Updating Parent site

[Tater]

Anyone reading anything on parent site that isnt correct or questionable .Post that link to this topic.Any post without a link will be deleted.

[Soft batch]

Glass Jar thumper (with BPA lined lid), rubber grommets, and unknown seal on pressure cooker.
http://homedistiller.org/equip/designs/thumper

[cranky]

Thank you for starting this thread Tater.
I don't know how much you are willing and able to change on the parent site but one of the biggest problem we run into in regard to the parent site is that darn pressure cooker still on this page
http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-pot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Novices stumble across this one frequently then try to duplicate it and get jumped all over for doing so. If you can't get rid of it could you at least put a warning on it?

[cranky]

This is another safety one from this page http://homedistiller.org/equip/designs/make_pot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

The diameter of the tubing depends on the heat - for most stovetop models (typically built out of a pressure cooker) 1/4 to 1/2inch tubing is used for the lyne arm and the condensor. The narrower the tubing is, the lower the heat setting you need to use. The condensor running off of your potstill can be whatever diameter you have (provided it's no smaller than 1/4")

Of course we know that 3/8" is minimum with 1/2" preferred and they are no longer typically built out of pressure cookers.

[Bushman]

Not sure we want to promote these stills for sale anymore as the list is dated unless we work at an update:
Stills for sale

Probably don't want the following image of a glass oven top still:
Glass teapot still

What's new at HD has not been updated since 2012:
What's new at HD

[Truckinbutch]

Glad to see this happening .

[Kareltje]

Thank you for starting this thread Tater.
I don't know how much you are willing and able to change on the parent site but one of the biggest problem we run into in regard to the parent site is that darn pressure cooker still on this page
http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-pot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Novices stumble across this one frequently then try to duplicate it and get jumped all over for doing so. If you can't get rid of it could you at least put a warning on it?

I do not know if we are supposed to discuss here, but I do not really see mucht problems here. The first ones are rather primitive, but not dangerous.
Maybe the biggest problem is that novices get jumped over these designs. But I would trust that they will soon either stop the hobby or find some better installations.

Maybe a warning about the plastic tubes or the rubber sealings, but that would be all.

[Kareltje]

Probably don't want the following image of a glass oven top still:
Glass teapot still

What's new at HD has not been updated since 2002:
What's new at HD

Why not? I think of making a small still like it. Prefer 2 ltr pot and glass condenser, but see no harm in this construction. Apart from the plastic tube coming from the condenser.

2012. Maybe since your post it has already been updated, but then again: 2012 is five years ago.


Like Truckinbutch said: good work. Incites to look around on the home pages.

[bitter]

This has the glass teapot still also http://homedistiller.org/flavor" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow under Gin might want to remove it.. or have a warning

http://homedistiller.org/equip/first_run" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow might want to be updated to show the recomended cleaning bnch of different methods listed on that page. Simplify and ensure people have the right info

http://homedistiller.org/wash/ferment/high" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow This is not really wrong we just recommend against high gravity so not sure best way to fix this.

Thanks for spending the time to update this.

B

[frost021]

As to up dating the parent site just a thought instead of deleting everything,maybe putting things that are out dated and not safe to see where mishaps and certain dangers are and Not to Do's and thanks Tater and the others that mod the fourm for all you do

[rgreen2002]

WOW! Huge undertaking and a great project Tater! Best of luck here. I'll get over to the home site to take a look.

[Kareltje]

Who do you want to serve?
The novice who wants to start on the path of distilling?
The distiller, who wants to use a certain ingredient, make a specific taste or make a neutral drink?
The builder of very sophisticated stills?
The alcoholic, who wants to make cheap alcohol?

They are different people, who need different support and approach. And all are members of this forum. Or visitors of the site.

And the fear for danger: do not exaggerate it.

[rgreen2002]

I just remembered.... the links to the HD Wiki.... they have never gone anywhere for me since I joined a few years back. So at the top of this page AND at http://homedistiller.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow.

[Tater]

Just remember to put link to subject in question . We will look into all that are marked.

[The Baker]

Thank you for starting this thread Tater.
I don't know how much you are willing and able to change on the parent site but one of the biggest problem we run into in regard to the parent site is that darn pressure cooker still on this page
http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-pot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Novices stumble across this one frequently then try to duplicate it and get jumped all over for doing so. If you can't get rid of it could you at least put a warning on it?

