Home Distiller

I think I have a good idea about how to cut out the top of my one keg and then how to set-up the cork seal and bolts, but being new at this and all, I just wanna triple check before I start cutting my keg.

1st step is to make a template by tracing the bowl. Make a smaller circle inside the trace by 1/4" to compensate for the bowl lip. Using the inner circle is what then will be transfered to the top of the keg and I'll use as guild line while cutting with my jig saw (using metal blades).

2nd step is to mount bolts. If I don't drum up enough $$$ to have someone weld these on, I'll have to drill holes and mount the bolts through the keg. The longest stainless bolts that Home Depot sells have threads the entire lenght of the bolt are only 2" long. Is this long enough?
Figuring a sandwich of washer (inside keg), washer (outside keg), nut to hold the bolt in place, then fender washer to hold down the bowl, and finally a large wing nut on top.

Spacing the bolts. Many have suggested using 8 bolts instead of only four. To be on that safe side, this is what I intend to do. But how far from the inner edge of the hole I've cut should these be placed 1/2", 3/4"? 1"?

Last step, attaching the cork seal to the bowl. Was it ever determined wiether using RTV sealant was okay or not?. I was thinking of doing a double thickness of cork, one glued to the keg and another glued to the bowl rim. Only using a thin, nearly invisble layer. (I've seen buddies go over board with this stuff on thier car engines...I'm not that sloppy).

Sidebar.... I'ld like to set my lil 1/4 barrel up as an electric pot still. That way I can work with it during the winter months. Could I get buy with a single 120v say 1800-2000watt heating element?

tia,

Jaxx

Ok here's what I did:


I traced out the bowl on some gasket material like you said, made another circle about 3/8 " or so smaller and cut it out also this diameter on the top of keg and cut it out with a jig saw. Then drilled out 5 evenly spaced holes and put in 1/4" brass nutserts (need nutsert kit to do this) next threaded in 1/4" stainless bolts probably only 3/4" in length, so what you see from top of keg is 5 threaded studs sticking up.


Next bend some 1/4" fender washers like the pic shows.


Then use wing nuts to tighten down the bowl.

To add: I used contact cement very sparingly to glue the gasket to the top of the beer keg.

And although many here will disagree with me on this one, this is how I heat the keg, Hank Hill would be proud of me. Good old propane, on a homemade stove. Easy to control. I see so many post here of guys futsin' around with hot water tank elements and such. Open flame is perfectly safe as long as your not sloppy. Notice how far the collection bottle is away from the stove.

Looks really good, Uncle. Interesting use of an old wheel!

Out of curiosity, how do nutserts fix into the holes?

thats a nice setup and a very creative idea using an old rim to construct a propane burner!

linw wrote:Looks really good, Uncle. Interesting use of an old wheel!

Out of curiosity, how do nutserts fix into the holes?

Nutserts are a treaded hole. They are squeezed and expanded much like putting in a pop rivet. A hole is drilled to a specified size, then the nutsert is put in the tool, inserted into the hole and then squeezed to expand against the sides of the hole you drilled. Another name for them is Swedge Nuts depending on who manufactured the kit.

Great set-up uncle! I do wish you lived closer, I'd have you do some of my welding!!! Just for the record though, I have two kegs. The smaller 7.7 gallon "quarter barrel" and the larger 15.5 "half barrel". The smaller one I wish to go electric on. I already have a turkey roaster. I'm a camper type person, so this is dual usage anyways.

Those nutserts, where did you find them? While Home Depot sells lotsa goodies, I don't recall ever seeing anything like that there. Would an automovtive parts store like Murry's or Pepboys have them?

Jaxx

I think from Acklands which is an industrial supply company. Do a quick google search and see if you can find a supplier in your area, I would think most autoparts places would be able to get them. Here is one link I found. http://www.aboveboardelectronics.com/Av ... utsert.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

That's interesting, thanks. But what stops the threaded hole from becoming distorted when squeezed up?

The way it fits on the installation tool, it threads on, only the outer part expands. If the checkout that link I left it show some pics I think.

Ah, I think I can see their dastardly plan! Thanks for the info. They sound really useful.

rather than start a new thread I thought i'd post here

I want to attach a round stainless steel flange to a keg that I will cut from a thick bottomed cooking pan and silver solder a ferrule to it . I will cut a gasket from a PTFE sheet to go underneath

so I'm thinking I could use these rivnuts/nutserts that Uncle Remus used in the second post to do so and then just use 316 grade stainless bolts . I can see rivnuts for sale on ebay that are called "A4 Marine Grade 316 Metric Stainless Large Head Flange Rivnut Rivet Insert Nuts"

I just wonder seeing as the fittings crush up to stay in place , would that make them rust inside the keg?

If they are 316 stainless then they shouldn't rust. Unless there are non-stainless bits in them.

Stainless is not a coating (normally).