correct size element for 15 gallon keg pot still ?

[SchmuBrew]

currently building a pot out of an old 15 gallon ss keg,

right now it only has one threaded port for an internal element.

initially considered a single 1500 watt element (so that I can run off 110v) but concerned if it will get to temp or not (i don't care if it takes 2 hours, but will it get the job done?)

now thinking running a 4000 watt element @ 220v for heating and dropping to 110 volt (1000 watt) once up to temp

alternative is to add another element port (but that means waiting and the welder is ready to do the job)


thoughts and opinions greatly appreciated, and thank you in advance

[LWTCS]

Why not run a 5500 watt with a controller?
The 5500 will be priced the same as a 1500.
And the controller will allow for precise control that you will not get with a DPDT switch or multiple elements.

Can pick up a kit for 40 bux, Plug ends about 20 bux each, service cord bout 2 bux a foot.

[bluefish_dist]

5500. Then add a controller. Also it's only 5500 on 240. On 208 it's 4000.

[SchmuBrew]

Is there a disadvantage to using an off the shelf cheapo controller? rated 10,000 watts, under $30

I'm not trying to put jack daniels out of business, just want something simple that works and (hopefully) doesn't melt.

[zapata]

That picture doesnt work for me, but I don't know of an OTS controller that cheap.

I have done low watt 120v runs before for various reasons, it will work, very slowly, and insulation will be really important. That being said, I think its too slow. Not just in terms of time, but I think the product kinda suffers from straggling out like that. Maybe not, maybe it was just those runs. So to your specific question, yes it will work.

1500 watt reflux runs are more reasonable for a 2" column, but again slow.

[SchmuBrew]

Not sure what's up with the photo,
But the piece I am referring to is eBay # 112510127724

[shadylane]

I think this is the controller your asking about
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC220V-10000W-S ... Sw5n5ZhNN9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I've heard from others that has used it

[SchmuBrew]

Thats the one, among many other similar options.

Was thier feedback positive?
Or were there issues?

[shadylane]

I can't recommend for or against the controller.
I would recommend using a small fan to cool the heat-sink

[Pikey]

I use a couple of cheapo chinese versions of the one listed. You need to be over specified or it is likely to burn out (Ask me how I know ) , but 10k for 5k load sounds about right.

[SchmuBrew]

The info listed on the item advises to run at 1/2 of listed capacity,
For the price I will order 2, and post a review here once I have some mileage on it.

[Swedish Pride]

I think this is the controller your asking about
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC220V-10000W-S ... Sw5n5ZhNN9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I've heard from others that has used it

I have this one installed , only done 8 runs or so but works fine.
make sure you have big enough gauge cable as my fist controller melted a bit due to the cable overheating.

[nuntius01]

i have a 15 gallon still. i use a 5500w element. can heat 13 gallons to boil in an hour. as to the controler. not sure. i built my own. there are a few schematics on this site to help you build one. biggest thing is making sure you have sufficient power. i have a dedicated 100amp service that i pulled for mine. make sure your wire and service can handle the load.

[Johnnywhiskey]

I don't think 1000w or 1500w will cut it for a 15g boiler. I typically run my still (15g keggle) at ~3000w in pot / no reflux mode when I am collecting. Get the 240v / 5500w element and put the controller on it. Don't forget to put a GFIC on your power supply also.

I used this controller -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CC ... UTF8&psc=1

It has a fan and I like the dial rather than digital controller--but costs a little more also.

[zapata]

2nd gfi protection, I wouldnt touch an electric rig without it.

[Antler24]

I think this is the controller your asking about
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC220V-10000W-S ... Sw5n5ZhNN9" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
I've heard from others that has used it

I have this one installed , only done 8 runs or so but works fine.
make sure you have big enough gauge cable as my fist controller melted a bit due to the cable overheating.

I'm using the same controller. 15g with 5500w element. It's been working fine for me for 2.5yrs. can't complain about it at all.

