Lil Ugly

[Wildcats]

SMF the HD bargain hunter, love it!

Keep us all supplied with updates please Wildcats, with pics of course!

+1 SMF. Thanks for the links. Those copper caps are perfect for the mini gin still I'm collecting parts for.

Be prepared for a wait when ordering from this company. I ordered my cap on 11/5. And they are shipping my cap today. I will say they have responded to emails in a timely manner. Good luck with your build Sir.

Well, I'm in no hurry. Being the cheap bastard I am. I'm collecting for a reflux and the mini gin. You've given me a little inspiration . Looking good what u got so far

Tracking number says my package will arrive Monday.

[Bradster68]

+1 SMF. Thanks for the links. Those copper caps are perfect for the mini gin still I'm collecting parts for.

Be prepared for a wait when ordering from this company. I ordered my cap on 11/5. And they are shipping my cap today. I will say they have responded to emails in a timely manner. Good luck with your build Sir.

Well, I'm in no hurry. Being the cheap bastard I am. I'm collecting for a reflux and the mini gin. You've given me a little inspiration . Looking good what u got so far

Tracking number says my package will arrive Monday.

Gotta love those tracking #s

[Wildcats]

My cap is here! I am very pleased with the quality of the cap. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to attach it to the kettle. Here is a few pictures.

the cap almost fits inside and almost fits outside. So I'll have to figure out how to make it work .. I will... just not tonight. Thoughts?!

[Wildcats]

Gonna have to annel the cap and get it to bend out some to slide over the bottom....

[Salt Must Flow]

My cap is here! I am very pleased with the quality of the cap. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to attach it to the kettle. Here is a few pictures.IMG_20231120_165151.jpgIMG_20231120_165112.jpgIMG_20231120_165138.jpgIMG_20231120_165128.jpg the cap almost fits inside and almost fits outside. So I'll have to figure out how to make it work .. I will... just not tonight. Thoughts?!

Check out this post. That link discusses expanding the diameter of copper pipe to mate with a Tri-Clamp ferrule, but I don't see why that wouldn't work in this case too.

[Wildcats]

My cap is here! I am very pleased with the quality of the cap. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to attach it to the kettle. Here is a few pictures.IMG_20231120_165151.jpgIMG_20231120_165112.jpgIMG_20231120_165138.jpgIMG_20231120_165128.jpg the cap almost fits inside and almost fits outside. So I'll have to figure out how to make it work .. I will... just not tonight. Thoughts?!

Check out this post. That link discusses expanding the diameter of copper pipe to mate with a Tri-Clamp ferrule, but I don't see why that wouldn't work in this case too.

I think that approach will work. I'll first cut me a jig out of wood to put in my vice to beat against. Make it like 115/8" .....

[MooseMan]

Gonna have to annel the cap and get it to bend out some to slide over the bottom....

Cats could you not just snip the boiler wall to reduce the diameter at the top, so the cap fits over?

Only like the top inch or whatever of the boiler wall, to accommodate that skirt on the base of the cap. Once you've snipped and bent the sides in a touch to fit the cap nice and snug, you can then solder the snipped slots at the same time as the cap is soldered on.

Oh man I wish I could get copper sheet ....

[Salt Must Flow]

My cap is here! I am very pleased with the quality of the cap. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to attach it to the kettle. Here is a few pictures.IMG_20231120_165151.jpgIMG_20231120_165112.jpgIMG_20231120_165138.jpgIMG_20231120_165128.jpg the cap almost fits inside and almost fits outside. So I'll have to figure out how to make it work .. I will... just not tonight. Thoughts?!

Check out this post. That link discusses expanding the diameter of copper pipe to mate with a Tri-Clamp ferrule, but I don't see why that wouldn't work in this case too.

I think that approach will work. I'll first cut me a jig out of wood to put in my vice to beat against. Make it like 115/8" .....

