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Non mechanized PRV

Haven't thought about several water traps in series. That's thinking outside the box.
But will it work?

does work

I drew it incorrectly.......
Need to keep top elevation lower so that 180 bends stay filled. No need to waste water column potential.

Well this thread just got interesting! Thank you for your input LWTCS. So, the picture you posted looks a lot like a manometer. I've never seen one that could hold 15 psi though. I'd love to hear more about how it could be built to do so. Also your opinion on its use vs a mechanical pressure valve.

Shady I don't know if I mentioned before how jealous I am of that sweet boiler. The more I think about it the more I like it.

shadylane you can purchase a PTFE o-ring that fits the inside diameter of that bain marie.

down side is having to build a lid to fit the o-ring.

Brutal wrote:Well this thread just got interesting! Thank you for your input LWTCS. So, the picture you posted looks a lot like a manometer. I've never seen one that could hold 15 psi though.

brutal; 15 PSI = 34.6 FEET of water column.

Brutal wrote:I've never seen one that could hold 15 psi though. I'd love to hear more about how it could be built to do so.

Prolly only need a half bar. That would get us to just over 230 degrees.

To get seven and a half pounds we would need about 17 linear ft of water column.

This drawing works better that the first.

I don't think additional loops in the manometer will raise the release pressure.
The last loop would syphon the water out of the manometer.

Let's mock it up and test it.

LWTCS wrote:Let's mock it up and test it.

When in doubt give it a try

shadylane wrote:I don't think additional loops in the manometer will raise the release pressure.
The last loop would syphon the water out of the manometer.

Needs a vacuum break then but not sure it would be requisite.

I'll probably install two 4500w LWD heaters in the bain marie.
The heat transfer fluid will most likely be Glycerin.
Although Propylene Glycol or vegetable oil would work also.
What ever I use, will be safe for food contact.
Posting with LWTCS
I have some vinyl hose to make the test water trap out of, and a 7 foot tall manometer to compare it with.

I'll use 17 to 20 linear ft of 3/4 PVC and a hand full of elbows.
I'll post pics or post a link to the video.

Here's my prototype, the loops are 36" and the tubing is 1/4" ID
Is the container on the output end of your water trap, just for a catch can or does it start with water in it?

Just a catch can so anyone standing within range doesn't get hose with hot liquid.

In the morning I'll test it. Sure hope your right and it works.
Figure to use a Tee, so I can connect the water trap and my tall manometer together and blow into both of them at the same time.
I'll forgo my blood pressure medicine and be sitting down when I try blowing into it.

Watching with interest.

I'm going to leave one end a bit long, put a slip to thread adapter on so that I can meter in the air pressure.

The experiment was a bust.
A water trap with multiple loops doesn't work

Did you have any head space at all?

I tried it with head space and without.
I edited my post because I originaly said a multiple loop water trap and a single loop blew out at the same pressure.
That isn't true with no air space the water trap blew dry immediately.
With head space the water trap blew dry as soon as the water rose over the last loop.
That was around 3" WP
Edited once again to correct of old timers.
"With no air space the water trap blew dry immediately"
The water trap didn't blow dry. Water started coming over the top

Bummer

Welp, I mocked up this here and will try and pressurize to a half bar in the morning.

Your test rig looks a hell of a lot prettier than mine.
How are you going to completely fill the loops and get the air out?

Dumb question, I see the answer.

shadylane wrote:Your test rig looks a hell of a lot prettier than mine.
How are you going to completely fill the loops and get the air out?

Yeah good call.
I have some 180 bends that have a 19 mm x 3/4 trclamp ferrule installed at the crown of the bend. I'll put 1 or 2 of those at the top and attempt to bleed any air bubbles out of the,,,,,,,thing,,,,,, as I charge it with water.


Edit:
Legit question I think!

Disconnect from the boiler at the Tee.
Plug the long pipe on the other end. Stand it it on end, so the plug is at the bottom.
Fill it with water and reconnect it to the boiler.

Ah,,,Roger that.

My air fill nozzle does have a gauge. But not very accurate.

I do have some other gauges that we use to pressure test the large tanks but they only start at 30 psi.

I'll try and round up a lower psi scale gauge on my way into the shop in the morning so we can get a more precise measurement.

For measuring low pressures there's nothing simpler or cheaper than a manometer.
Plus there's the added benefit of having a super accurate and reliable PRV.
Here's the manometer I use on the boiler. The outlet vents outside.

Nice.
What is the colored fluid in the meter?