Ok, so I bought a Vevor.. Now improving it

[Bristolian]

Hi,

As you may know, I bought a Vevor (model below) some time ago, only recently needed it to produce a clean solvent as high as I could get beyond 40%, to use for solvent extractions.

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I don't need much, so a 12L pot was fine. I've been making wine & beer for years, so washes weren't an issue.

As we have limited space and I've been hit with rheumatism in my hands, things had to be lightweight & easy to store. I'm banned from the kitchen, so I was running out in the lean-to on a folding table, using a cheap Quest tabletop single induction hob.

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Three major issues immediately became apparent:

1) Absolutely crap jointing and sealing on the 8-10mm tubing used.
2) Cooling in that little pan wasn't anywhere near efficient.
3) Massive smearing from the thermal cut-out on the hob.

After a lot of help & support from this forum, & Moose in particular, I've ripped out the crap & am attempting to Build a Better Pot.

After reading the Tea Urn thread, it eventually dawned on me that my hob had TWO methods of heating, and I could use power input (up to 2kW) rather then temperature. Great! Tested & working fine, and a lot faster too!

Next, the hard bit for me - decent cooling. Further reading convinced me that a Leibig was the simplest way to get this.

Trying to keep weight down, I've opted for 15/22mm tubing 600mm long, potentially with an internal copper spiral. Luckily, various pipes were donated by a workmate after renovating his house.


Now the interesting bit..

Assuming I fit the Leibig at an optimum 45 degrees, I'll want a reasonable column height to balance this, maybe 40-60cm?

That's quite a bit of hardware swaying around on a 12L pot lid..

I'm not going down the tri-clamp route yet, so I figured that boring a hole in the lid centre & fitting a decent brass Tank Connector (after swapping the rubber washer for PTFE of course) was a good upgrade on the previous connection - but would this be strong enough? Would a simple support bar between Leibig & column help?

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Happy to receive advice and criticism

Thread will continue as more parts arrive..

[Corn Cracker]

You can get away with a shorter liebig, I made one 13 inches cooling water inlet to outlet for my 5 gallon alembic I use for small runs. It works great

[higgins]

A good reference for you might be this thread on "improvening" a Vevor.
Vevor clone: The Improvening

[Bristolian]

You can get away with a shorter liebig, I made one 13 inches cooling water inlet to outlet for my 5 gallon alembic I use for small runs. It works great

Thanks for the tip! If I go for 400mm (~16in), I'll be okay moving up a pot size then

[Bristolian]

A good reference for you might be this thread on "improvening" a Vevor.
Vevor clone: The Improvening

Yep, that was the main basis for doing mine a bit more carefully

With the above advice too, I can knock the column height down quite a way

[greggn]

Assuming I fit the Leibig at an optimum 45 degrees, I'll want a reasonable column height to balance this, maybe 40-60cm?

Column or riser ?

[Bristolian]

Assuming I fit the Leibig at an optimum 45 degrees, I'll want a reasonable column height to balance this, maybe 40-60cm?

Column or riser ?

In this basic form, I should say 'Riser'. Maybe in the future I may add a gin basket or such (on a bigger pot, that is)

[Yummyrum]

Be aware that brass may contain lead . Although it should be fine if it is just at the base of the riser .
If you are worried , you can “tin” the insides of it with Lead free solder .
Most brass sold for plumbing is now low lead .

[shadylane]

Trying to keep weight down, I've opted for 15/22mm tubing 600mm long, potentially with an internal copper spiral. Luckily, various pipes were donated by a workmate after renovating his house.


Now the interesting bit..

Assuming I fit the Leibig at an optimum 45 degrees, I'll want a reasonable column height to balance this, maybe 40-60cm?

That's quite a bit of hardware swaying around on a 12L pot lid..

To keep the lid from having to support the condenser and all the extra weight of water, cooling hoses, etc.
Maybe build a stand to hold the PC up. Then use copper tubing to connect the Pot to the PC.

[Corn Cracker]

Be aware that brass may contain lead . Although it should be fine if it is just at the base of the riser .
If you are worried , you can “tin” the insides of it with Lead free solder .
Most brass sold for plumbing is now low lead .

Most all new brass, for plumbing anyways, is labeled lead free, whether its that it has just such a small amount in it that it can be called lead free or if its actually lead free, idk.

[MooseMan]

Since you're going to have to solder to make the Liebig (I'll say again, make it as long as you can or regret it) why not solder a copper fitting to the lid Bris?

Since you don't want to go Tri clamp yet, you could do the end stop trick that I used with my little gin still?
I've done that 3 times now making stills for others, and it works really well.
Have a look at "Stock pot gin still" as that also has a solution for taking the weight of the PC, off the fitting and lid.
But don't get distracted by my crazy air cooled PC!

