Milehigh 2" keg connector advice

[davidwh]

hello all,

Bought 2x 2" connection kits.

http://www.milehidistilling.com/Stainle ... /16608.htm

Oddly the SS adapter seems to only screw in about 3 - 4 threads into copper female. There's no thread damage. Other than the obvious (cleaning threads lubricating) any advice on how best to screw these beasts together?...hoping there some marvellous metalwork trick I'm not aware off.

cheers
a thirsty dave

[Bushman]

I have the same set up and had no problems screwing it in. You checked all the threads and made sure you were not cross-threaded? If you can't get it further in I would give mile hi a call and ask there thoughts!

[Prairiepiss]

It's 2" tapered pipe thread isn't it? Tapered pipe thread is designed to seal with the threads. And they are tapered. The male end will have a small diameter at the end and taper bigger. The female is opposite big Id on the end and taper smaller going in. So it won't screw together like a regular nut and bolt. It will only screw together so far before it tightens on it self. Don't forget a little PTFE tape to seal the threads good.

[myles]

Thats right. I have 2 of these and was going to use them on interchangeable rigs but that is a non starter. The stainless thread bites into the copper one so I dont recomend you try to take them on and off.

Use PTFE thread tape and tighten up well. Then treat as a semi-permanent fit to the copper adaptor. Use these to attach to the keg and build your own easy flanges where you want joints that will be taken appart on a regular basis.

[Prairiepiss]

Or see if you can return them and just make an easy flange on your column. Lot lot cheaper.

[Suburban Guy]

It's 2" tapered pipe thread isn't it? Tapered pipe thread is designed to seal with the threads. And they are tapered. The male end will have a small diameter at the end and taper bigger. The female is opposite big Id on the end and taper smaller going in. So it won't screw together like a regular nut and bolt. It will only screw together so far before it tightens on it self. Don't forget a little PTFE tape to seal the threads good.

Prairiepiss is correct. I have the same flange and it will only screw on so far due to the taper. Just snug it up and leak check before you run the real flammable stuff through it. In the off chance that they got the threading screwed up, post a up close pic of it so everyone can see how far you were able to go.
SG

[yankeeclear]

Thats right. I have 2 of these and was going to use them on interchangeable rigs but that is a non starter. The stainless thread bites into the copper one so I dont recomend you try to take them on and off.

Use PTFE thread tape and tighten up well. Then treat as a semi-permanent fit to the copper adaptor. Use these to attach to the keg and build your own easy flanges where you want joints that will be taken appart on a regular basis.

I have had similar experience with all copper male/female threaded couplings for a Liebig condenser so slightly different scenario. After just a couple of runs on the pot head I could no longer uncouple the threads without a vice and wrench. The threads were not stripped or cross-threaded, just hand tightened without PTFE tape. I removed the threaded fittings, built a second condenser for the VM and soldered them on. I use a short (10") slip-fit 2" column stem to which I can drop on the reflux head or pot still head without threaded connectors.

I would recommend Myles advise if you are going to keep the set or PPs advise if it is economical to return them and use an alternate means of attaching the column (or modular stem) to the boiler.

[myles]

I am not saying there is anything wrong with these, just that once fitted to the copper adaptor you should leave it fitted. If you don't want to build your own flanges, buy copper flanges, or go down the route of soldering stainless flanges to copper tube then these are a reasonable (although expensive) alternative.

Soldering stainless flanges to copper tube does have issues due to the different tube sizes. The copper flanges that are a capillary solder fit are a nice idea but expensive also.

It is worth persisting with the "beefed up easy flange" style or other varients, as there are now a few different ideas out there.

[Usge]

The nice thing about using these commercial flanges is that it has a groove in it for the standard gaskets that are available in various compositions. They work great, and seal great..centered everytime. I've got 3 of them. And I've taken them on-off several times..and they seem none-the-worse for wear. Just use plenty of teflon tape and tighten into "that". This protects the threads as well. Each time I've taken one off and replaced it, I rewind it with the tape.

The main problem with the threaded ones is the expense. They are pretty expensive, and they are heavy. I'd probably opt for the stainless skirted ferrules and deal with soldering them in, but they appear to have sizing issues that require a significant amount of coaxing *ie. freezing them, then hammer them in with a block of wood and large hammer, etc..

[Mud Mechanik]

hello all,

Bought 2x 2" connection kits.

http://www.milehidistilling.com/Stainle ... /16608.htm

Oddly the SS adapter seems to only screw in about 3 - 4 threads into copper female. There's no thread damage. Other than the obvious (cleaning threads lubricating) any advice on how best to screw these beasts together?...hoping there some marvellous metalwork trick I'm not aware off.

cheers
a thirsty dave

I had the exact same issue, I put the stainless fitting in the freezer for about an hour then straight from there to the vise, it went much easier that way.