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Hawaiian punch

shadylane wrote:The experiment was a bust.
A water trap with multiple loops doesn't work

Ditto. Total bust.

I stopped and puicked up a 1 bar max gauge.
I could only get the vessel to hold one pound before it started to push out water.

In my mind I could see it working perfectly. In my brain,,,,,,,not so much.

brutal; 15 PSI = 34.6 FEET of water column.

"lwtcs" To get seven and a half pounds we would need about 17 linear ft of water column.

guy's a water column needs to be vertical, not just distance.

You ready to join myth busters yet
Posting with cob

cob wrote:brutal; 15 PSI = 34.6 FEET of water column.

"lwtcs" To get seven and a half pounds we would need about 17 linear ft of water column.

guy's a water column needs to be vertical, not just distance.

Loud and clear.

On the positive note, we were able to conclude that 17 linear ft of piping, looped in 2 ft multiples can handle 1 psi

Before you guys tear your experiments down, try filling the vertical pipes just barely half way.

All the down sections have a cumulative negative effect on it. Just think siphon.

Shoot,,,took everything apart and re shelved it already.

pfshine wrote:All the down sections have a cumulative negative effect on it. Just think siphon.

Totally makes sense.

LWTCS wrote: we were able to conclude that 17 linear ft of piping, looped in 2 ft multiples can handle 1 psi

now you can calibrate temperature with pressure using your chart by raising the open end. ie.17' for 7.5 psi.

larry your test rig made me drool on my keyboard

cob wrote:now you can calibrate temperature with pressure using your chart by raising the open end. ie.17' for 7.5 psi.

Haha. Yesss the scenic route.

Brutal wrote:Before you guys tear your experiments down, try filling the vertical pipes just barely half way.

I already did. My 3 foot tall water trap held back 36 inches of water pressure.

Here's the first modification.
The 1" drain valve is too small for handling mash or fruit.
This will get interesting, because the drain pipe passes through the water jacket.
Before I forget, LWTCS thanks for the idea, even if it was a bust.
If it had worked out, I wouldn't be getting on the roof in the future

Sorry for side tracking your thread.

So far as I can tell, this vessel is the nicest hobby sized solution for cooking (or distilling on the grain) that I can recall ever seeing

Kinda the holly grail I think.

It wasn't a side track, it was useable information related to the subject.
A water trap 3 foot tall that could hold back 7psi or more would have been great.
It would have changed the path the build would have taken.

Was basing my assertion on this.

Leads me to believe there is simply no real pressure in a typical open system.

Those would be good for both under and over pressure.
That's one of the great things about a water trap or manometer.
They work for vacuum or pressure and reliable, gravity powers the moving parts

Not to sound like a broken record.
BUT every still needs a water trap or Manometer for a PRV
Off the soap box and back on subject

shadylane wrote:Not to sound like a broken record.
BUT every still needs a water trap or Manometer for a PRV
Off the soap box and back on subject

LWTCS wrote:Was basing my assertion on this.

Leads me to believe there is simply no real pressure in a typical open system.

As long as the system is open, there's not much pressure, maybe an inch, more or less of water pressure.
If my math is right that's something like .04psi

Some of the parts needed for the bain marie came in today.
Now, I'll have to find the time to fire up the welder.

Best wishes.

I've been brain storming with Yakattack, he's got a similar project going. http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 88&t=59576
Brutal mentioned some older posts by Swede. After searching I couldn't find any real info other than a description.

Here's how I think it was done.
The heater warms the water and therefor the mash in the bain marie.
The water doesn't boil until the mash gets hot enough to quit stealing heat from it.
Once the water starts boiling, the steam is injected into the mash

To keep the brainstorming going...
If we can get sanatary safe conditions why not put clear beer in the double wall. You just bumped up a bit of the charge size.

Don't forget drain and fill ports for the double wall.

Now this would need to be run a few times to figure out how much would actually boil off into the charge but if done right,I think it's a step to making it more efficient as well.

Yak.

yakattack wrote:To keep the brainstorming going...
If we can get sanatary safe conditions why not put clear beer in the double wall

I thought about that, but there's a couple reasons why not to.
Cleaning the inside of the water jacket would be a bitch.
Also the beer would boil at the same temp as the mash.
For reasons of heat transfer, the liquid in the water jacket needs to boil at a higher temp than the mash.

I can see cleaning being an issue but as to it needing to boil at a higher temp not true. Steam rigs (thumpers) run with alcohol in both boilers. Speed will be affected to a point but with the double wall area only being a fraction of the main charge.

At least that's how I see it.

Yak

You got a point right there, since the bain marie turns into a steam injection boiler when the jacket liquid starts boiling.

Still I'm seeing cleaNing to be an issue. Might have to istill a few cip balls. Dam that's an expensive mod.
Yak

Here's a mod that will probably get done.
The idea is to increase the amount of water in the hybrid bain marie/steam rig.
Figure I'll need the extra water to keep the heating element submerged.
The downside is it will take longer to heat up.
But I've got no problem with flipping a switch earlier to make up for it.
On the plus side, you can dump and refill the mash with the hot water in the jacket.
Long story short. A second distillation could be done quicker than the first.

No real need for that Shady. If you hook the drain for the jacket up to a bucket or reservoir the jacket will always be the same level as the reservoir (close.) Less volume = less heat up time.

I didn't think of that idea.
But I've already started down this path now.
Here's what it looks like on the inside.