Vevor 9G Electric Kettle Chop and Mod

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

As some of you guys know, I'm a fan of the way Mooseman has used tea urns to make boilers for small batch, 120v happiness. Inspired by his builds, I decided to start looking for something along those lines for myself. I dug around for a couple of weeks on Ebay and Marketplace but didn't find any used coffee or tea urns that were large enough, but I did run across a lady selling a Vevor 9 gallon 120v electric still. She said her husband bought it but never used it. I don't know if he got cold feet, got sent to the doghouse or what actually happened with the situation, but whatever the case may be, she sold it to me for $50 cash and was happy to get rid of it. The box wasn't even opened!

My plan is to ditch everything but the boiler and put a 2" ferrule on top to run a small 2" shotgun pot still I recently got, sort of like the Vevor Stump Lake did. I'm going to pull everything out of the lid and plug those holes up with some 1/2" stainless bolts, washers and some PTFE material I have. We'll use some PTFE tape to make the lid seal safe. I had thought about putting the ferrule offset to the edge, but the raised area isn't quite level and just isn't large enough to weld a ferrule or use a weldless 2" bulkhead, so we're going to remove the handle and put a weldless in the center of the lid.

We unpacked it last night and ran it with a couple of gallons of water in it to test it. It boiled the 2 gallons in just under 15 minutes on full throttle.

Something very interesting occured as it was coming up to temp. I had touched the bottom just after we turned on the power to see if it was heating up at all and the oil from my skin was catching the bubbles from the initial heat up. Science! I love it!

My son came up with a couple of names for the new setup and I'm not sure which one is going to stick yet. He said we could call her "Vicki Vevor", cause she's shiny but nasty. He's 22, that's where his mind goes! Moose even agreed it sounds like a porn name. We were also talking about it being our 2nd rig and electric, so he came up with one I was actually proud he knew as a 20 something; "Electric Boozaloo II"! We'll call it whichever one gets the most votes on here. I think I like the EBII best.

Anyway, just a fun little project to play around with and spend time with my son, use for recipe development, small single batches, things like that. I'll keep the build updated and let y'all know how it turns out and runs.

Rusty

[MooseMan]

What a bargain you got, those lid clips alone are just so much better than mucking around with stuff to hold the lid.
This thing is gonna be a cracker, I just know it!

And genuinely, to be mentioned as the inspiration for a build just because I messed around with a couple of tea urns for my mates is humbling, but I'm very glad I did.

There's a name for that thing with the bubbles collecting on a surface Rusty, nucleation point or something?

My vote, as someone who was very much a hip hop fan and wannabe breakdancer back in the late 80s, is of course Electric Boozaloo!
No contest.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

We must be about the same age, Moose. I too had a few cardboard burns back in the day.

Rusty

[squigglefunk]

sounds like the element is temperature controlled which is not ideal, I wonder if there's a way to wire in a power controller?

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

sounds like the element is temperature controlled which is not ideal, I wonder if there's a way to wire in a power controller?

Probably, the bottom panel is just held in with screws. If that turns out to be the case, I ain't scared. I had planned that route all along if I'd found a coffee urn, I can rewire it directly and snag a controller.

I was going to try and see if it would work as a potentiometer and not worry about the temperature settings. Basically, crank it wide open till I have product then dial it back and see if I can control the stream, that's how I learned at first with propane, so I was going to try it with this one. It turns off at 150°C as a safety in case you run it dry, I don't think I'd ever have to get over get over 100°C since that's the boiling point of water, but we'll see. I'm hoping we can get to do a water run this weekend and see how it goes. If it starts kicking on and off, I'll order a controller.

Rusty

[greggn]

Probably, the bottom panel is just held in with screws. If that turns out to be the case, I ain't scared. I had planned that route all along if I'd found a coffee urn, I can rewire it directly and snag a controller.

If you open it up, and find it can be re-wired, go slow and take photos. There's sure to be folks following in your footsteps.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

If you open it up, and find it can be re-wired, go slow and take photos. There's sure to be folks following in your footsteps.

Will do and Squigglefunk was right, it's temp controlled, so I'll be rewiring it and either building or buying a controller. I'm kinda wondering if I can bypass the temp control somehow, but whatever the case, I'll figure it out and document what I do.