[Saltbush Bill]

Since you're going to have to solder to make the Liebig (I'll say again, make it as long as you can o

Some good advice right there, there is no more soldering involved in making a long liebig than there is to make a short one.
Parts list is the same as well, only difference is the length of inner tube and outer shell

[Corn Cracker]

Yes, the short one is dedicated to the alembic, I made a long one that is use on the big pot. But if thats going to be a set up you will keep for spirit runs in the future, it will be good to have for that purpose instead of a 5 foot liebig on a small still sitting on the stove top. Liebigs are cheap and easy to make

[Bristolian]

Be aware that brass may contain lead . Although it should be fine if it is just at the base of the riser .
If you are worried , you can “tin” the insides of it with Lead free solder .
Most brass sold for plumbing is now low lead .

Most all new brass, for plumbing anyways, is labeled lead free, whether its that it has just such a small amount in it that it can be called lead free or if its actually lead free, idk.

I wasn't aware of this at all, info very much appreciated - the fittings are all brand new though, I've had to buy all the tools/accessories as I've never done any home plumbing before so nothing in the spares bin!

[Bristolian]

To keep the lid from having to support the condenser and all the extra weight of water, cooling hoses, etc.
Maybe build a stand to hold the PC up. Then use copper tubing to connect the Pot to the PC.

Good tip! I have several 'mini' style camera tripods knocking about that might work

[Bristolian]

I'll say again, make it as long as you can or regret it

The Maths did say 12L x 2kW = 600mm optimum with a coil, but I've seen quite a few posts going shorter.. I've got enough piping now to bang out a few variants for testing, I'll start doing some drawings today as I'm off work, see what's going to give me minimal weight/compactness vs oomph.

Since you're going to have to solder to make the Liebig why not solder a copper fitting to the lid Bris?
Since you don't want to go Tri clamp yet, you could do the end stop trick that I used with my little gin still?

I'm guessing that would involve silver solder though? Maybe once I've got normal soldering under my belt - that size would certainly go well on the future tea urn build Also, I need to consider 'pack away' size so the entire assembly can be broken down - is that end stop soldered to the riser or just free with PTFE tape?

But don't get distracted by my crazy air cooled PC!

Wow - that's some condenser. Strangely enough, my job is I.T. hardware, and I'd also considered modding CPU water cooling!

[MooseMan]

I did a couple of bits of stainless to copper soldering with just normal flux and silver solder yes.
But the right flux does make the job far easier to be honest.
You can get little bottles on AliExpress for like £3.

I solder the end cap to the pot lid, then drill it out. Not my idea I saw another user on here do it for a build.
The end of the riser gets a couple of wraps of PTFE tape each run and it seals into the end cap really nicely with a little push and a turn.
Same for the riser to PC connection but with a copper reducer fitting.
That way you can remove and break the riser and PC down to store away.

Yes I love my little air cooled PC, it's great for gin runs on the hob, as I don't have to worry about water lines.
Start saving up all your spare Ali heat sinks just in case you fancy a go mate.

[Bristolian]

Just knocked up an idea - using a hammered flat pipe in a T-piece to create a hammock rest for the liebig, using the pan handle to take the weight.. just a couple of elastic bands should hold it in place on the condenser, as it won't be hot on the outside.

This might look a bit lightweight (good for me) but bear in mind the original pipe was barely 10mm at best (not measured it yet)

condenser upgrade.jpg

[Bristolian]

I did a couple of bits of stainless to copper soldering with just normal flux and silver solder yes.
But the right flux does make the job far easier to be honest.
You can get little bottles on AliExpress for like £3.

I solder the end cap to the pot lid, then drill it out. Not my idea I saw another user on here do it for a build.
The end of the riser gets a couple of wraps of PTFE tape each run and it seals into the end cap really nicely with a little push and a turn.
Same for the riser to PC connection but with a copper reducer fitting.
That way you can remove and break the riser and PC down to store away.

Yes I love my little air cooled PC, it's great for gin runs on the hob, as I don't have to worry about water lines.
Start saving up all your spare Ali heat sinks just in case you fancy a go mate.

Can you link the flux please Moose? I found a pic of the label in another post, but can't find it again today

I guess I can do without the brass onto the condenser, if I can leave the 15mm reducer end on my diagram unsoldered?

[MooseMan]

Can you link the flux please Moose? I found a pic of the label in another post, but can't find it again today

I guess I can do without the brass onto the condenser, if I can leave the 15mm reducer end on my diagram unsoldered?