I will add that before my controller arrived I did a spirit run without it. I wired up the element directly to the power cord for full 5500w until the column got hot, then I rewired it on 120v with an old extension cord, giving 1375w. It was slow, but it got me through my first spirit run.

[JohnsMyName]

I have a 4500w internal element on 220v that draws 26amps. I can go from cool tap to boiling 13 gallons of water in about 25min on high.

For actual runs I get it up to about 140 in the kettle on high and turn it down to 8-10 amps until the head gets to about 160 then turn down to 6amps for most of my run, only needing to go up when I get into the tails. The initial heat up using the "slow" method is about 45-50 for first drops.

[Antler24]

I have a 4500w internal element on 220v that draws 26amps. I can go from cool tap to boiling 13 gallons of water in about 25min on high.

For actual runs I get it up to about 140 in the kettle on high and turn it down to 8-10 amps until the head gets to about 160 then turn down to 6amps for most of my run, only needing to go up when I get into the tails. The initial heat up using the "slow" method is about 45-50 for first drops.

That's very fast. Takes me 45-50 minutes to get 12g of room temp wash up to first drips. That's with 5500w/240v

[LWTCS]

Loose rule of thumb would be 70 watts per liter for a 1 hour heat up.

[JohnsMyName]

I have a 4500w internal element on 220v that draws 26amps. I can go from cool tap to boiling 13 gallons of water in about 25min on high.

For actual runs I get it up to about 140 in the kettle on high and turn it down to 8-10 amps until the head gets to about 160 then turn down to 6amps for most of my run, only needing to go up when I get into the tails. The initial heat up using the "slow" method is about 45-50 for first drops.

That's very fast. Takes me 45-50 minutes to get 12g of room temp wash up to first drips. That's with 5500w/240v

What part is fast, boiling water in 25 min or my actual run dripping in 50 min?

[Antler24]

I have a 4500w internal element on 220v that draws 26amps. I can go from cool tap to boiling 13 gallons of water in about 25min on high.

For actual runs I get it up to about 140 in the kettle on high and turn it down to 8-10 amps until the head gets to about 160 then turn down to 6amps for most of my run, only needing to go up when I get into the tails. The initial heat up using the "slow" method is about 45-50 for first drops.

That's very fast. Takes me 45-50 minutes to get 12g of room temp wash up to first drips. That's with 5500w/240v

What part is fast, boiling water in 25 min or my actual run dripping in 50 min?

Boiling water in 25 minutes.

[Pirateforlife]

Hoping I'm posting this in a reasonable place.

I'm using a 50l keg and trying to heat up with 2 camco ulwd foldback 1500w 120v heating elements. Theyre maybe 4.5 inches long.
Ill probably only fill the keg with 10g. Just wondering if this is reasonable.

Also my main problem. I cannot find a way to screw these damn things in yet. Havent drilled any holes yet because I don't want to do anything I don't have to. First idea was to hole saw out the correct size to just screw it straight in the keg. No idea what size to drill.
Next was find a threaded ferrule or flange nut to weld to it to screw it in. Pretty sure its a 1 1/4 inch needed. But I'm not able to find anything online yet fitting those sizes.

So PLEASE. If anyone has any advice on how to heat with elements and how to install them please let me know.

[Pirateforlife]

Also what's the best way to ground these?

Soldering/screwing straight in etc.

[Expat]

I'm using a 50l keg and trying to heat up with 2 camco ulwd foldback 1500w 120v heating elements. Theyre maybe 4.5 inches long.
Ill probably only fill the keg with 10g. Just wondering if this is reasonable.

3000w total is workable but its slow for a keg boiler, a single 5500w 240v element is better and less work to install.

Also my main problem. I cannot find a way to screw these damn things in yet. Havent drilled any holes yet because I don't want to do anything I don't have to. First idea was to hole saw out the correct size to just screw it straight in the keg. No idea what size to drill.
Next was find a threaded ferrule or flange nut to weld to it to screw it in. Pretty sure its a 1 1/4 inch needed. But I'm not able to find anything online yet fitting those sizes.

