Help with a heating element controller?

[Signbow]

Alright so straight down to business. I’m currently working on building a small 5 gallon electric still just to have something to test out funky recipes with before I go full scale with my larger still and I like the idea of being able to run it in my shed with out having all the doors and windows open. I have the design down for my pot (it’s just a small 1/6th keg with a 2” ferrule fitting tig welded onto the side of the keg near the bottom.) What I don’t have worked out is my heat source, I have a element picked out. It’s the 110v 2000w heating element assembly from mile high distilling I was just wondering if I could get away with using a cheaper controller. The one they have at mile high distilling is quite expensive (over 100$) and I was wondering if I could use a cheaper alternative. The only reason I ask this is because through my snooping on various distilling online storesDo you guys think that the mile high 2000w element would work with the controller from eBay? I don’t know anything about electricity myself so this might be a horrible idea. If it is just say so and I’ll wait until I can scrape up the cash and buy the mile high controller and the mile high element. Sorry for the confusing post and thanks in advance for the replies.

Mile high 2000v heating element: https://milehidistilling.com/product/he ... 2000-watt/
Mile high controller: https://milehidistilling.com/product/st ... 2000-watt/

eBay controller: AC or DC Electrical Motor Variable Volt ... ="nofollow

[still_stirrin]

Nope.

2000W / 120 VAC = 16.67 amps

That controller is limited to 15 amps maximum.

Not enough current handling capability for a 2kW element. It’s rated for a 1.5kW element maximum.

I know...math sucks. But sometimes you’ve got to do it. And you MUST live within the boundaries.
ss

A double check shows a 2kW capable controller at Mile Hi for $199 USD. That would work with your 2kW element. But you can’t “cheap out”.

[chris]

Check out this controller, I just built a small 110v 1650w rig using the 10,000w version and I am very happy. Couple of plugs, wires, voltage/amp meter and an enclosure and you are well below the cost of any controller. Add a GFCI and you are in business.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4 ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DV ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20- ... /301304871" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

[Signbow]

If I found a 20amp controller would it work?

[Pikey]

Your element is 2000 watts (2KW) - 10,000 watt controller should do it fine - one similar does mine without any problems.

(I'd say don't cheapskate down to 5000 watts tho' you're taking continuous power and I burned out a 5kw after about an hour and a half - chinese from ebay - but at £10 it was no problem and the upgrade sorted it out a treat)

[Edit check out the one in the post above yours - the amazon one !]

[20 Amps at 110 volts is still well on the light side IMO]

[Signbow]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I’ll probably just end up biting the bulletin and purchasing a complete kit with a element and a controller. Building one looks a little to techy for me, it’s probably not that hard if you just follow a schematic or a blueprint. I just really don’t want to get shocked or start a fire.

[chris]

Just remember you are going to need a 20amp outlet to run that 2000w element. For that reason I went with a 1650w element, mine pulls about 13amps give or take full bore according to my volt/amp meter.

[Antler24]

You can go cheap just get one rated for what your using. I bought a $20 eBay controller almost 3 years ago for my 5500w setup and it's still going strong.

[Mike6090]

For a 8 gal still running a 5 gal batch the 2000 watt heater is really nice. It will give you a 45 min heat up without much risk of burning a clean wash. The matching controller is simple but gives you splendid control so you can easily adjust your temp to one or Two degrees. I looked at that or a inkbird PID controller. The problem with the inkbird it it outputs to a relay. Most real PIDs use an analog output but the inkbird relay controls temp by flickering which might be bad for the heater. It just seems easier to monitor overhead dial temp on the temperature gauge and adjust the manual knob.

[acfixer69]

Thanks for all the replies so far. I’ll probably just end up biting the bulletin and purchasing a complete kit with a element and a controller. Building one looks a little to techy for me, it’s probably not that hard if you just follow a schematic or a blueprint. I just really don’t want to get shocked or start a fire.

I under stand that reasoning sort of. But some one else is building you a piece that you don't know enough to if it's dangerous just trusting. If it's on the internet it must be true. If the sell it at every the home brew store it must be safe.

AC

[Antler24]

It just seems easier to monitor overhead dial temp on the temperature gauge and adjust the manual knob.

You shouldn't be adjusting heat input based on thermometer readings, a thermometer on a pot still might be fun to look at but serves no purpose.

