Screwing the ferrule to the pot lid?

[Steve Broady]

It looks like he used an inverted stainless bowl, and a floor flange to attach the column. I was going to suggest the bowl as well, I think it’ll do everything the TC ferrule would, cheaper and easier. You could also weld some threaded studs onto the pot lid, and then just hold the bowl down with washers and wing nuts, as he’s done in the post you mentioned. No need to have any loose fasteners inside the pot that way.

[Chucker]

Thanks for posting the photo, it provides a lot more clarity to what you are thinking of. I still think you’re going to have nothing but problems with a lack of sturdiness inherent to the lid. The material is just too thin to a) not wiggle and flex all over, or b) to offer enough rigidity to allow any type of screw fastener to seal tightly enough. Even if you use nuts and washers on the backside how will you hold them in place for tightening? And a 5” hole will make a nice cutting hazard for your arm when reaching through.
Welding the lid around the outside will leave a nice gap around the inside edge that will never be cleaned and the welding alone will probably warp the rest of the lid.
You’ve been asking what everyone thinks of this idea but everyone who has responded has been trying to talk you out of this notion for a variety of pretty valid reasons. Will it work? There’s no reason why it probably can’t be made to. Are there better ways to do it? The good folks here are trying. There are solutions to this already proven and in place. Over time, as your interest and skills grow, you’ll still have a nice base test rig for small batch projects and your column parts will work just as well on a bigger pot.
I’ll be one to confess that sometimes I just have to find out for myself and at least some of the responses you’ve been seeing are likely borne of that. It’s an inherent DIY’er trait, I think. But nobody wants to see you throw good money after bad. We’d all much rather see you start into this hobby with a resounding success story and I think all of the concerns and opinions here reflect that.

[ThomasBrewer]

Depending on how big your forearms are, 4" fittings are often big enough to get your arm in there to clean things out. I'd strongly suggest not going with an odd-ball size like 5" and trying to find reducers and fittings to match. As Yummy said, 4" or 6" are common sizes.

There're several reasons to use 5"
1. There ain't room for 6"
2. Ya got a 5" column.
3. Your arm won't fit in a 4"
4. Ya got lucky and found a good deal on 5" ferrules and clamps.

I can't argue with that logic. Cheers!

[ThomasBrewer]

Yes Steve I found something similar, but I was thinking about something like this, you see the bolts on the ferrule base?
Clipboard02.jpg

He's mounting the ferrule upside down and attaching it with small bolts, but claims to have a welder that's able to permanently connect the lid to the pot. Why on earth wouldn't he weld the ferrule to the top of the lid correctly. I this point, I can only assume he's trolling.

[October]

Yes Steve I found something similar, but I was thinking about something like this, you see the bolts on the ferrule base?
Clipboard02.jpg

He's mounting the ferrule upside down and attaching it with small bolts, but claims to have a welder that's able to permanently connect the lid to the pot. Why on earth wouldn't he weld the ferrule to the top of the lid correctly. I this point, I can only assume he's trolling.

Wow you sound not just rude, but also thick indeed. I am welding it.

[October]

It looks like he used an inverted stainless bowl, and a floor flange to attach the column. I was going to suggest the bowl as well, I think it’ll do everything the TC ferrule would, cheaper and easier. You could also weld some threaded studs onto the pot lid, and then just hold the bowl down with washers and wing nuts, as he’s done in the post you mentioned. No need to have any loose fasteners inside the pot that way.

Probably he used the bowl because he wanted to reduce size without any cutting or welding. In fact there are bolts on the bowl base as well.

[ecir54]

^^^ i ran a keg like that when first started back in the day when the yahoo group was around in the early 2000's. you have to understand back then we didn't have the products that we have today and did what we had do nor were internet forums available. I served me well for years just more time consuming during assembly and disassembly.

[Saltbush Bill]

As above, bowls where used back in the days before we had better options.....unless you really really have to it's not the best of ways.

[October]

Is it ok if I put a compression fitting as elbow, at the end of the riser? I think it's brass but the olive is copper.

[MooseMan]

Is it ok if I put a compression fitting as elbow, at the end of the riser? I think it's brass but the olive is copper.

I wouldn't use brass in the vapour path personally, but I know some people are willing to risk it.

So where did you get to on the lid connection you were suggesting?

I'm interested to see how you decided to go, as I put a similar rig together for making gin recently and despite having some pretty chunky copper coming up off the lid, I've had no issues whatsoever with an ever lasting gasket and clips.

[October]

Is it ok if I put a compression fitting as elbow, at the end of the riser? I think it's brass but the olive is copper.

I wouldn't use brass in the vapour path personally, but I know some people are willing to risk it.

So where did you get to on the lid connection you were suggesting?

I'm interested to see how you decided to go, as I put a similar rig together for making gin recently and despite having some pretty chunky copper coming up off the lid, I've had no issues whatsoever with an ever lasting gasket and clips.

I changed my mind regarding the screwing method, I already ordered the double ferrule including the gasket and the triclamp, so it will be normal. I don't know if the screwing method would work, but since the price was about the same, I am not going to risk. Anyway regarding the brass elbow, I think many people use it after the elbow, so it will be in the vapour path anyway. It's a lead free brass compression fitting, and the olives will be wrapped with PTFE tape, to prevent leaks. I like the idea of unassembling the copper pipe going to the condenser. What do you think?

[MooseMan]

Well, what I did on my mini still has worked really well for me and I've not had one problem despite using it quite a lot now. Not my idea I just did loads of research and decided that would be my best option.

I can remove from the pot and break the riser, lyne arm and condenser apart quickly with no tools. Assembly and sealing is quick and simple, easy to adjust and only takes a couple of wraps of PTFE on each joint.

Do a search for "Stock pot gin still" and have a look mate.
Any questions feel free to shout, I'm a novice too but if I can help anyone on their way I'm happy.

[October]

Do a search for "Stock pot gin still" and have a look mate.
Any questions feel free to shout, I'm a novice too but if I can help anyone on their way I'm happy.

Sure I will search it now, I'm reading a lot.

[Sporacle]

viewtopic.php?t=66917&p=7558515#p7558515
I think this is the one Moose is referring to for the stock pot still, it's in SS signature

[MooseMan]

viewtopic.php?t=66917&p=7558515#p7558515
I think this is the one Moose is referring to for the stock pot still, it's in SS signature

No actually Sporacle, it was another guy who I took inspiration from, he was the person who worked out how easy it was to solder a copper end cap onto a stainless pot lid as a riser joint, by trapping a coiled up ring of solder between them and heating up until it flows.
It works amazingly well I just wish I'd made a note of his name so I could say thanks. Can't find it again.

[Sporacle]

Sweet Moose, I've just had a quick search and can't find it either. Did find a heap of interesting stuff though