Hi,
This is maybe not as simple as it sounds.
I have just finished (shock, horror, speak softly) a pressure cooker still.
Stainless steel.
Looks prettier than the one on the old site.
I will heat it on the wok burner of the outside barbeque (maybe, 'grill', for you foreigners err Americans) or a small hot plate I have...
Water from the built-in-liebig will run onto the tomato patch for now.
And when I get set up again with other stills (16 and 20 litre electric urn pot stills and maybe thumpers) (and maybe put the 50 (or so) litre pot still I used to run on propane, onto the domestic supply...);
I will make gin in the little one.
Geoff

[Truckinbutch]

Thank you for starting this thread Tater.
I don't know how much you are willing and able to change on the parent site but one of the biggest problem we run into in regard to the parent site is that darn pressure cooker still on this page
http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-pot" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Novices stumble across this one frequently then try to duplicate it and get jumped all over for doing so. If you can't get rid of it could you at least put a warning on it?

Hi,
This is maybe not as simple as it sounds.
I have just finished (shock, horror, speak softly) a pressure cooker still.
Stainless steel.
Looks prettier than the one on the old site.
I will heat it on the wok burner of the outside barbeque (maybe, 'grill', for you foreigners err Americans) or a small hot plate I have...
Water from the built-in-liebig will run onto the tomato patch for now.
And when I get set up again with other stills (16 and 20 litre electric urn pot stills and maybe thumpers) (and maybe put the 50 (or so) litre pot still I used to run on propane, onto the domestic supply...);
I will make gin in the little one.
Geoff

Well , I'm not touching this . We just lost a couple of good members this week over controversy and I could care less what you build with .

[Tater]

Lets keep debates outta this. Put links ya think need looking at .If ya don't wanna help please don't post in this topic.Any posts with out a link will be removed .

[cranky]

I didn't figure we needed to debate among ourselves on this one. We have been asked to point out problems, I will lay out where I feel they are, what they are and why I think they are a problem and the mods can make the decisions, if they have any questions or need clarification as to why I feel these things need to go all they have to do is ask me and I will be happy to answer any questions they have.

Now, that said this page
http://homedistiller.org/equip/designs/pot_plan" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
is just full of bad info from that damn pressure cooker again, a still made out of a paint can and even this statement

No welding - just glue, silicone, clamps. All this is sitable for most kitchen stoves and sinks. Obviously this is an introductory still for the beginner.Paint tins are not heavily coated. Kept dry it should last years - rust remover will extend this.

I forgot to mention Safety aspects important as we don't want kitchens going up in flames! I switch the exhaust fan on to take away any stray fumes, even though the ring clamp is air-tight. I made the lyne arm quite long for partial reflux and to take it away from the stove. The distillate outlet tube goes down to the floor, well away from the stove. An electric stove might be safer, although apparently slower.

There is a whole lot wrong in that quote and I'm sure there is more on that page that could really use cleaned up

[wtfdskin]

http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-moonshine" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

I use a medium sized (75 gal) pot still with a doubler/thumper (5 gal) and a shotgun condenser for my purposes. I also utilize a 20 gallon outfit with a 1 gallon doubler

[Uncle Jesse]

I just remembered.... the links to the HD Wiki.... they have never gone anywhere for me since I joined a few years back. So at the top of this page AND at http://homedistiller.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow.

the wiki broke years ago. I hope to work on getting it fixed soon because I really liked it.

[cranky]

http://homedistiller.org/theory/refluxdesign/your" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Suggestions include paint tins as seen in walt or AV25L or a preserving pan with a clipped lid like Teds at http://mwci.s5.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow.

I already mentioned the paint tins on another page. The preserving pad is enameled steel.

[cranky]

http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-reflux" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Peter's Still with Vodka Bottle Condenser
I think it is really a bad idea to keep this one showing a cut off bottle being used as a reflux condenser.

Also on that page under
Victors Aircooled Still

I seal the lid with a rubber gasket and steel band. The gasket I made from (some type of) rubber round, cut to length with a splice joint and glued with contact adhesive. Against all expectations, its lasted and lasted and shows no signs of failing.

I feel this bit can be removed without affecting the past as a whole, although there are a few other minor outdated things in that post they aren't really safety issues.

and
Ted's Still at http://mwci.s5.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Which again is made from an enameled canning kettle rather than approved materials.

