MLCS 9410 20amp router

[ddizzle22]

Looking at switching over to a heating element in the pot. I already have the mlcs router for 1500watt hot plate. Would I be able to utilize the router with a 5500watt heating element at 110v. Should I scrap this and built a new controller or will this work for me?

[skow69]

At 120 volts your element should provide about 1400 watts and draw about 11.5 amps, so you're in good shape. You are going to love the improvement over the hotplate. A submerged element is way more efficient.

[ddizzle22]

At 120 volts your element should provide about 1400 watts and draw about 11.5 amps, so you're in good shape. You are going to love the improvement over the hotplate. A submerged element is way more efficient.

Thats what i have been reading. I can tell you waiting 3hrs sucks lol. Really debating on just going to the keg setup so can run bigger batches. However that seems to cost alot more i did some search and the solder alone for welding to the keg is like $50 since it 1lb rolls. Do you think i need to add the heatsinks to the mlcs if i go this route?

[still_stirrin]

At 120 volts your element should provide about 1400 watts and draw about 11.5 amps, so you're in good shape...

Thats what i have been reading...Do you think i need to add the heatsinks to the mlcs if i go this route?

You'll be close to the "safety margin" limit (10% usually recommended).

As skow said, it's doable provided your motor speed control circuit is not "overrated" already.

But without doubt, it (the speed controller) will get hot. So, a heat sink or some means to dissipate internal heat will be necessary.

As you know (or should know) when electrical devices heat up, especially wires, their resistance increases. As that happens, they "sink" more power into wasted energy which turns into heat in the device. This certainly can cause premature failure of the device.

Operating "close to the margin" means that you likely could be replacing the motor speed controller soon if you run your heat element wide open for a period of time.
ss

[ddizzle22]

I think I might focus on building a controller and starting out 120v and then switching to 240v once I get a better understanding and using the dryer port I have currently.

[still_stirrin]

So have a serious look at the SSVR circuits. They will be adaptable from 120V to 240V with a minimum of component changes (a tuning potentiometer only). But you want to get a SSVR with at least a 25-30 amp capability. Wiring and connections should be appropriately sized. And you'll need to heat sink it accordingly too. There are some great build threads here in this forum explaining what and how.
ss

[ddizzle22]

I have been looking at the still dragon kit. That should allow both correct? Seems like it's a lot of the kits on here but all together and no wiring. If I can use that for 120 and 240v that would be the easiest way and the directions look great.

[skow69]

I don't see any need to rush. With the router speed controller you'll be pulling ~11.5 amps through a 20 amp device, so you'll only be running it at 58% of the rated power. Shouldn't need a heatsink, either. It's supposed to handle 20 amps right off the shelf, right? Router speed controllers are tough as hell in my experience. And you've got lots of headroom. Looks like the right tool for the job, to me.

[ddizzle22]

I don't see any need to rush. With the router speed controller you'll be pulling ~11.5 amps through a 20 amp device, so you'll only be running it at 58% of the rated power. Shouldn't need a heatsink, either. It's supposed to handle 20 amps right off the shelf, right? Router speed controllers are tough as hell in my experience. And you've got lots of headroom. Looks like the right tool for the job, to me.

It has handled the 1500watt hot plate that I modded and just gotten hot and no issues. I really would like to upgrade my pot to a keg is why the rush. I don't think one 5500w at 120v could handle the upgrade.