All you really need to do is put a piece of wood in the vice. You can set the cone on the piece of wood and gently hit the proper location with a hammer while rotating the cone. Technically ... if the cone and the boiler is of the same ID and OD ... it's up to you whether you expand the cone or the boiler.

[Wildcats]

Gonna have to annel the cap and get it to bend out some to slide over the bottom....

Cats could you not just snip the boiler wall to reduce the diameter at the top, so the cap fits over?

Only like the top inch or whatever of the boiler wall, to accommodate that skirt on the base of the cap. Once you've snipped and bent the sides in a touch to fit the cap nice and snug, you can then solder the snipped slots at the same time as the cap is soldered on.

Oh man I wish I could get copper sheet ....

Sounds like it would work..... We will see what I come up with.

[Wildcats]

My cap is here! I am very pleased with the quality of the cap. Now I just have to figure out how I'm going to attach it to the kettle. Here is a few pictures.IMG_20231120_165151.jpgIMG_20231120_165112.jpgIMG_20231120_165138.jpgIMG_20231120_165128.jpg the cap almost fits inside and almost fits outside. So I'll have to figure out how to make it work .. I will... just not tonight. Thoughts?!

Check out this post. That link discusses expanding the diameter of copper pipe to mate with a Tri-Clamp ferrule, but I don't see why that wouldn't work in this case too.

I think that approach will work. I'll first cut me a jig out of wood to put in my vice to beat against. Make it like 115/8" .....

All you really need to do is put a piece of wood in the vice. You can set the cone on the piece of wood and gently hit the proper location with a hammer while rotating the cone. Technically ... if the cone and the boiler is of the same ID and OD ... it's up to you whether you expand the cone or the boiler.

Looks like I might be rained out today... So I may get to it today. The issue I have is the walls aren't perfectly round and are a bit bigger than the cap. I think if I heat up the cap and beat on it (gently) I can make it slide over the bottom. ......

[jonnys_spirit]

I’m thinking that if you make the cap slide and pressure fit into the boiler it’s going to be a more rigid joint and you can also more easily fill any vapor gap once the lid is set with a flour dough/paste to seal it during a run if leaks develop.

The top looks smaller in this one than it did in the original pic. Is a TC going to fit on top?

Cheers,
Jonny

[Wildcats]

I’m thinking that if you make the cap slide and pressure fit into the boiler it’s going to be a more rigid joint and you can also more easily fill any vapor gap once the lid is set with a flour dough/paste to seal it during a run if leaks develop.

The top looks smaller in this one than it did in the original pic. Is a TC going to fit on top?

Cheers,
Jonny

I just spent about a half hour beating and banging on the cap.. as gently as I could... It slips right in now. So I think I'll leave it on the outside. I'll add a few rivets as well.
The top is too small for the type of Ferrule I have... So I'll either have to modify the top or order a different ferrule. Here is a picture of the slip fit...

I set the ferrule on top so you can see what I mean. The whole thing looks like a bullet just need to figure out how I'm gonna attach the top TC......

[jonnys_spirit]

Oh cool I see - You're going to rivet and solder the cone to the boiler body? And add some ports?

Cheers,
j

[Wildcats]

Oh cool I see - You're going to rivet and solder the cone to the boiler body? And add some ports?

Cheers,
j

That's the plan. I think I'll add a full port as well.

[EricTheRed]

The TC Ferrule I have got is a weldless bulkhead fitting. That's why I was wondering about the flat spot on top the cone. Wanted to make sure it'll fit. Here is a picture.IMG_20231114_074104.jpg so if the top is 3+ inches. I should be good to go. Either way I'll make it work. I will still solder on the fitting so I don't have to mess with the gasket.

I've used several of those adaptors on SS pans and even my boiler - round surfaces - but with a bit of gentle nudging (beaten with a rubber mallet) - they sealed up just fine!

