Mash tun / stripping still

[Bolverk]

4" test 4



I give up for tonight...

[tjsc5f]

This doesn't help your cold side fill up, but i would 100% use silicone gaskets on the steam generator. They seal up way better/easier than the PTFE and you shouldn't get any complaints about safety because in this particular area, there is 0% contact with alcohol liquid or vapor.

Keep up the good work! I expect to have my new still shed built sometime this summer, so I'll need you to have the 9kW 4" version all ironed out by then

[Bolverk]

Agreed, I think that was the only spot on the generator that still had a ptfe gasket, but it's silicone now.

Haha! I hope to have it ironed out for you soon.
I have some rye here just waiting to become whiskey.

Are you really going to do one with a 9kw element?

I ordered a needle valve last night it should be here sometime today, that'll temporarily solve the fill issue, but I really need to find a better float valve.

[Bolverk]

So i went back and was reviewing my tests and I noticed something in this video.



The only way I should have steam blowing out of that bad gaskets is if the system was under pressure. So I pulled out the injector to inspect... turns out I had a big ass grain plug behind the 3/4 to 1/4 reducer at the educator. I think that added system pressure was forcing water back through the float opening the gate and allowing water in.

So with everything all cleaned out and new gaskets in place I'll fire it back up for another test before the new needle valve comes in later.

Incoming video

[Salt Must Flow]

That's good troubleshooting Seeing the float valve side flood like that was very strange and unexpected. Are you considering using one of those silicone tips some day?

[Bolverk]

4" test 5

[Bolverk]

4" test 6 Success!



What I don't understand is why the 1/4 educator would work fine with the 2" set up but not the 4"?

[Bolverk]

That's good troubleshooting Seeing the float valve side flood like that was very strange and unexpected. Are you considering using one of those silicone tips some day?

Thanks!

That's a good idea! I'll go back and read that thread

[NormandieStill]

With regard to the steam wand you talked about in the last video, I would start with one or two holes, and then add them as necessary. My first attempt at such a device had too many and so there wasn't enough pressure behind the steam to force it into the gloop that I was steaming. Coupled with the 3kW limit on my liebig this meant that whole portions of the (crushed fruit) wash that I was trying to steam strip, just didn't get hot, and I had to manually agitate it until it started to get up to temp and even then I suspect I ended up leaving some alcohol in the boiler.

[Bolverk]

With regard to the steam wand you talked about in the last video, I would start with one or two holes, and then add them as necessary. My first attempt at such a device had too many and so there wasn't enough pressure behind the steam to force it into the gloop that I was steaming. Coupled with the 3kW limit on my liebig this meant that whole portions of the (crushed fruit) wash that I was trying to steam strip, just didn't get hot, and I had to manually agitate it until it started to get up to temp and even then I suspect I ended up leaving some alcohol in the boiler.

That's a good idea.

How many of what size holes did you end up doing? Maybe I can come up with a number of X size holes per watt to get me close.

The other thing I'm thinking now is my larger 3/8 educator with a silicone tip

[Salt Must Flow]

Sure looks like it's on track now. With use over time, scale will surely form within the fittings & sightglasses if you're using tap water. Just like a coffee machine. I'm sure more money is NOT what you're interested in spending on this steamer right now, but an inexpensive RO unit might be worthwhile in the future. Steaming with RO water would keep your sightglasses clear & clean and no scale should ever form.

I imagine connecting an RO unit to an elevating a 7 gallon bucket with a mini float valve. The reservoir could gravity feed to your steamer's float valve. As the steamer consumes water, the RO unit would kick on and begin producing water simultaneously and stop if/when the reservoir becomes full.

[Bolverk]

Sure looks like it's on track now. With use over time, scale will surely form within the fittings & sightglasses if you're using tap water. Just like a coffee machine. I'm sure more money is NOT what you're interested in spending on this steamer right now, but an inexpensive RO unit might be worthwhile in the future. Steaming with RO water would keep your sightglasses clear & clean and no scale should ever form.

I imagine connecting an RO unit to an elevating a 7 gallon bucket with a mini float valve. The reservoir could gravity feed to your steamer's float valve. As the steamer consumes water, the RO unit would kick on and begin producing water simultaneously and stop if/when the reservoir becomes full.

Thanks, yeah, I'll clean it every few runs to keep the scale in check.
RO is definitely on the short list of upgrades, but I'll need to figure out a pressured system as the float needs at least 10psi to work.

[Salt Must Flow]

Sure looks like it's on track now. With use over time, scale will surely form within the fittings & sightglasses if you're using tap water. Just like a coffee machine. I'm sure more money is NOT what you're interested in spending on this steamer right now, but an inexpensive RO unit might be worthwhile in the future. Steaming with RO water would keep your sightglasses clear & clean and no scale should ever form.

