Home Distiller

OD, I was thinking of replicating your design, do you think I could get away with using a 3" x 24" column? Any thoughts on the optimum spacing of the plates for that size?

Yes I was going to build in 3" or 4". but I got a good deal on some 4". The plates should be between 4" and 6" apart, the holes should take up 30% of the surface area, and the holes are 1/8" diameter. Dont forget to allow for the dephlagmater when you calculate the length of your column, this is an essential part for it to work , you could cut down the number of plates to 3 or 4, I went a bit overboard wth 5. Lets see some pictures when you build.


OD

Thanks OD, might be a while as I hunt down all the necessary parts. I priced some of pieces new... ouch. The dephlagmater looks like it was a PITA to build, I'm gonna take my time an get it right. I was hoping to one day have a go at your Coffey still design, but it seemed a bit to ambitious. This one I should be able to pull off, especially if I leave off the sight glasses. It's a shame because those give it a real professional look along with being extremely functional. I believe someone some called it a "baby holstein", that's the first thing I thought of.

Just thought of another question, do you think it would work to mount the dephlagmater after the second 3" x 2" reducer? I have some 2" and 1.5" copper lying around that I'd like to make use of. That would allow me to make the most use of the 3" x 24" tubing.

To work properly the dephlagmater needs to be part of the main column, you would be better cutting the plate number down to 3 or 4 to work within the length you have got.
BTW there is a description of how to make those cheaply in the thread on sight glasses.http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... 7#p6833967

OD

Just fitted the cooling control valve for the dephlagmater.
OD

Great stuff, once again beautifully executed. What are you using for a condensor? I'm was planning to run the cooling lines from the condensor(liebig) to the dephlagmator, but it appears that it would be best to control the two separately.

Hi Hutch,

On my rig I have put together a series of by-passes that will allow for any number of cobinations for cooling. I can recycle product coolant to the dogdish condenser or run the coolant directly to each apparatus.

Also set up separate coolant discharges to more adaquately control flow rate for each condenser.

Did mine with clear tubing to help me see the water flow better. Also used plastic ball valves and barbs so assembly, knock down and reconfiguration is quite easy.

Once I dial in my prefered perameters for running my new thump tower, I may choose to install some fixed copper valves like OD did cuz it looks so friggin sweet.

I don't about you but that damn OD just keeps raising the bar to quikly for me. Every time he comes up with a new design that I want to try he up and canges it again and I just can't work that fast. Dammit Olddog go on holliday or somthing. Why don't you come across the pond and check out Disney I here it's nice this time of year. Maybe Larry and I will come and harass you.

pumpman wrote: Dammit Olddog go on holliday or somthing

I aint finished yet, I plan to build a Graham condenser to be a permanent part of the rig, with a control manifold for cooling both the Graham condenser and the dephlagmater, It might take some time as I have to source some more copper cheap, I will have to make do with my existing leibig for now though as funds are getting a bit short. Also I have to see the surgeon/specialist about my dodgy knee on thursday, so I could be out of action for a while which will give the rest of you time to catch up.

Good luck with that knee I have one that pops all the time when I walk so I may be there in the future myself. Anyway would you make a run with that new rig before you disappear I'm sure we all want to know how it does?

Thanks Olddogg your a gentleman

Hey Od I think I have about got all my fittings and copper sorted out. I hope to start building this beast maybe next weekend.
Thanks for all the pics. It really helps out.
Kentucky Shinner.

One more question. I have enough unions to make 8 sight glasses, I thought about mounting them on both sides of the colum for light so I could see inside better and if need be I could use a flashlight on the backside. Do you see any problems with doing this?

Kentucky shinner wrote:I have enough unions to make 8 sight glasses, I thought about mounting them on both sides of the colum for light so I could see inside better and if need be I could use a flashlight on the backside.

Okay,,, now your just showing off

Great Idea. If you got it,,,,flaunt it.

It's only some extra work.

If OD signs off on the extra bits........;)You will be obligated to supply a video of the action
Please..............I said please.

Here is what I am thinking on the way of fittings needed for the flute design with the delphlag. not including the graham condenser. point out mistakes . I hope this is close because i have the fittings on the way.. Nothing is to scale just a quick mock up

Hi KS, you need to invert the lower reducer in the deflag, the purple one.

MM.

if I invert that one wont it restrict my vapor flow? I looks like to me you want to funnel your vapor into the 2". That is why I am posting this so i can be corrected. I am sure more opinions will be comming.
Thanks

You can keep it the way you have it as long as you put a drip ring on the bottom reducer to direct the condensed vapor to the centre of the column, by inverting the bottom reducer the condensed vapor will automatically be directed to the centre.


OD

Kentucky shinner wrote:if I invert that one wont it restrict my vapor flow? I looks like to me you want to funnel your vapor into the 2".
Thanks

considering its the inlet to the deflag, which your using to give reflux, which is going to reduce vapour volume at your condensor anyway I dont think having a less efficient entry to the deflag is going to hurt anything, it might even be a benefit by giving some turbulance from the sharp edge entry into the 2" section.

MM.

Ok inverting it is then.

Kentucky shinner wrote:Here is what I am thinking on the way of fittings needed for the flute design with the delphlag. not including the graham condenser. point out mistakes . I hope this is close because i have the fittings on the way.. Nothing is to scale just a quick mock up

KS - you going with 3" for the body of the flute? I got some three inch. Would like to get my hands on 4" but that could be a wait.

WW I got lucky and found some 4". I was going to do a 3" but spooky had some 4" and needed some 3" for his graham condenser so we made a trade. Olddog thought the 3" would be fine though. Hey man go for it. use what you have.

...must take a lotta heat to run one o' these....
'course the big question is, how fast can you run a 5 gallon wash?
NChooch

I run a 12 gallon wash in about 4.5 - 5 hours.

What about heat ? Do yall hafta run 'em wide open on propane? ...or can you bring it up to a boil and then back it off to a simmer?
NChooch

Mines a bit different, but when I'm fully equalized I can collect pretty briskly with less than 1000 watts.

I heat up kind of slow. I run my burner about half maybe a little more. When my wash my temp come up in the column then i actually turn it up a little to get more reflux.
OD may do it different.

Do you think there would be any gain in performance by having the column to boiler connection in 4" ?

I'm thinking of getting the 2" connection cut out and a 4" ferule welded to the top of one of my kegs.

Cheers.

A 4" connection would be the ideal way for a flute, but it makes the keg only useable for one column, if you wanted to use your Bok, you would need two kegs.


OD

Excellent! that is how my connection will be done then

I think I have everything I need now except the 4" tri clamps that I've got coming, I'll do a mock up tomorrow for everyone's critique.

Cheers.