You can't screw an element into a raw hole in a keg. Best option is to solder a 2" tri clamp ferrule and then buy an adapter for the element. Easy to remove and clean. Plenty of threads on how to do this.

[Pirateforlife]

Much appreciated. The thing is I dont have access to 240 unless I do something with my dryer or something like that. And I think it's over 50% loss if I use 120 for 240. So that would put me around the same or less voltage wouldn't it?

And since it's such a short element do I need to worry about how tall the ferrules are? Dont want to have a 2'' tall ferrule and only half my element in the wash.

Or if anybody has any good ideas about how I can run this as 240 instead I'm open. I've already bought 2 of the elements stated earlier. But if I could install just one to heat it would be less work and less chances of something going wrong.

[Pirateforlife]

Also any pictures of your own heating element set up or link to websites where I can find compatible ferrules to adapter to my element (1 1/4 I think) would be extremely helpful and appreciated.

Thanks for all the help.

[still_stirrin]

...I'm using a 50l keg and trying to heat up with 2 camco ulwd foldback 1500w 120v heating elements. Theyre maybe 4.5 inches long....Just wondering if this is reasonable.

Does it look like this?

E7554660-F5B2-4997-996D-699A337967F4.jpeg

That is not a ULWD element. It is a “low watt density” (LWD) because it is shorter than the 4.5kW and 5.5kW 240VAC elements which are considered ULWD.

Using two of the elements in the boiler will work but the local surface temperatures will be hotter than the ULWD elements. This increases the possibility for scorching your wash if it isn’t cleared better. It will work, but if you used 2 ULWD elements on 120VAC circuits, they deliver 1/4 their rated heating power over significantly larger surface areas, minimizing local surface temperatures.

Also, because of the current draw, you’ll need to use two separate household circuits so you don’t overload the wiring.

Of note, you can run a 240VAC rated element on 120VAC. But you should not attempt to run a 120VAC rated element on 240VAC. It would try to pass too much current and cause the element to burn out catastrophically.
ss

[still_stirrin]

Also any pictures of your own heating element set up or link to websites where I can find compatible ferrules to adapter to my element (1 1/4 I think) would be extremely helpful and appreciated.

Something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32611338951.html

Incidently, most heater emements in the USA are 1” NPS, straight (not tapered) pipe threads.
ss

[Pirateforlife]

This is the exact element I'm using.

[quote=still_stirrin post_id=7576033 time=1570718495
[/quote]
Does it look like this?
E7554660-F5B2-4997-996D-699A337967F4.jpeg
That is not a ULWD element. It is a “low watt density” (LWD) because it is shorter than the 4.5kW and 5.5kW 240VAC elements which are considered ULWD.

Using two of the elements in the boiler will work but the local surface temperatures will be hotter than the ULWD elements. This increases the possibility for scorching your wash if it isn’t cleared better. It will work, but if you used 2 ULWD elements on 120VAC circuits, they deliver 1/4 their rated heating power over significantly larger surface areas, minimizing local surface temperatures.

Also, because of the current draw, you’ll need to use two separate household circuits so you don’t overload the wiring.

Of note, you can run a 240VAC rated element on 120VAC. But you should not attempt to run a 120VAC rated element on 240VAC. It would try to pass too much current and cause the element to burn out catastrophically.
ss
[/quote]

And yes I'll have two 20a circuits with gfi for this. At least that was my plan.

[Pirateforlife]

Also any pictures of your own heating element set up or link to websites where I can find compatible ferrules to adapter to my element (1 1/4 I think) would be extremely helpful and appreciated.

Something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32611338951.html

Incidently, most heater emements in the USA are 1” NPS, straight (not tapered) pipe threads.
ss

My God. There has to be a cheaper option of installing these things.

Thanks for the info still stirrin