been awhile since you last posted.
We were about to send out a search party looking for you Brutal.

[Eric]

Brutal just for you sir I jimmyed up a venturi it's rough and not perfect but it is something.

[Eric]

I'll update when I test it.

[Yummyrum]

Thats legendary Eric
Bloody hell , you went the extra mile on that …. Hope it works as intended

[Twisted Brick]

I'll update when I test it.

Looks promising Eric. Will be waiting with great interest.

[Eric]

Keep in mind i run 2 5500w elements your results may vary.
Started with a 5/8 silicone tip with a small slit, the pressure slowly rose above 4.5 psi and tripped my pressure relief valve. This rise was over a 10 minute duration. The problem is, it was not great in the venturi department lol. It appeared the steam collapsed rapidly and did not have the pressure thru the venturi to create the low pressure in the venturi which did not draw the extra volume which was not impressive. I did try a larger slit in the 5/8 tip dropping the pressure to the normal .5 psi which was comforting. The lower pressure seemed to work better as it appeared to have more moving volume. I do think a proper 15 degree venturi properly spaced to the tip and with a hot mash would work better. The question remains, will I still have to stir the mash until it gets above 160*f and does it work better than the 7/8 tip. I put the 7/8 tip on and tested it, it performed better than the venturi and also better than the 5/8 tip. It looks like it has a wider slicing effect thru the water. I did try an X cut on the tip it also did not perform well.
My conclusion is the 7/8 tip works best with a slit. One tip is better than 2. The injector rips the mash when at temperature. You will need to stir the mash during heat up. Heat and bubbles rise put the injector at the bottom of the mash. No need to preheat mash water, fill the fermenter and insert steam setup, warming water with steam. Add ht enzimes to the water then the corn or grains it saves heating up your boiler twice since you will still need to steam that dang corn. I only need to stir the mash until it heats up then the tip takes over and churns the mash, I cook 100 lbs of grain in 55 gal barrel with 2 5500w elements I did not test 1 5500 watt element or smaller fermenter sizes mileage may vary.
Was hoping for a slam dunk or home run but it's not the case with this tip.

[Eric]

Pics small slit 5/8

[Eric]

Large slit .5 psi 5/8

[Eric]

7/8 more of a slicing effect worked the best

[shadylane]

Was hoping for a slam dunk or home run but it's not the case with this tip.

Valuable information none the less.
Thanks for taking the time to share.