Nuwave Induction Cooker

[masterguru]

Nuwave Induction for stainless boilers 5 gallons and lower. The best hands down.

Get one.

Enough said

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPZYFK2/re ... 7961164524" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[NZChris]

Nuwave Induction for stainless boilers 5 gallons and lower. The best hands down.

Get one.

Enough said

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPZYFK2/re ... 7961164524" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Extremely precise 5 degree temperature increments even more temperature control;

That doesn't sound too good for distilling.

[masterguru]

Why would you say that, I have first hand proof it works better and it is much safer.

[masterguru]

Nuwave Induction for stainless boilers 5 gallons and lower. The best hands down.

Get one.

Enough said

The temp controller is better than any gas or electric .

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPZYFK2/re ... 7961164524" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

Extremely precise 5 degree temperature increments even more temperature control;

That doesn't sound too good for distilling.

[still_stirrin]

Why would you say that...

Because the wash will boil at the temperature of the mixture of alcohol and water (according to Raoult's law).
http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/pha ... ealpd.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

The saturation temperature (the temperature that both liquid and vapor states coexist) of the mixture will change (rise) as the percentage of alcohol in the water/alcohol mixture decreases. Setting a thermostat to boil at a specific temperature will produce vapor at a declining rate as the mixture liberates its alcohol.

But remember, when boiling, the vapor includes both water and alcohol molecules. So, you're extracting both from the wash. If you want additional separation, you'll need multiple re-boilings like you get from a reflux column. The multiple cycles of boiling-condensing-reboiling, etc. separate the water from higher volatile liquids (alcohols and more).

Also, the "boil rate", or vapor production rate is a function of heat input, not temperature. The heat input is the rate energy is added to the mixture. It directly affects the production of vapors and distillate at the product outlet. Setting the heat input constant will produce a steady vapor stream irrespective of the saturation temperature. This is why the electric element controller is important as opposed to a thermostatic type of control.
ss

[seamusm53]

From a safety perspective, yes, an induction heater has the advantage of no open flame.

And if you are prepared to fiddle with the set temp by slowly raising the setting to adjust boiler temp sufficient to maintain the desired rate of input, then it should work fine. Because we all know that unsupervised distillation is a no-no and if you're gonna be standing by you might as well be doing something other than sampling output.

And while an induction plate is more expensive than most other heaters it does have an advantage of being less expensive to run than gas.

I had toyed with this same idea but wasn't sure that the induction plate could safely hold the weight of my boiler. So I decided not.

[masterguru]

Why would you say that...

Because the wash will boil at the temperature of the mixture of alcohol and water (according to Raoult's law).
http://www.chemguide.co.uk/physical/pha ... ealpd.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

The saturation temperature (the temperature that both liquid and vapor states coexist) of the mixture will change (rise) as the percentage of alcohol in the water/alcohol mixture decreases. Setting a thermostat to boil at a specific temperature will produce vapor at a declining rate as the mixture liberates its alcohol.

But remember, when boiling, the vapor includes both water and alcohol molecules. So, you're extracting both from the wash. If you want additional separation, you'll need multiple re-boilings like you get from a reflux column. The multiple cycles of boiling-condensing-reboiling, etc. separate the water from higher volatile liquids (alcohols and more).

Also, the "boil rate", or vapor production rate is a function of heat input, not temperature. The heat input is the rate energy is added to the mixture. It directly affects the production of vapors and distillate at the product outlet. Setting the heat input constant will produce a steady vapor stream irrespective of the saturation temperature. This is why the electric element controller is important as opposed to a thermostatic type of control.
ss

I know that, I have a reflux still and I know how to use it with induction. I use liquid managment at 550 , 450 , & 350. In that order . I know that it takes more that constant temp at 170 to boil off the Ang.

[OtisT]

Hi. I'm curious what you are comparing the induction heater to ( i.e. Better than what?), and the why/how it's better. I know well what induction is and the science of it, but I have never used induction for cooking or stillin. I do have a lot of hot plate experience to compare against. Always interested in how others do it. Thanks, Otis.

[Johnny6]

I've got a 3 gallon Rad-Concentric rig. I started off using a 1000W hot plate but switched over to an induction cook top about a year and a half ago and I've had very good results. I've got an 1800W DUXTOP induction cooktop (recommended by rgreen2002). It has two modes of operation: temperature regulation or power level. I run it in the power level mode where you can set the output power in 10% increments. The requirement that you have to have a compatible pot is a bit frustrating. I found a beautiful pot at a good price and it appeared that it would be compatible, but when I got it home, it wasn't. Took me a couple tries. (As an aside, it turns out that hardly any of the kitchen pots or pans we have are compatible either.)

I think that the induction cooktop does a much better job of delivering the power into the pot than the original hot plate ever did. Even at 50% power it seems to get more heat into the boil than the original 1000W hot plate, even though the math would suggest otherwise. Also, there is no perceptible cycling on and off of the power. The regulation must be at a much higher, perhaps cycle-by-cycle rate. The heat delivery is even. With the hot plate I could often observe areas on the bottom of the pot that were in direct contact with the heater coils and were hotter. I don't get that with the induction cooker, the heat is spread into a wider ring on the bottom of the pot. At the end of a run, when switching off, the boiling stops nearly instantly and the cooktop is cool enough to put away in about 10 minutes.

I've been very happy with it. My 2 cents.

[masterguru]

Yeah people don't know how good they are because they have never used them.

[Euphoria]

I was under the impression that in order for an induction heater to work properly, if at all, the metallic make-up of the pot or pan sitting on it had to be ferrous (i.e. magnetic,) and since many of the better stainless steels don't have a high ferrous content, I wouldn't think it would work all that well, but then I haven't actually used one. But, that said, I think I'm going to stick with my 5,500 Watt stainless heating elements and my controllers for heating my boilers. But if it works for you, then I guess that's all that matters.

[papapro]

I do use this nuwave induction cooktop and is perfect the only confusion all the master distillers have that they show deg F on settings but in reality they controll power output, I think that maufacture used setting for frying temps when the water is not used only oil.
Beside that all ss pots have thick buttom which is difuser my cooktop is cheaper version only 1300 W
and and setting below 210 F has some fluctuation and as for example 800 W the fluctuation is whithin
8 W and that it might be because of hydro.
For newbes I would recommend it and guys forget the temps setting is the power you control.

Regards PapaPro