I imagine connecting an RO unit to an elevating a 7 gallon bucket with a mini float valve. The reservoir could gravity feed to your steamer's float valve. As the steamer consumes water, the RO unit would kick on and begin producing water simultaneously and stop if/when the reservoir becomes full.

Thanks, yeah, I'll clean it every few runs to keep the scale in check.
RO is definitely on the short list of upgrades, but I'll need to figure out a pressured system as the float needs at least 10psi to work.

Yup a gravity feed reservoir wouldn't work. A Reverse Osmosis Bladder Tank should do the trick. Plumb the output of the RO unit to the bladder tank and then to the steamer's float valve. The bladder tank will feed pressurized water to the float valve for a while until the pressure reduces to a certain psi then the RO unit will kick on and shut off once the pressure increases to a certain psi. The pressures are WELL over 10 psi.

The goal would be to ensure that the steamer doesn't outpace the rate of the production of the RO unit. I installed two 75 gallon per day RO membranes on my RO unit and it produces 3 gallons per hour. After installing a booster pump it produces 7 gallons per hour.

[Bolverk]

Good idea, thanks!

[Bolverk]

One thing I'm struggling to understand is why the float would work just fine with the 1/4 educator in the 2" system but not in the 4" system. The only significant change was the amount of water brought up to a boil in the beginning.

Could it be that since there is now 4x more surface area in the boiler I'm some how getting more steam and thus creating more pressure through the 1/4" nozzle?

Anyone got any ideas?

[hellbilly007]

Have you decreased the water line pressure on the auto fill valve? I've been following this thread, just can't recall if you did. Perhaps increasing the line pressure would stabilize it

[Bolverk]

Have you decreased the water line pressure on the auto fill valve? I've been following this thread, just can't recall if you did. Perhaps increasing the line pressure would stabilize it

No, I haven't. My house water pressure is about 75psi.

I use a ball valve to control the main feed, so if 0° off and 90° is 100%, the ball valve was open to about 15° in both scenarios.

I'm not sure how I'd increase the line pressure?

[hellbilly007]

At 75 psi that shouldn't be the issue. I thought that I had read some discussion of reducing the line pressure before the auto fill valve. Wasn't sure if you had and maybe overlooked doing so. I really want to see this work as the majority of the parts used are off the shelf and doable for those interested in delving into such

[Bolverk]

At 75 psi that shouldn't be the issue. I thought that I had read some discussion of reducing the line pressure before the auto fill valve. Wasn't sure if you had and maybe overlooked doing so. I really want to see this work as the majority of the parts used are off the shelf and doable for those interested in delving into such

Agreed, it "shouldn't" be lol

No I think you're referring to the check valve to maintain at least 15psi on the float if the water bypass is open for the condenser. In my tests the valve to the condenser was closed so it should have had the full 75psi on the float.

I still need to go to the local hardware store to get a 3/4 to 3/8 reducer for the larger educator to see if that will solve the issue (I've got family in town right now so if nothing else it'll be next week.). If that doesn't work, I'm going to abandon the float and just use a needle valve to regulate the water input.

[Bolverk]

Got the adapter...it's funny how much larger the 3/8 is compared to the 1/4

She's installed... video to follow

[Bolverk]

Part 7

[Bolverk]

Part 8

[Bolverk]

Part 9

[Bolverk]

Part 10

[Bolverk]

Part 11

Finally figured it out

[hellbilly007]

Glad to see it working for you

[Bolverk]

Thanks

I'm convinced now that that this was in fact the same pressure differential that Yummyrum experienced in his experiment that he posted the link to earlier.

[Oystercracker123]

Just a thought Bolverk, have you tested to see if the water level in the reservoir is and remains constant when the "mashtun/steamer" is full? It seemed like in the experimentation and build you had to stop and reconfigure before the tun was full. If you have mashed in it, was the water level similarly stable once grain was added and became soupy?

[Bolverk]

Just a thought Bolverk, have you tested to see if the water level in the reservoir is and remains constant when the "mashtun/steamer" is full? It seemed like in the experimentation and build you had to stop and reconfigure before the tun was full. If you have mashed in it, was the water level similarly stable once grain was added and became soupy?

I did in the previous 2" version and it was steady through out the run.

I haven't tried it yet with the 4" built. The pressure difference from head water between 2" educator coverage and 18" is only about .5 psi so I don't suspect any issues at this point.

I'm trying to get some time this weekend to mash in a 60% rye grain bill... I'll post updates after.

[Oystercracker123]

Not sure if it would be of any help or applicable, but I recall a thread by Teluride a while ago when he was creating a continuous. Unfortunately he passed away, but I believe the thread still exists for informational purposes. I can't recall if it was here or at artisan or SD. Seem to recall he also went with a 4" spool. It may be helpful, at least the steam generator part.