I want to preface this post with the caveat that I do not have a cool stream or spring from which to draw cooling water, and refuse to waste water by hooking up a hose for four or more hours and letting that go down the drain. With that in mind I am looking for the perfect cooling system.
In that never ending quest, I am having an ongoing discussion with several shinners about the best way to cool water exiting the column and condenser. The system I use is outlined here:
http://tvbeer.com/cool1.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
As you can see, the water exits via a wort chiller (which most of the time it has a fan blowing on it) and reenters the pool. This reduces the heat considerably however there is still the need to toss in ice bottles at various times.
My question is this, has anyone on this forum developed a system which reduces the exit temp to the point that it would reenter the pool at or below the original temp? A couple of suggestions I have from other shinners are to use a transmission cooler along the lines of a Hayden 1405, or use an old drinking fountain water cooler such as an Oasis PA8C. I guess before I invest in either of these, I would like to hear from folks who have used them either successfully or unsuccessfully, and any other ideas you may have.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Cheers!
Cooling System
Moderator: Site Moderator
One thing that does work (I use it), is to build a small "A-frame" out of 1x2's or angle iron. Then drape a think fuzzy terry cloth bath towel over this A-frame. Then put that into your cooling tank. NOTE that legs of the A-frame should be long enough to keep the towel out of the water. Then your cooling return line should be placed so that it dumps hot water back onto the top of the towel (top of the A-frame). For mine, I made a "manifold", but cutting 4 small holes in the hose, and then I tie the hose down along the top edge of the A-frame, thus soak the whole length of the towel, instead of just a single soak point. Now when the unit is running, I put a box fan at the end of the a-frame, turn it on, and it keeps the water very cool.
I run a 15 gallon keg, and when stripping, run very hot, and a 15 gallon cheap "storage" tub is more than enough cooling water. I might have to add a little water over the run, but not much.
Wish I had a digital camera to show some pix. The contraption is not perty, but it does work fine, and I think it could help others.
NOTE this will use "some" water, but very little. Also, this is only workable in an outside (or well vented) environment. If you try this in your basement, and your sheetrock molds and falls off the walls, dont blame me
H.
I run a 15 gallon keg, and when stripping, run very hot, and a 15 gallon cheap "storage" tub is more than enough cooling water. I might have to add a little water over the run, but not much.
Wish I had a digital camera to show some pix. The contraption is not perty, but it does work fine, and I think it could help others.
NOTE this will use "some" water, but very little. Also, this is only workable in an outside (or well vented) environment. If you try this in your basement, and your sheetrock molds and falls off the walls, dont blame me
H.
thats like whats called a swamp cooler works husker .only they use straw or fiber material now. will cool down close to air temp if enough draft is drawn across them. http://www.air-n-water.com/faq_swamp.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I use a pot still.Sometimes with a thumper
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- Distiller
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I have a plastic 55 gallon drum with the top cut off. I have a cheap circulating pump in it that does maybe 300 gallons an hour. I too make a hard fast stripping run with a 15 gallon keg still. It has sufficient capacity for a run a day with no problems.
I have used that terry cloth method in a solar still. The solar still is a cheap and maintenance free way to strip and it is free energy.
I can fill it and go to work. When I get home I have stripped stuff on a 3Mx1M glass front one. I had to take it down though because it was drawing too much attention. I got the idea from:
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_lib ... ual15.html
I have used that terry cloth method in a solar still. The solar still is a cheap and maintenance free way to strip and it is free energy.
I can fill it and go to work. When I get home I have stripped stuff on a 3Mx1M glass front one. I had to take it down though because it was drawing too much attention. I got the idea from:
http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_lib ... ual15.html
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- Bootlegger
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- Joined: Tue Feb 13, 2007 7:04 am
husker's idea
I took Huskers idea a step out. I use a 3/4 pvc pipe that is 2' long, end cap, hose barb holes drilled along a line 1/2" apart. Hang from ceiling, attach hose from condensor,. I have my towel hanging over an ice chest with a fan on it, ran my pot still for nine hours today, added ice for somethin to do, it stayed cool. Try it, cost about $5 US. Thanks Husker . I'll try to get some pics up
Re: Cooling System
I just tested my new still by distilling 2.5 gallons of water. That took 7 hours. For cooling I used a Rubbermaid plastic container with about 30 gallons of water in it and a Little Giant water pump that pumps about 4 gallons per minute.
I monitored the temp of the water and at 90 degrees I ran the return line out on the yard till the container was about empty, then replaced the water with 70° water from the fawcett. Had to do that 3 times over the course of the 7 hours. That ws only about 90 gallons of water. Cheap!
I monitored the temp of the water and at 90 degrees I ran the return line out on the yard till the container was about empty, then replaced the water with 70° water from the fawcett. Had to do that 3 times over the course of the 7 hours. That ws only about 90 gallons of water. Cheap!