Rusty

[MooseMan]

If you open it up, and find it can be re-wired, go slow and take photos. There's sure to be folks following in your footsteps.

Will do and Squigglefunk was right, it's temp controlled, so I'll be rewiring it and either building or buying a controller. I'm kinda wondering if I can bypass the temp control somehow, but whatever the case, I'll figure it out and document what I do.

Rusty

20250107_182652.jpg

Yeah get the base off and put up a few pics for us Rusty, there are some clever electrickery brains here who will be able to jump in. (Yummy, cough, cough...)
I'd personally (Well, I did on the last 2) chop out everything and go direct from mains to element, since my electrical knowledge/experience is limited and I figure the least connections I have made the least chance of a failure point.

If you get a chinese controller, go with the highest wattage rating you can get as the figures they quote can be at least halved in reality, I have gone with 10kw ones for 2kw elements.

[GrumbleStill]

Nice pickup for $50.

I doubt you’ll need to go to the trouble of rewiring it though. There are plenty of off the shelf controllers that you should be able to plug straight in. Just put the temp control setting to maximum when you’re stilling. The rest of the time the temp control will be handy for heating water to a set temp for mashing.

Cheers & have fun.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Yeah get the base off and put up a few pics for us Rusty, there are some clever electrickery brains here who will be able to jump in. (Yummy, cough, cough...)
I'd personally (Well, I did on the last 2) chop out everything and go direct from mains to element, since my electrical knowledge/experience is limited and I figure the least connections I have made the least chance of a failure point.

If you get a chinese controller, go with the highest wattage rating you can get as the figures they quote can be at least halved in reality, I have gone with 10kw ones for 2kw elements.

I'm gonna pop that off this weekend and at least take a look and see if there's anything obvious, I'll definitely post up some pictures. I do have some electrical/electronic training and have dabbled since high school, chasing this or that invention, RC or project. I understand the concepts and the dangers of both AC & DC current and have worked with both, anything from just a few volts DC to 240AC. I think, especially with help from you guys and Yummy, we'll get there with this thing no problem.

The only Jungle Website offering I could find that I thought might work is this one. It says it's 10,000w but 22a, which is a contradiction to my pea brain. A 22a draw would be 2640 watts, not 10,000w, that would be much higher amperage, just over 80a. EBII runs on a claimed 1800w max which would put it rated at 15a, so that one MIGHT work. Y'all already know I'm not a "might" guy, I'm just gonna do the research and build one, that's more fun than buying one anyway unless you guys know of a better source for controllers like we use.

Nice pickup for $50.

I doubt you’ll need to go to the trouble of rewiring it though. There are plenty of off the shelf controllers that you should be able to plug straight in. Just put the temp control setting to maximum when you’re stilling. The rest of the time the temp control will be handy for heating water to a set temp for mashing.

Cheers & have fun.

That's a great idea Grumble. I might just build/buy the controller then try this before I chop any wiring and see how it works. If it doesn't, I can always wire directly to the element like Moose does.

Rusty

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I've been digging around a little for components and you know what conclusion I've come to?

I REALLY MISS RADIO SHACK!

Rusty

[squigglefunk]

I've been digging around a little for components and you know what conclusion I've come to?

I REALLY MISS RADIO SHACK!

Rusty

amen to that one I miss the ole rat shack as well.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I just ran across the schematic in the enclosed "recipe" book. At least it appears that the thermostat is a separate component from the potentiometer.

Rusty

[shadylane]

Nice pickup for $50.

I doubt you’ll need to go to the trouble of rewiring it though. There are plenty of off the shelf controllers that you should be able to plug straight in. Just put the temp control setting to maximum when you’re stilling. The rest of the time the temp control will be handy for heating water to a set temp for mashing.

Cheers & have fun.

That's what I was thinking also.
See if it's possible to turn the knob wide open and plug the pot into a controller.
If it's not possible because the crude design, gut everything other than the element and use a controller.

[MooseMan]

Nice pickup for $50.

I doubt you’ll need to go to the trouble of rewiring it though. There are plenty of off the shelf controllers that you should be able to plug straight in. Just put the temp control setting to maximum when you’re stilling. The rest of the time the temp control will be handy for heating water to a set temp for mashing.

Cheers & have fun.

That's what I was thinking also.
See if it's possible to turn the knob wide open and plug the pot into a controller.
If it's not possible because the crude design, gut everything other than the element and use a controller.