[Tōtōchtin]

With a condensers hanging off to the side it would seem with copper you would need to counter that with more strength.If that top flat spot is larger then 3" could you solder that ferrules to a short 3" pipe. Cut 4 flanges out of the bottom of the pipe bent to the angle of your cap. Then rivet the 4 flanges, solder those and the pipe to the cap. That would spread the stress I think. Suerte with your first run.
Tōtō

[Wildcats]

All good suggestions. I will be ordering the TC Ferrule for the top and fill. The top will be 2" and the fill will be 4". I may end up adding another TC Ferrule to the bottom side as well. As close to the bottom as possible. That way it can be used as a drain or heating element.
If I'd had this to do over again, I'd have got a bottom cap from the same place as I got the top from. This is my first attempt at making a copper boiler. But with a completely modular set up. I can use this 5gal boiler for small spirit runs. Or even use as a thumper. That's another reason to add a drain. Will get it finished as soon as the other parts come in.
I really enjoy working with copper. It's so easy to make the metal do what you want with a bit of heat and a hammer. I still plan on making the copper Onion as well. Cheer's

[shadylane]

I may end up adding another TC Ferrule to the bottom side as well. As close to the bottom as possible. That way it can be used as a drain or heating element.

I'd recommend a 1" -11 tpi copper nut.
That way when using fire, a plug can be screwed in the hole.
Also an element will screw directly into the threaded hole.

[Wildcats]

I may end up adding another TC Ferrule to the bottom side as well. As close to the bottom as possible. That way it can be used as a drain or heating element.

I'd recommend a 1" -11 tpi copper nut.
That way when using fire, a plug can be screwed in the hole.
Also an element will screw directly into the threaded hole.

Great advice Shady. I will maybe go that route.

[MooseMan]

All good suggestions. I will be ordering the TC Ferrule for the top and fill. The top will be 2" and the fill will be 4". I may end up adding another TC Ferrule to the bottom side as well. As close to the bottom as possible. That way it can be used as a drain or heating element.
If I'd had this to do over again, I'd have got a bottom cap from the same place as I got the top from. This is my first attempt at making a copper boiler. But with a completely modular set up. I can use this 5gal boiler for small spirit runs. Or even use as a thumper. That's another reason to add a drain. Will get it finished as soon as the other parts come in.
I really enjoy working with copper. It's so easy to make the metal do what you want with a bit of heat and a hammer. I still plan on making the copper Onion as well. Cheer's

This thing is gonna be the kiddy! Can't wait to see the finished article.

I would definitely go Tri clamp on the side as low as you can.
Maybe 2 if you're feeling frivolous. One for drain and one for element that can just have a blank cap on if you're using hotplate/gas.
Just be mindful of the extra space the tri clamps need when calculating how close to the bottom you go.

You mentioned that you'd get a bottom cap as well... If that's because you would like more rigidity where your planning to put holes, solder a plate (From your copper sheet offcuts) where the hole will be drilled, bingo!
You could even cut the plate to a funky shape and have it as your stillin signature, like batman!

[Wildcats]

All good suggestions. I will be ordering the TC Ferrule for the top and fill. The top will be 2" and the fill will be 4". I may end up adding another TC Ferrule to the bottom side as well. As close to the bottom as possible. That way it can be used as a drain or heating element.
If I'd had this to do over again, I'd have got a bottom cap from the same place as I got the top from. This is my first attempt at making a copper boiler. But with a completely modular set up. I can use this 5gal boiler for small spirit runs. Or even use as a thumper. That's another reason to add a drain. Will get it finished as soon as the other parts come in.
I really enjoy working with copper. It's so easy to make the metal do what you want with a bit of heat and a hammer. I still plan on making the copper Onion as well. Cheer's

This thing is gonna be the kiddy! Can't wait to see the finished article.

I would definitely go Tri clamp on the side as low as you can.
Maybe 2 if you're feeling frivolous. One for drain and one for element that can just have a blank cap on if you're using hotplate/gas.
Just be mindful of the extra space the tri clamps need when calculating how close to the bottom you go.