Then there is the advertisement at the bottom of that page for
The Ultra Pure Still at http://www.puredistilling.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I only mention this because advertising seems out of place.

[Uncle Jesse]

Keep combing the site. We are planning a concerted effort to update things, which is long overdue.

[shadylane]

http://homedistiller.org/wash/ferment/pitch" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

"If using dried yeast, it can be helped along by letting it soak in about 1C of warm (24 °C) water for about an hour beforehand'

Figure 15 minutes would be plenty of time.
Yeast will have rehydrated and begin to starve to death in an hour.
http://www.scottlab.com/uploads/documen ... lemand.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[shadylane]

Over the years I've seen newbies get into trouble
asking about making carbon filters out of plastic pipe.
And here's were they found the idea

http://homedistiller.org/distill/polish/methods" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[cranky]

I know I may have a bit of a jump on people because I started making this list as the beginnings of the spoon feeding thread but I hope the other members are busy going through here to help improve the parent site. I know it is a bit tedious but just take some time, pick a page, read through it and make notes, before you know it you have made it through an entire page, then take a break and be silly on the forums for a bit and soon we will have the parent site cleaned up and full of the good useful safe information it should have.

Now, this page
http://homedistiller.org/equip/photos-sold" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Specifically this still

Duplast at Des Zine's Code Imports
Duplast Reflux Performance : 80 - 82%

Dean Watts comments : My still has a Plastic boiling chamber (basically a brew barrel which you can by the way, see through and see the wash boiling correctly.) This then connects to a plastic reflux tower which is 11cm wide by 30cm tall. Then it connects to a Copper head (another 18cm high) unit which has the reflux condenser inside mounted about 9cm from the top. As the copper head is the last thing to be assembled you can only put media in the 30cm Tower.

Plastic still with plastic column! nuf said.

and this one
Bob's MoonWater Still at http://www.encode.com/exec" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
has a dead link. I think there are probably a lot of dead links that someone may look into.

[bitter]

I ran the site through https://validator.w3.org/checklink" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow and shows quit a number of broken links. too long to post here.. worth doing as part of the cleanup. I set only 6 levels deeps.. coudl start with 3 and then go from there.

B

[der wo]

http://homedistiller.org/distill/dtw/toss" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
The terms foreshots and methanol are confused.
Be ruthless about tossing the first 50 mL (off a 20L wash) that you collect, as this contains any methanol (causer of hangovers - small quantities, or blindness - larger quantities).
I think it's proved wrong in the meantime. We have four or five studies proving the opposite, methanol in the tails or at least similar in all fractions.

[cranky]

http://homedistiller.org/equip/concept" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
This is in the 2nd paragraph where it talks about heating with gas and I feel this particular sentance really doesn't add anything to the text and does more harm than good talking about using glass and propane together.

I use gas (9kg l.p.g. bottle) with my small glass still that I use for experimenting, and for botanicals.

A little further down the page it talks about using a double boiler and once again mentions using paint cans

I use quart and gallon unlined, new paint cans.

Same page under Boiling kettles it once again mentions

pressure cookers

Under Lid on that page

You may want to consider some form of pressure relief valve - eg a rubber grommet pushed into place. Some lids use a length of soft PVC tubing split along its length to fit around the edge of the lid - this deforms when the lid is fastened, and helps maintain a good seal.

As we know, a rubber grommet and PVC tubing are bad things.

Last on that page is

Thermometer
You need to be able to track the progress of the distillation. For pot stills the thermometer needs to be mounted in the head, whereas it should be at the top of the packed column in a reflux still. In both cases, its just prior to the final condensor.

As we know a thermometer isn't really necessary in a pot still

[cranky]

http://homedistiller.org/equip" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
Under gaskets and seals.

Jan Willem writes :

I made a still with a soup pan and a doughbowl, the seals I tried were;
rubber gasket - too stiff and smelly
silicone rubber tubing sliced open - well ok sort off, not perfect
silicone gasket or as the packing say's Form-A-Gasket no.6 I aplied it as a thin stripe and let it dry. Now i placed the dough bowl on it and fastened it (check my website I don't know exactly how to describe my contraption) Its been opened and closed now for about 15 times and still ok. And when its damaged easy repair or exchange with a new layer. Oh the manufacterer is Loctite and its called Blue Silicone RTV Catalog number 18869 and is also sold in europe

Gateswood Quarterhorses confirms this as suitable;

High-temp RTV is stable to 650° F. (intermittent) and resistant to most shop fluids. I assume this could include alcohol. It is also pressure resistant. Not recommended for contact with gasoline but I've had no problems with diesel fuel.