That would be the easiest route, with once caveat, both of the urns I've worked on with temp control, stats, cut outs etc built in, the wiring for the internals is all thinner gauge than the mains cable coming in.

As someone with electrical know how Rusty, bear that in mind when considering you might be running it on full for hours at a time.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Nice pickup for $50.

I doubt you’ll need to go to the trouble of rewiring it though. There are plenty of off the shelf controllers that you should be able to plug straight in. Just put the temp control setting to maximum when you’re stilling. The rest of the time the temp control will be handy for heating water to a set temp for mashing.

Cheers & have fun.

That's what I was thinking also.
See if it's possible to turn the knob wide open and plug the pot into a controller.
If it's not possible because the crude design, gut everything other than the element and use a controller.

That would be the easiest route, with once caveat, both of the urns I've worked on with temp control, stats, cut outs etc built in, the wiring for the internals is all thinner gauge than the mains cable coming in.

As someone with electrical know how Rusty, bear that in mind when considering you might be running it on full for hours at a time.

Great points guys, I was thinking about that last night after I read Shady's post, you just confirmed my curiosity Moose. I was thinking about the wire gauge to use for a 120v 20a controller and then thought it won't matter if what's in the kettle is junk. There's no telling what's inside that thing, I'm probably just going to burn something up if I build a capacity capable power supply and run that through the lamp cord in that kettle. Honestly, I'm sure it was done as cheaply as possible, so unless I'm totally wrong and it's built right ( ) then I probably will go the total gut route. I bought the thing knowing what I was getting and simply for the kettle and element so I'm down to blow it apart and redo the whole thing. I'll see if I can find a few minutes tonight to pull the bottom cover off and take a peek. I wanted to do it last night, but I had to work on the greenhouse heater when I got home. Wifey has tomatoes that will be ready soon.

Rusty

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

OK, I found a couple of minutes and cracked this thing open. Pretty rinky dink looking to me. Looks like the wire might be 12g and it feels stranded, not sure I'm down with that on 120v. I think I'm jumping on the gut train.

The only thing I'm not sure about is whatever that white thing is on the bottom of the element. I'm assuming it's something to do with the thermometer function, but not exactly sure since the obvious sensor is right there.

What do y'all think?

Rusty

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I also just came across this controller. That might be worth a try for $50 since it's rated at 25a. One guy is supposedly running a welder with it in the reviews.

Variable Speed Controller SCR Voltage Controller Fit for Router Fan Electric Motor Rheostat AC 110V 220V 25A 10000W Max https://a.co/d/gmYgsuG

Rusty

[Yummyrum]

The only thing I'm not sure about is whatever that white thing is on the bottom of the element. I'm assuming it's something to do with the thermometer function, but not exactly sure since the obvious sensor is right there.

What do y'all think?

Rusty

If you mean this thing Rusty , it’s a thermal cut out . They have a temp that when it is exceeded , they click open and save the element from burning out .
When they cool down , they self reset .

It probably had a temp setting of somewhere around 120-150°C
So if the pot boils dry , it detects the sudden increase in element temp and cuts it out .

I’d leave it connected

[MooseMan]

Yeah that's a boil dry sensor for sure.
I disconnected the one I found as the skinny cable made me nervous and it was just one more pair of push on connectors that I don't like.

Interesting to note, there are actually 2 separate element loops in there, the same as the modern tea urn I did with the concealed element.
One is a boiler element, and the other meant for duty as a "Simmer" element. (It's only 150-200w)
I just wired across so that they are both powered on/off together, it looks like in the vevor they do the same.

[MooseMan]

I also just came across this controller. That might be worth a try for $50 since it's rated at 25a. One guy is supposedly running a welder with it in the reviews.

Variable Speed Controller SCR Voltage Controller Fit for Router Fan Electric Motor Rheostat AC 110V 220V 25A 10000W Max https://a.co/d/gmYgsuG

Rusty

I've now bought 3 of these-

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Evm2RTQ

2 have been in use on 230v for quite a while with no issues, controlling a 2kw element, mine usually at 40-70% voltage.
I just make sure to keep on a cool surface when in use.

They sell them with US plugs also.
Note in the details the actual capacity of them is far lower than 10kw!

