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Sandslinger wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:06 am https://www.distillinguk.uk/wp-content/ ... -copy.jpg .
It looks like it might save me from having to solder steel against copper, which as I understand can be a big pain in the ass...

Just so you know.....that “red” O-ring is silicone. And you know what we say about silicone in a still....tsk, tsk, tsk.

The threaded T/C adapter is nifty, but welded ferrules are much more robust.
ss

still_stirrin wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:31 am

Sandslinger wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:06 am https://www.distillinguk.uk/wp-content/ ... -copy.jpg .
It looks like it might save me from having to solder steel against copper, which as I understand can be a big pain in the ass...

Just so you know.....that “red” O-ring is silicone. And you know what we say about silicone in a still....tsk, tsk, tsk.

The threaded T/C adapter is nifty, but welded ferrules are much more robust.
ss

Sandslinger soldering copper to stainless is not the PITA you make it out to be. research is invaluable.

cob wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 1:34 pm

still_stirrin wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:31 am

Sandslinger wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:06 am https://www.distillinguk.uk/wp-content/ ... -copy.jpg .
It looks like it might save me from having to solder steel against copper, which as I understand can be a big pain in the ass...

Just so you know.....that “red” O-ring is silicone. And you know what we say about silicone in a still....tsk, tsk, tsk.

The threaded T/C adapter is nifty, but welded ferrules are much more robust.
ss

Sandslinger soldering copper to stainless is not the PITA you make it out to be. research is invaluable.

+1 Easy

Like all soldering, its only a pain in the ass if you're working with the wrong materials.

cob wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 1:34 pm

still_stirrin wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:31 am

Sandslinger wrote: ↑Sun Oct 25, 2020 11:06 am https://www.distillinguk.uk/wp-content/ ... -copy.jpg .
It looks like it might save me from having to solder steel against copper, which as I understand can be a big pain in the ass...

Just so you know.....that “red” O-ring is silicone. And you know what we say about silicone in a still....tsk, tsk, tsk.

The threaded T/C adapter is nifty, but welded ferrules are much more robust.
ss

Sandslinger soldering copper to stainless is not the PITA you make it out to be. research is invaluable.

Thanks I am going to give it a try and do some practice runs this week. Regarding research that comment irked me a little. Not because I haven't done any research, but because the amount of conflicting information I find is immense and often the more I read from different sources the harder it gets to discover the truth.

Rant/On
I thought the training world was bad for bro science but the alcohol world seems even more so. Just consider how many professional distillers insist that the myth that the first thing that comes out of a still is pure methanol. Heck my science teacher at school insisted that alcohol making is illegal because if you do it wrong you create enough methanol to kill you. This was the man paid from tax money to teach youths chemistry, telling me a provable lie.

As far as welding is concerned several shops sell these handmade fittings that saves having to solder on steel, because as one of them said and I quote" Most amateurs can solder so this leads us to the copper or brass . The 2″ Stainless Ferrules are £3.35 + p&p each. They need to welded into position."

Similarly another vendor told me when I specifically asked if they had PTFE exchange for that silicone ring above that "I have been reading too many forums and that silicone and brass is used in brewing and distilling the world over"

I get that a shop might have a a bias to lie about such things, but I come from a culture where business is super regulated, so they don't get away with lying so I guess I might be a bit naïve to it. On the other side my country has either banned or regulated all shops that sell most of these type of items so you have to have a corporate ID to even get in the door. so I am having to buy everything unseen from out of country, and rely on the vendors being honest . So It's not like I can even go in and personally ask advice about the equipment. Rant/Off

I finished my condenser and I am rather proud of it for a first attempt https://ibb.co/h748Q6J There ended up being a bit of a discrepancy between the inner and outer coil. WIth the inner being 150mm and the outer at 200mm, but i guess that won't be a issue ?

Next I am looking for some advice for how to connect it to water.

I guess soldering something like this onto the 6mm copper pipe then connecting the next part to a silcone tube would do the trick ? The guide's tend to pass by this sequence, as I guess they are obvious to most people =)

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Propane-Qu ... BF8FA9C1DM

https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals- ... J00T45TFQ5

I finally received every piece for my boka.

I have a copper tube that I am ready to cut the slants for. I came across some advice about making a mitre, and after googling what the hell that is I made the thing as pictured below.
https://ibb.co/0Js805n
https://ibb.co/whdkJbg
https://ibb.co/B2bmLsZ

I measured out my cuts with two bits of tape on the side, and by using the original PDF template for a 2 Inch, and came up with what looks like 40mm deep cuts right angle from top to bottom.

My understanding so far is that all I need to do now is run my saw horizontally down my mitre which is slanted at 30°, and test the depth to ensure I have an overlap.

I came across the comment below, and I am not sure I understand the implications of it ?

The amount of overlap isn't overly critical, you just need to have a complete overlap... And as long as the centering tab actually centers the reflux the layout of the bottom plate isn't overly critical... Remember, the further past column center each plate extends, the greater the increase in vapor speed through the reduced area in the dual plate section...

Does this mean that if the overlap is too large it will start to create higher pressure in the vapor coming up ? I guess this could have implications for the condensers ability to cool it quick enough ?

https://ibb.co/BjRqhyQ
This is copper plate I found at the scrapyard, any reason why this isn't good for the slant plates ?. It seems to be the exact thickness of my saw.

Somewhere around here I think there is a template that can be printed out. The template can then be taped to the column and used as a cutting guide.
Just not sure where its kept. . Someone else might find it for you.
Edit
Just found it.... a search for "slant plate template" finds it.

I don't think you'll have a problem. Bottom to top, What is the spacing between your slots?

Never bothered with a jig myself, just taped on the template and used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut the slot.