I would think that after it has fully cured it would be safe and effective for patching a still.

Rob van Leuven writes :

I have used a so-called aquarium grade silicon; after it has cured completely and the vessel (or fishtank) has been rinsed with water a couple of times, it does not release any chemicals. If it did, it would kill the fish immediately, because they are especially susceptable to chemical pollution (especially sea fish). The sealant/adhesive is resistant to temperatures up to 150 Celsius and inert to most solvents, acids etc...

If you want to make a removable gasket, you can squeeze a large blob of sealant between two panels of melamine faced chipboard which you have previously covered in dishwashing detergent (fairy liquid). Don't forget to separate the two panels with spacers which have the same thickness you want the gasket to have. After it has cured completely you can cut out the right shape with a sharp knife; put the gasket in boiling water for a while to remove any residues and you have a longlife silicon rubber gasket! Necessity is the mother of invention as the Irish say:)

Harry advises:

The trick is to use non-acetic cure silicone. IOW, if it smells like vinegar when it's curing, it's no good. RTV (i.e. (R)oom (T) emperature (V)ulcanizing silicone works fine. I use Selley's Roof & Gutter Sealant (look it up). The last seal I made for my copper boiler was nearly 3 years ago now, and it's still working fine. YMMV.

How to connect the column to the pot lid ? Scott writes ...

use a sink strainer. Mine is nickle plated bronze that goes for $10 here in the US. It has two thread diameters. The larger one is screwed into a hole in my lid that I cut and rounded with a Dremel (this takes a bit of patience). An added bonus is that the strainer has crosshairs that keep the packing out of the pot. The smaller diameter screws into a female, 1.5 in. copper fitting that costs about $4. An inert rubber gasket or aquarium grade silicone provides the seal. I used a beer mini-keg gasket that cost me $1. I also use a bit of PTFE tape on the thread just to be safe, and this cost me $1.

The boiler is a 20 quart, el cheapo s.s. stock pot that I got for $14 at "McFrugals" here in California. Because it's thin steel, I use pipe insulation tape that runs for $5.

So, the total cost, minus the Dremel, was $35 US for the strainer, pot, gasket, PTFE tape, copper fitting, and pipe thread.

Basically that whole thing is about using inappropriate sealing materials.

Then there is this which talks about using polycarbonate as well as RTV

In the photos section, you might have seen the pictures of Rays Keg still. Here's how he did it ...

I cut the hole out with a friend's plasma torch. I make a fixture using the top piece of the original valve (see the large ring) which fits perfect into the opening. Next, I used a brass nipple, cut it, and turned the inside diameter to match he plasma torch tip. I silver soldered it together using welding rod bent to match the radius of the keg. Kind of a kluge, but it worked well. Here are some pictures of it with the cut out piece.



At first I had leak problems because the hole I cut into the keg was so close to the seal, it had to be centered exactly, or it leaked. Using the same seal, I cut a polycarbonate disk and placed it against the seal, added a gasket and it worked fine. Leaving a flat surface for the seal, and the keg convex top cant miss the gasket. The gasket width gave me a lot more flexibility with centering to the hole. You can see the line around the opening, the original seal locates inside the line.



Next, I built another lid (untried as of yet) but cut a .5" wide, .075 deep grove around radius, which will center on the keg opening and filled it with RTV. It should be reusable several times, and it fits really nice. The first pix shows the 2-15 degree angles on the copper disk edge, that really helps keep the seal (black) in place. I use a brass pin in the bottom of the column to hold the packing in place, easy to remove so the polycarbonate disk can be slid on.



While I was making plastic circles and a big mess in the garage I cut this one to fit a stainless pot with a flat edge. I used a paper gasket, and lots of clamps to hold it down, that's how I got the mini model (see the photos page). This looks lots simpler without clamps.



And, last but not least, (while I was continuing the mess in the garage) I made a smaller disk and put a hole in it to match a carboy. Now, the standard fermentation lock and cork will fit, and I can use the keg for a ferment container. Still working on a good wort recipe, after that I'll try this setup. The brown protective paper is still attached, that gets removed.