Pot Still, copper or stainless head

[okie]

I'm looking to upgrade, well actually get a new still, and I like the units brewhaus sells but I wanted the pot still head to be copper and have a thumper. I see hillbilly stills sells a copper pot still head with a 2" tri clamp and it has a union for the Leibig fitting that I think a thumper could be added when ever I want one.

Now money comes to play. If I get the 8 gallon premium kettle from brewhaus and the copper pot still head from hillbilly I'm over what the stainless complete unit is from brewhaus. My question is do you think having a copper still head is worth the extra? If I get the all stainless one I'd have to cut the pipe before the Leibig to add a thumper. Since I don't weld, this might be asking for trouble for me.

Another question is, the hillbilly unit is only 12" tall and the brewhaus is 18" tall. What does the height of the column do for a pot still? I'm reading the higher the unit the higher quality the distillate. Is that right?

Lots to consider and I need experienced advice. My goal is to make scotch and sometimes rum.

[Usge]

Having copper in the vapor path (and some say the pot also) can be beneficial. Having on the condensor side...not really any benefit I'm aware of. Stainless will last longer under these conditions. You can always use "copper mesh" to put some copper in the vapor path or even bits of copper tubing in the boiler for "boiling chips".

The "theory" is that taller columns give the vapor more time to cool/slow...causing better separation. In a reflux column..the height is somewhat critical..given you need space/area for the various fractions to stackup and stabilize before drawing them off. But, on a potstill...in practical use...you'll find the added height doesn't make much difference. It might add a point or two to your abv. That's about it. Most people adjust column height for logistical/practical reasons...(ie., to get their liebig off the floor). The reverse side of this is...shorter columns are more direct..with less time to separate...and tend to leave heavier flavors/impurities in the distillate because it has little/no time to separate. There "are" people here who have mentioned they noticed the difference. Personally, between running one 8" and 18"...I didn't see "any" discernible difference. That's just my experience.

As far as between the standard copper postill head from hillbilly with the liebig vs the brewhaus stainless one....I would say I prefer the hillbilly style as it's typcial/common design for those built here from common copper parts. Note the difference in the liebig length. The Hillbilly has a proper sized liebig...and it's attached with a union you can take on and off..not welded on. It also has an angle/fitting such that it can be rotated up/down as needed. If you were to build one out of common parts..this is more the design I would use. If you could find a used stainless keg (scrap yard)....I'd just slap something like this on top of it. The kegs have a 2" flat errule built in to the top. You just have to remove the sanke valve out of them. That's it. I would also suggest..if you look at that still head zoomed in hard enough...you'd see that you could build this yourself out of common copper parts. Add it up. The trick is finding the 2" DWV pipe at a decent price without having to buy a 10' stick of it. Again..check scrap yard. The other sticking point would be how to attach the 2" ferrule on the bottom of the copper tube. Lots of info here on that...as well as alternatives (EZ flange). The beer keg is 15.5 gals..which means you can run 10 gal still charges. Longer runs...give smoother transitions through cuts. But, you could always start with the 8 gal brewhaus pot...and then reporpose it later as a thumper when you get a keg. That's what I did. You have lots of options.

The brewhaus potstill head...has a tiny/restricted lynearm...which reduces any advantage a larger/longer column/tube might have volume wise. It also has a small liebig condensor...that you could easily overwhelm with enough heat. And it's all welded/stainless. If you decide something needs to be changed or added ...like your thumper...it's a much bigger problem (unless you know how to tig weld) than just cutting some tube and soldering up a join. It also uses buna rubber stopper in the top which you'll probably want to change and the therm is pointless on a potstill. However, you could use copper mesh packing in the tube..to give you some copper in the vapor path.

I like the stainless pots though!! They are great!! I have lots of thoughts about thumpers....you can read here my latest thoughts using one of these pots: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopi ... &start=168

[okie]

Thank you again. I am leaning towards the premium pot at Brewhaus and if I go ahead and get the complete unit I was thinking some copper pipe pieces in the pot during the run and you confirmed that thought. I appreciate your experience and knowledge and your help.

[Prairiepiss]

The Brewhaus still takeoff is really small to feed a thumper. And if your gona take the time to modifies the Brewhaus still. You mite as well build your own from copper if thats what you want.

A copper scrubber or two in a stainless pot still riser is plenty.

[anderson0196]

A quick thought about buying vs building....

I split the difference and purchased a flange that allowed me to connect to a keg and built my pot still head and Liebig.

Even with being able to buy 2" type m from a plumbing supply store for 8.50 a foot (went with 30") I have still invested as much as it would have cost me to buy the 2" head from HS.

If you have flux, solder, Emory paper and a torch you will save a bit. Do a DIY easy flange and the everlasting Teflon gasket you'll save even more.

In the end, I'm happy with my choice. I have learned a lot during the build and now have some tools I didn't before.


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