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

If you mean this thing Rusty , it’s a thermal cut out . They have a temp that when it is exceeded , they click open and save the element from burning out .
When they cool down , they self reset .

It probably had a temp setting of somewhere around 120-150°C
So if the pot boils dry , it detects the sudden increase in element temp and cuts it out .

I’d leave it connected

Thanks for the confirmation Yummy. If I try to keep it, would I just put it into one of the 120v legs then wire to the element? I'm probably going to gut all the other electrical components. I'm pretty sure the temperature selector dial assembly will need to go; it looks like the thermometer is integrated, I'm assuming that controls the heat cycle on and off based on temperature the probe is reading. It's small and frail looking anyway, I'm not really sure it would last through a continuous current flow and with it all chopped up, I don't know that I would trust it not to fail. The indicator lights I really don't care about at all, just more tiny wire to heat up, those will go too. I think the current cord is big enough, so I'm thinking about leaving the neutral wired to the kettle the way it is now and wiring the element directly to the current cord. Exactly the way Moose is wiring the tea urns, then run everything through a controller. That seems the safest way, based on what I've read, to make it do what we need it to.

Rusty

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

Yeah that's a boil dry sensor for sure.
I disconnected the one I found as the skinny cable made me nervous and it was just one more pair of push on connectors that I don't like.

Interesting to note, there are actually 2 separate element loops in there, the same as the modern tea urn I did with the concealed element.
One is a boiler element, and the other meant for duty as a "Simmer" element. (It's only 150-200w)
I just wired across so that they are both powered on/off together, it looks like in the vevor they do the same.

Thanks Moose, I'm undecided about the boil dry sensor. One thing I do know, if I keep it the slide connectors are going away and it'll be soldered inline. Yep, there are two loops, and they are already tied together, they should both come on at the same time. I'm pretty sure at this point I'm going to gut everything else.

I've now bought 3 of these-

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Evm2RTQ

2 have been in use on 230v for quite a while with no issues, controlling a 2kw element, mine usually at 40-70% voltage.
I just make sure to keep on a cool surface when in use.

They sell them with US plugs also.
Note in the details the actual capacity of them is far lower than 10kw!

Thanks for the link, I've never ordered from AliExpress, but maybe it's time I try. Rated at 25a it might actually keep up with an 1800w element.


Rusty

[shadylane]

If your going to gut it here's a rough diagram on how it could be done.
Soldering wires to the thermal snap switch might ruin it.
Reuse the high temp insulated wires and splice them into the power cord away from the hot elements.

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

If your going to gut it here's a rough diagram on how it could be done.
Soldering wires to the thermal snap switch might ruin it.
Reuse the high temp insulated wires and splice them into the power cord away from the hot elements.

I was wondering about that, if overheating the sensor could possibly damage it, but thought it might not matter since it'll just "break the circuit" while I was soldering then go back once it cools. I'm really torn over taking that thing out or leaving it in. I can see the advantage in having it, but, like Moose, I'm a little reluctant to run 120v through 12v speaker fittings.

That route would work for me though, that's easy. Thanks Shady.

Rusty

[shadylane]

I'd recommend keeping the thermal switch and reusing the wires.
If they fail in the future, then you can fix things.

[Yummyrum]

Thats my thinking too Shady . Although they are used in a multitude of applications ,those 1/4” spade terminals are generally rated at 24Amps at 300V .

If they are a very firm push on they will be fine . It’s just if they are a soggy fit , they can overheat . I understand Moose's hesitation .

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

I'd recommend keeping the thermal switch and reusing the wires.
If they fail in the future, then you can fix things.

Thats my thinking too Shady . Although they are used in a multitude of applications ,those 1/4” spade terminals are generally rated at 24Amps at 300V .

If they are a very firm push on they will be fine . It’s just if they are a soggy fit , they can overheat . I understand Moose's hesitation .

Ok, guys I'll keep it and the high temp wires, I'll just make sure everything has a nice tight fit.

Rusty

[Rusty Ole Bucket]

We finally had time to work on the EBII today. We got a lot accomplished actually. We got the power supply working well enough to test run but it's got more tweeking to go. It ran the newly gutted pot for 3 hours at full throttle.

The worst part about modifying the pot was getting rid of the handle on top. It was a an hour of dremel work to get it loose.

Rusty

[shadylane]

Looking good.