Putting older posts here. Going to try to keep the novice forum pruned about 90 days work. The 'good' old stuff is going to be put into appropriate forums.
Ok so help guide me through a run...I am planning to build this pot still and add about a 2"x16" packed column below the copper line that leads to the coil.
I am going to make a batch of uncle Jesse's sour mash...Add it to the pot and distill it...
Couple questions..
1--What temp do I need to keep the pot at?
2--After the mash is added and begins to distill what % if any do I need to throw away from what first comes out..
3--After collecting the alcohol from the first run do I need to throw out any % on the second and third runs?
4--When redistilling on the second and third runs should I dilute the alcohol with say 50% water and redistill?
Sorry to ask so many newbie questions but I am here to learn..Ty
1. Sorry, can't help. I learned without a therm in my pot still. I think it'd get in the way of learning taste and smell properly.
There's some people here who do cuts by percentage, and some who do cuts by degrees, i don't think either is the best way. Save y'self $20 and leave it out.
2. Idiscard (depending on the wash) about 100ml to 20 litres or so. I do it on every run, and probably a little larger on spirit runs.
3. Yes, i believe you do.
4. Some people do, and they have good reasons for doing so. I don't as my still is firstly very safe, with little chance of vapour leaks and secondly i'm a lazy bastard and the cuts are easier at the higher proofs.
1) A pot still will set its own temperature based on the % in the wash. The only real reason to have one is to know when to stop. After about 98*C, it becomes a pointless activity to try to get any more out on a strip run. Your first runs should just have everything collected in a series of small jars (about 500ml on stuff below 20L) and then smell each one and then decide which ones are good enough to keep.
2) No matter what, I always throw out the first 100ml per 20L, regardless of whether it's the 1st run or the 32nd. It's probably overkill, but it usually tastes bad anyway. Stuff makes real good firestarter.
4) Like Punkin said, cuts are more evident at higher %. I just put about an inch (yes, I work in US and metric ) of water in the bottom of the boiler for good measure.
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance... baffle them with bullshit."
"Don't steal. The government hates competition."
"Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see"
punkin wrote:
4. Some people do, and they have good reasons for doing so. I don't as my still is firstly very safe, with little chance of vapour leaks and secondly i'm a lazy bastard and the cuts are easier at the higher proofs. at LeastITriedPunkin
I put a thermometer on my pot still because I thought it was essential. Now I totally disregard the bloody thing and use nose and taste to do my cuts. I believe that shining is an art rather than a science and would NEVER rely on mechanical aids to make cuts, but that's just me. Many folk seem to rely entirely on them. I guess it's really up to you.
In the past I've always diluted before any second run, but after reading some of the posts here I will probably consider diluting a lot less in future.
blanik
Simple potstiller. Slow, single run.
(50 litre, propane heated pot still. Coil in bucket condenser - No thermometer, No carbon) The Reading Lounge AND the Rules We Live By should be compulsory reading
I always do final cuts by taste/smell. But, I also find vapor path temp readings as well as hydrometers handy tools that can provide a lot of feedback.
BW Redneck wrote:1) A pot still will set its own temperature based on the % in the wash. The only real reason to have one is to know when to stop. After about 98*C, it becomes a pointless activity to try to get any more out on a strip run.
I use my spirit hydrometer in the parrot beak for this. Also handy for info of upcoming cuts, it tells when it's time to start atasting and asmelling.
I assume you use the thermometer for that info?
BW Redneck wrote:1) A pot still will set its own temperature based on the % in the wash. The only real reason to have one is to know when to stop. After about 98*C, it becomes a pointless activity to try to get any more out on a strip run.
I use my spirit hydrometer in the parrot beak for this. Also handy for info of upcoming cuts, it tells when it's time to start atasting and asmelling.
I assume you use the thermometer for that info?
Yes, I try using the vapor temp to approximate the proof of the distillate. I know it's not as reliable of a method as specific gravity, and I really need to get a set of 2 hydrometers, but I ain't got around to it. I don't particularly like the idea of sending out a credit card number online, so I get my brother to do it on his own card and I pay him back with hard cash.
"If you can't dazzle them with brilliance... baffle them with bullshit."
