Do I need a temp control for my electric element on a pot

[Deanboy]

I have been reading so much before I build my still. Do I need to control the temp of my electric element inserted in the ss keg or just switch her on and keep collecting spirit until the the 40percent mark. Doing cuts as I go of course. I am looking at a 2000 wt element off ebay for my pot still.

[WhiteDevil504]

You do need a controller, but not a temp regulated one. You want to control the power to the element, some people use router speed controllers for an off the shelf solution. Alternatively if you search around you'll find various solid state controller builds done with parts from eBay. If you search for "phase angle" it should get you to them.

[Da Yooper]

A voltage controller is what you are looking for not a temp controller. Research voltage controller, cheap and easy build.

[Deanboy]

Thanks guys, obviously you need to turn the heat down a bit on the element so it's not full belt boiling, if providing less power to the element and drawing the distillation process out longer it will have less water in the vapour correct?

[WhiteDevil504]

Less water in the vapors part of it, you'll also be able to better ease into your hearts and not push tails up early. Arguably most importantly you'll be able to titrate the heat so you are not over powering your cooling and firing alcohol vapor into your distilling room.....

[Deanboy]

Thanks white devil I've gone cross eyed looking for that answer. I wanna get my build right the first time.

[WhiteDevil504]

Here is the main controller thread: http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3342
Lots of good info, I ended up just getting a router speed controller for now as my boiler is only 8 gallons. I am working on converting a keg which will use the scr. Good luck with your build, but it seems like a build is never final, always something to tweak/tinker with.

[NZChris]

I've gone to two 1500w elements. That gives me the choices of 3000w, 1500w and 750w. That is ample choice for my simple pot still. 3000w to get up to temperature, then 750w or 1500w for stripping and spirit runs through a 1/2" Liebig.

[Bob Loblaw]

I think the answer to whether or not you need a controller depends on size of boiler, type of still, and how much voltage you're actually getting through the circuit. If you are running that element on a 15A circuit using it in 15g boiler on a pot still, you need all the wattage you can get and you'll likely never run it at anything but 100% If it's a 5gal boiler with a boka - you probably do.

Good thing is that controller kits are pretty cheap and easy to build. IMHO, I would lLook for one with an SSR - not a rheostat/router speed controller.

[Bob Loblaw]

if providing less power to the element and drawing the distillation process out longer it will have less water in the vapour correct?

That is not correct. You can have less vapor speed, but the water content is the same. Water boils at 212, alcohol boils at 173, and the mash boils at a specific temperature based on the % of alcohol. You can't change the physical properties of that. What you can change is the vapor speed/takeoff rate.

[Hound Dog]

if providing less power to the element and drawing the distillation process out longer it will have less water in the vapour correct?

That is not correct. You can have less vapor speed, but the water content is the same. Water boils at 212, alcohol boils at 173, and the mash boils at a specific temperature based on the % of alcohol. You can't change the physical properties of that. What you can change is the vapor speed/takeoff rate.

Bob gets it! Do you follow what he's saying Dean?

[Jimbo]

if providing less power to the element and drawing the distillation process out longer it will have less water in the vapour correct?

That is not correct. You can have less vapor speed, but the water content is the same. Water boils at 212, alcohol boils at 173, and the mash boils at a specific temperature based on the % of alcohol. You can't change the physical properties of that. What you can change is the vapor speed/takeoff rate.

What's very important that you didnt mention is smearing. If you boil vigorously, the violent molecular activity will smear the fractions and your vapor will carry over more heads later and tails earlier. This is why is it common knowledge to run spirit runs slower, even half speed, as stripper runs.

[firewater69]

I have a 20 gallon boiler,but am limited to 120 volts where i live now. i have a 2k element and control power with a variac. i run full power to warm up, but only run 75-80 volts during a run on my lm if thats any help to you.

[S-Cackalacky]

I run a 5 gallon pot still heated with a 240V 5500W element running on 120V service. So, at full power it runs at 1375W (1/4 the rated power). I run a 4 to 4.5 gallon charge. I just ran a series of 6 stripping runs with the element connected directly to the 120V service. The output stream was to my likin'. I plan to try the same thing with the spirit runs of the low wines I collected. It may run a bit different with the higher ABV charge, but I'll try it and see what happens. I plan to have my controller standing by in case I don't get the output stream I like. I'll also be using a thumper with the spirit runs which could also affect the flow rate a bit as well.

Anyway, running without a controller may depend a lot on the rig, the charge, the element, the voltage and probably some other things. It seems to be working for me with what I have, but just a happy coincidence.

[BentJar]

I have been running my 15.5 gal keg still with 110 volt to a camco 240v 5500 watt element. It runs great and just like it was running on the burner but heat up is slow. I been using the burner set on low heat to speed up the process and once I get a drip or two, off goes the burner. runs perfect with no controller.
Working on the 240 leg and controller set up now. Soon maybe....

Its gonna be nice not to lug them heavy ass propane tanks around not the mention 38.00 to fill 2 of them up every couple of weeks. Price keeps going up on propane, not down.

So far my electric conversion has cost around 240.00 and most of that was for wire and a breaker panel for the shed.
I say in one weeks time, it should be up and running