[Mike6090]

It just seems easier to monitor overhead dial temp on the temperature gauge and adjust the manual knob.

You shouldn't be adjusting heat input based on thermometer readings, a thermometer on a pot still might be fun to look at but serves no purpose.

No doubt but it’s very difficult when just starting out to know what to do. It’s easy for an experienced car driver to drive a stick shift and never look at the tac or speedometer. But a new driver can benefit from knowing the engine should be run between 1500-3000 rpm to keep speed.

Being able to gauge that proper trickle and feel temp by hand and all those other tricks seem like voodoo to us new guys. We are still blind in the dark. Right now I got the hydrometer but the shaking the jar to read the bubble is witchcraft. (Embarrassed). It will come I know but right now I need a crutch.

[Pikey]

Mike, they say you can't run a pot still by controlling the temperature - I say you CAN - just set the temperature at around 215 F or 103 C and adjust the power so you get the "Pencil lead stream" -

[Antler24]

It just seems easier to monitor overhead dial temp on the temperature gauge and adjust the manual knob.

You shouldn't be adjusting heat input based on thermometer readings, a thermometer on a pot still might be fun to look at but serves no purpose.

No doubt but it’s very difficult when just starting out to know what to do. It’s easy for an experienced car driver to drive a stick shift and never look at the tac or speedometer. But a new driver can benefit from knowing the engine should be run between 1500-3000 rpm to keep speed.

Being able to gauge that proper trickle and feel temp by hand and all those other tricks seem like voodoo to us new guys. We are still blind in the dark. Right now I got the hydrometer but the shaking the jar to read the bubble is witchcraft. (Embarrassed). It will come I know but right now I need a crutch.

Looking at the tachometer in your car is useless if you don't know what gear your in. Your not understanding. The thermometer is not a crutch it tells you nothing, it's literally useless! You might as well look at the fuel gauge in your car to judge speed, it's completely irrelevant! The only thing you should be using to judge speed of a run is the stream coming off the condenser.

[RedwoodHillBilly]

OK, I'll chime in to this OT part of the thread. I have a thermometer just before my PC. It lets me know when I should turn on the water to the PC. It also gives me an approximate output ABV. I don't make cuts by it, but it does have some value to me. Could I run without it? Absolutely. Does it give me additional information? Absolutely. Do I control power input based on it? No.

To each their own, but I think that I'll keep my thermometer in it's current position.

[Pikey]

OK, I'll chime in to this OT part of the thread. I have a thermometer just before my PC. It lets me know when I should turn on the water to the PC. It also gives me an approximate output ABV. I don't make cuts by it, but it does have some value to me. Could I run without it? Absolutely. Does it give me additional information? Absolutely. Do I control power input based on it? No.

To each their own, but I think that I'll keep my thermometer in it's current position.

I too have a thermometer at the head and another at the boiler. In honesty I wouldn't be without them - for the reason you state and also to know when it's time to shut down (around 99.8 C normally - although I have let it run on a few degrees)

My comment was meant to be in addressing this part of Mike's post;

........... The matching controller is simple but gives you splendid control so you can easily adjust your temp to one or Two degrees. I looked at that or a inkbird PID controller. The problem with the inkbird it it outputs to a relay. Most real PIDs use an analog output but the inkbird relay controls temp by flickering which might be bad for the heater. It just seems easier to monitor overhead dial temp on the temperature gauge and adjust the manual knob.

[RedwoodHillBilly]

Now, an on topic post. What I might recommend is this https://www.amazon.com/Yeeco-Electronic ... B01CCK56QS" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" rel="nofollow

It is a 10Kw 240 v controller. It will work just fine on 120v. It has plenty of margin for your current application. It also gives you an upgrade path to, say, a 240v 5.5Kw element in your future. I used to use one of these on a 5.5Kw Dernord LWD element, until I designed my own. It's cheap as well. Just add a couple of cords and plugs and Bob's your uncle.

[RedwoodHillBilly]

Pikey, My post wasn't directed to you. There are other members here that tend to regurgitate the "party line" from the "echo chamber". I was just giving another opinion and use case.

[Antler24]

My post wasn't directed at piker either it was directed at the OP, but enough thread jacking from me, back to the topic!

[Mikey-moo]

Mike, they say you can't run a pot still by controlling the temperature - I say you CAN - just set the temperature at around 215 F or 103 C and adjust the power so you get the "Pencil lead stream" -

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