"Don't steal. The government hates competition."
"Believe none of what you hear, and only half of what you see"
I found that the alcometer and parrot beak set-up to be rather tedious to use as each time you take a reading you also must test temperature and read the corrected chart value to obtain the correct reading.
Using the thermometer, I just check the value against the vapour chart on the home site and have an instant readout of the alcohol strength.
Simple, even for me to use.
I have checked my output using both methods and find the results to be close enough for my purposes.
But - each to their own.
2"x38" Bok mini and
Pot still with Leibig on 45 litre boiler
Not to argue with ya tracker, but seeing as i'm not using the alchometer to make cuts, only to see where the runs at, and as an indication that the tail cut is coming up, it don't matter to me if i temp correct or not.
Like your temp gauge, i'm looking for the change...I'm watching to see the a/vol start dropping quicker.
Same race different horse....only i don't need charts.
Let me just say...this shit is hard enough..without trying to make it harder on yourself. Use everything you can to help you understand what's going on with the process, etc., Later...you can pare away what you don't need. I would also add, that's recognizing that everybodies still is different too—and that some people are at the level they don't need any of this (and or...never did)
I agree with punkin Watch four changes higher temps lour proof means
tales coming up take off in smaller jars let set over night smell taste
head-tales do not come off at exact temp or prof This is like cooking
a good cook goes by taste sound and smell do same Temp and proof
is a reference every still is different And your tast is different
If you've got a thermo in your still you can choose to not use it but if you haven't you can't use it.
Its a good starting point "ok this must be what heads are". Once you get an idea of what cuts smell/ taste/ look like you can use your senses more and your thermo and alc % less.
Only issue with Punkins idea is as the run progresses the temp of the distillate increases(this is where you need to know your own still,Punkins distillate probably doesnt get hotter cause of his type of condenser) so the %abv appears to not change as quickly as it really is.
I found I was fluffing around too much with temps %abv and not using them as a guide to my senses cause in the end its the taste that matters
Guys'
I use the lot on my pot stilled whisky.
I have a thermometer at the head of my column where I take off the vapours and I also use a parrots beak and taste and smell.
The thermometer tells me what is happening at the take off and what is about to happen at the parrots beak because there is a small delay before the reading ing the parrot beak changes. Also I cheat by doing a taste test between the output of the liebig condenser and the outpuut put of the parrots beak at times. I usually do this when it is coming up to cut time.
I guess what I am really saying is that I use the imperical measurements to put me in a position where I know I am about to make the cuts and make the final decision on when by taste and smell.
I used a thermometer in the mash on my pot still to know when to cut the flame back. I’d fire it on high until the mash was about … Hrm, really don’t remember the actual temp. But after going to the low running flame it would rise another 10 or 15 degrees before settling down and finding its happy temp. The temp rise would depend on how strong the mash tasted. I could then tap the flame up or down depending on output. I do remember the magic mash temp was 200 F before the vapors made the trip to the coil. I didn’t use the temp at all for cuts, cuts were always done by taste and flame.
As far as knowing where in the run you were. I’d know the taste of the mash and how much was in the jug. I’d have a pretty good idea how much to expect on the first run by how alcoholic the mash tasted and smelled. When the jug got so full, depending on the Mash taste, you’d keep a closer eye on things.
I mite add when starting out run into small jars like like jelly jars or
if you have a real small still even smaller leave overnight smell and taste
mix want together except first one you will be able to see changes better
after you get used to it then you can use bigger containers
I mite add keep jars in order as it comes off still
Actually, it all looks as if we are pretty much in agreement. We mostly use these devices to recognize when changes are taking place and it is time to swap collection containers, adjust heat settings, have another smell & taste etc or even close every thing down.
Its just that we have different preferences for which device we care to use.
Good Cheer to all.
2"x38" Bok mini and
Pot still with Leibig on 45 litre boiler
tracker0945 wrote:Actually, it all looks as if we are pretty much in agreement. We mostly use these devices to recognize when changes are taking place and it is time to swap collection containers, adjust heat settings, have another smell & taste etc or even close every thing down.
Its just that we have different preferences for which device we care to use.
Good Cheer to all.
) of water in the bottom of the boiler for good measure.