You mentioned that you'd get a bottom cap as well... If that's because you would like more rigidity where your planning to put holes, solder a plate (From your copper sheet offcuts) where the hole will be drilled, bingo!
You could even cut the plate to a funky shape and have it as your stillin signature, like batman!

I ment if I was starting over... I'd have gotten a bottom cap as well. But I plan on using a plate of steel as a defuser between the gas flame and the bottom of the boiler... Eventually going electric will solve that at some point in the future.
All good ideas. Thank you for stopping in Sir. We will see what I come up with when my parts come in.. Cheer's

[Dancing4dan]

If you choose to go down the domed lid path you might find this link helpful
viewtopic.php?t=78431

The link Bill posted is the best tutorial for working with copper on this site.

There is a lot of information contained in that post that relates to making copper stills.

[MooseMan]

If you choose to go down the domed lid path you might find this link helpful
viewtopic.php?t=78431

The link Bill posted is the best tutorial for working with copper on this site.

There is a lot of information contained in that post that relates to making copper stills.

Oh wow.

Now I REALLY want to make an anvil (I have been hoping to find a short section of rail track for years to make one) and play with copper sheet!

[Wildcats]

Since I started this copper boiler, I have been reading everything here on HD that I can find in working with copper sheet. There is a ton of post and threads on using copper sheet and the different technique of shaping and fabrication. And I have spent endless hours watching videos on YouTube and different companies that make all things from copper have excellent videos on there websites.
I enjoy working with copper so much, as the possibilities are just about endless of the things that you can create. I will be ordering a 3'x8' sheet to have on hand so I can make different things for mashing and distilling. As well as other projects... Ships, hotrods, ......
MooseMan if you can get some copper sheet to have on hand.... I'm sure you'll get as much use and reward from working with copper as I do. I look forward to seeing what and how you do. Cheer's

[Dancing4dan]

If you choose to go down the domed lid path you might find this link helpful
viewtopic.php?t=78431

The link Bill posted is the best tutorial for working with copper on this site.

There is a lot of information contained in that post that relates to making copper stills.

Oh wow.

Now I REALLY want to make an anvil (I have been hoping to find a short section of rail track for years to make one) and play with copper sheet!

Do some searches for “metal shaping”. Another great hobby / skill to develop.

Building bikes, hot rods and off road vehicles is where I learned metal shaping. I’m not nearly as talented as the guy who made those videos Bill posted. His stuff is well worth watching.

[Wildcats]

If you choose to go down the domed lid path you might find this link helpful
viewtopic.php?t=78431

The link Bill posted is the best tutorial for working with copper on this site.

There is a lot of information contained in that post that relates to making copper stills.

Oh wow.

Now I REALLY want to make an anvil (I have been hoping to find a short section of rail track for years to make one) and play with copper sheet!

Do some searches for “metal shaping”. Another great hobby / skill to develop.

Building bikes, hot rods and off road vehicles is where I learned metal shaping. I’m not nearly as talented as the guy who made those videos Bill posted. His stuff is well worth watching.

Thanks man. Definitely good stuff. Spent two hours last night searching metal shaping. My parts will be here Saturday. So plan to get this boiler done this weekend.

[Wildcats]

I got my parts. So I drilled out the top of the cone. And filed down the hole to fit the 2" TC Ferrule. This was my very first attempt to solder stainless steel to copper.

I used Stay Clean liquid flux and Stay Brite 8 solder.

this is the inside

went great now for the 4" TC Ferrule. Cheer's

[MooseMan]

Nice job man.

That went a whole lot better than my first attempt at stainless soldering when I started my first boiler!

[shadylane]

This was my very first attempt to solder stainless steel to copper.

Looks better than I can do.
As to using an anvil for bashing copper, that's the wrong tool for the job.
All you need is a vice to hold whatever piece of metal or wood that's the right shape and size.
And a small pecking hammer.

[harold01]

This was my very first attempt to solder stainless steel to copper.
Well done, nothing ventured nothing gained
going to be a good looking unit