This stuff mate.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJGFgIu

Up to you on the brass, I don't like it as I think it could still potentially leach metals in contact with hot, high proof solvents.

[Bristolian]

Thanks! Ordered - £0.74 with free delivery - nice

Hell's Bells, I didn't realise 'lead free' was actually '8% lead is fine'. Ok, that idea's now in the bin.

What % silver solder is going to be the best? Tiz pricey stuff..

[Copperhead road]

Hell's Bells, I didn't realise 'lead free' was actually '8% lead is fine'. Ok, that idea's now in the bin.
.

I don’t use brass but I didn’t realise lead free brass still actually contained a percentage of lead. I wonder how accurate the lead free test kits are and if they would detect the 8% lead.

[Bristolian]

I don’t use brass but I didn’t realise lead free brass still actually contained a percentage of lead. I wonder how accurate the lead free test kits are and if they would detect the 8% lead.

US EPA 1417(d): pipes, pipe fittings, and well pumps may not contain more than 8.0% lead.

EU: As of the current regulations, brass fittings used in systems that carry drinking water within the European Union can contain up to 0.2% lead by weight. This limit is part of the broader regulations set forth by the Drinking Water Directive and aims to minimize lead exposure in potable water systems.

Update to this EU regulation in Dec 2026 halves that to 0.1%

More specifically:

The UK currently allows brass fittings with lead content up to 0.25%, but the regulations are evolving. By 2026, similar to the EU, it is expected that the limit will be reduced to 0.1%, reinforcing the commitment to safe drinking water systems.

This is under WRAS certification, which my brass fittings comply with, apparently.

'My Friend' says:

While WRAS-certified brass fittings may be deemed safe for drinking water, caution is warranted when using such fittings in distillation setups.

[Bristolian]

Up to you on the brass, I don't like it as I think it could still potentially leach metals in contact with hot, high proof solvents.

Might explain the black gunk in the threads of the brass pieces of the original Vevor condenser

[MooseMan]

Up to you on the brass, I don't like it as I think it could still potentially leach metals in contact with hot, high proof solvents.

Might explain the black gunk in the threads of the brass pieces of the original Vevor condenser

You could very well be correct there. The stuff in the heads and tails is not just ethanol remember.

We are distilling a varied soup of higher and lower alcohols, all of which have different interactions with other compounds.

Look how aggressive acetone is as a solvent, for example.

[Bristolian]

I've seen this solder available in the UK recommended:

https://cupalloys.co.uk/products/2207-f ... 0791032113

Now, some say normal plumbers solder will work with a good enough flux, some say 5% silver or higher..

This price isn't too bad, free shipping as well

[Bristolian]

A few more pieces just arrived, so had enough for a dry run. On impulse, I went to 500mm.

De-burred fresh ends, a little bit of internal filing, everything slid together snug & fine. Major psychological hurdle passed

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The coolant nozzles are 15x10mm self-solder reducers, with a stub of 15mm connecting them to the main jacket reducer - just an easy way to connect a suitable hose with a nice ring for a retention clip.

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Apologies for the pinky-purple glow, that's my wife's Dragon Fruit seedlings under a growlight on the window ledge!

Next up.. practicing a wire coil.

[Bristolian]

Had some doubts about the 10mm capacity for flow rate, but my smartypants AI says the setup can cope with up to 25L/min, far more than needed (UK mains is around 3 Bar, max - condenser flow should only need to be around 15L/min at the extreme end).

Because I'm always one to overdo it, I'm considering the potential of adding an interior copper wire coil to increase vapour turbulence.



I've been told he coil acts as a turbulator in the vapour path, inducing mixing and extending vapour residence time against the cold walls for faster condensation. It also adds copper surface area that conducts heat efficiently, mimicking copper mesh packing used by distillers to handle higher heat loads or reduce water use. Soldering at ends keeps it secure while loose spacing (e.g., 6-inch spirals) avoids blockages.

[MooseMan]

See, you're a natural!

That should do a good job for you.

If you're going to be running quite a high flow rate through the jacket, a wire spiral might cause some turbulence, but at lower flow rates, the water won't care about the spiral, it will just flow happily and lazily around it!

The AI response you got demonstrates perfectly, why AI has to be treated very carefully.
The response is talking about vapour not water.

FYI bris, all AI content is considered unacceptable on this forum.

[Bristolian]

No worries, I'll keep my AI off the forum - but in this case, it was referring to vapour because it was an internal coil down the condenser tube itself, not water flow between skins. I'll try it out vs clear path, see if it makes any visible difference. I know the advice is mixed on adding extra to the tube.