Tri-Clamp style Sanitary Hose to Copper Worm

[Dewstiller]

Hi,

I am contemplating a new build for a little 5 gallon mostly copper still and was interested in building my own "and first" Worm condenser. I am wondering if it's possible, or even a good idea, to connect the worm to the upper portion of the column with a Tri-Clamp style Stainless Steel Braided hose?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3302044 ... 139b5B4Y7U

It would look similar to the attached screenshot. I am not against using a standard copper pipe to connect the column and the worm, I was just curious if this approach would work? I did some searching but did not find much reading wise or images on google.

This link is the sale listing for the type of hose I am talking about, it unfortunately does not describe the inside of the tube (probably the most important aspect as it would for distilling); such as if it's teflon or some type of other plastic, etc. This is low cost example, as with more searching one finds tri-clamp style hoses for wineries and others listed as safe for distilleries, however they are very expensive.

Anyone ever seen this type of thing done?

[Demy]

Ciao, most likely the inside is rubber from my eye. If you want something flexible and mouldable look for csst tubes. They are entirely stainless steel with no rubber inside.

[Dewstiller]

Ciao Demy,

Molte grazie... for the suggestion. I took a moment to look at csst tubing and that in theory might work. The connections of making it all come together would be a bit more.

It would be nice if the tri-clamp style would work "out of the box." I will keep researching and maybe someone here might have some experience as well, to see if it is worth pursuing.

[Demy]

Look here https://bit.ly/3kIEZY the connections not triclamp but already wired, same tube. here an adapter that maybe will help you https://bit.ly/32TGfC0

[jimmayhugh]

Look: Silver Soldering Tri-clamp adapters to csst

[Dewstiller]

Yes, at least 1, probably 2 of these type of connections would be required for the idea. The copper coming from the worm would need to be fastened/converted to a tri clamp style fitting to attach it to the still column.

3 of these types or similar Male/Female fittings would be required to use a standard copper pipe that would be modular or be able to be broken down for storage connivence.

1 being permanently attached to the top of the worm bucket and the other 2 being on the copper piping leading up to the column.

With a flexible hose similar to the braided one, the ends are already tri clamp and I wouldn't have to worry about an extra pipe laying around and possibly getting bent, lost or some other imagined problem.

Just thinking out loud...

The CSST Flexible tubing does appear to be a good option if it simply meant attaching 2 fittings on the ends. Thanks for tip.

Jimmay - Yes i seen that thread, I remember reading it a bit back. I would prefer to avoid solder on this project, but will keep the possibility in mind.

[seabass]

For flexible stainless tubing, corrugated is the only option I know of. I don't think you'll be able to get that with triclamps without soldering.

Those braided stainless ones are always plastic tubing with the braid providing strength and protection to the line. They're usually vinyl.

[Dewstiller]

Thanks Seabass for the suggestion.

Stumbled upon some tri clamp style S.S. corrugated tubing, even cheap, about $20! One of the reviews shows it clearly in picture, it being plain stainless steel on the inside, translated review indicated it is difficult to bend and suggested ordering more than expected.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001061 ... CGS1C&mp=1

I also searched for tri clamp ptfe hose and it is made, but seems to be difficult to find pricing for it. I only need a couple of feet at most and most likely can't find a mfg. or retailer to sell me a tiny amount for a reasonable price.

Some prior research a couple of weeks ago, I found some hoses specifically labeled for distillery usage and Glacier Tanks sells them, but they are way, way too expensive for my small project. I am pretty sure the hose piece would end up costing more than the entire still setup. They are labeled as UHMWPE inside.

https://www.glaciertanks.com/distillery-hoses.html

I will keep do some more research...

[seabass]

Thanks Seabass for the suggestion.

Stumbled upon some tri clamp style S.S. corrugated tubing, even cheap, about $20! One of the reviews shows it clearly in picture, it being plain stainless steel on the inside, translated review indicated it is difficult to bend and suggested ordering more than expected.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001061 ... CGS1C&mp=1

That's weird. A bellow soft tube looks much different than the braided line they're showing. Maybe they just covered it up with a braid.

They usually look like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/i/4000707045786.html

[Demy]

Thanks Seabass for the suggestion.

Stumbled upon some tri clamp style S.S. corrugated tubing, even cheap, about $20! One of the reviews shows it clearly in picture, it being plain stainless steel on the inside, translated review indicated it is difficult to bend and suggested ordering more than expected.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001061 ... CGS1C&mp=1

I also searched for tri clamp ptfe hose and it is made, but seems to be difficult to find pricing for it. I only need a couple of feet at most and most likely can't find a mfg. or retailer to sell me a tiny amount for a reasonable price.

Some prior research a couple of weeks ago, I found some hoses specifically labeled for distillery usage and Glacier Tanks sells them, but they are way, way too expensive for my small project. I am pretty sure the hose piece would end up costing more than the entire still setup. They are labeled as UHMWPE inside.

https://www.glaciertanks.com/distillery-hoses.html

I will keep do some more research...

The first link (aliexpress) is definitely with inner rubber, that braid cannot be watertight. I know those pipes (variant with screw connection) they recognize on the fly. At this link https://bit.ly/3031orH there is a kit for the connection with long pipes, maybe you may be interested.

[seabass]

The first link (aliexpress) is definitely with inner rubber, that braid cannot be watertight. I know those pipes (variant with screw connection) they recognize on the fly. At this link https://bit.ly/3031orH there is a kit for the connection with long pipes, maybe you may be interested.

I think they are either using the wrong image or the wrong product description. It says it's a 302 stainless bellows tube but the picture is a braided tube that probably has a plastic tube under.

[Demy]

The first link (aliexpress) is definitely with inner rubber, that braid cannot be watertight. I know those pipes (variant with screw connection) they recognize on the fly. At this link https://bit.ly/3031orH there is a kit for the connection with long pipes, maybe you may be interested.

I think they are either using the wrong image or the wrong product description. It says it's a 302 stainless bellows tube but the picture is a braided tube that probably has a plastic tube under.

Actually it's weird, I saw an image below in the reviews where you see the inside and it looks like a corrugated tube, while the outside looks like a braid. I think you should contact the seller before buying!

[NineInchNails]

I'd just build a shotgun condenser instead. Shotgun condensers are extremely efficient and do not use much water. You can use the calculator on the parent site and calculate how bit it would need to be and if you want to oversize it (which I would), you would know just how big to build it.

A worm would probably be cheaper and easier so I get it. Probably cheaper than even a simple Liebig too.

[cob]

CSST will pool and smear unless it is vertical.

[NineInchNails]

If you use one Tri-Clamp 90 elbow and two 45 elbows then every joint can pivot and articulate to meet any angle to connect to anything. You can get a Tri-Clamp to NPT thread adapter to connect to the worm. I'd leave the adapter permanently connected to the worm and connect & disconnect using the Tri-Clamp.

[Dewstiller]

I'd just build a shotgun condenser instead. Shotgun condensers are extremely efficient and do not use much water. You can use the calculator on the parent site and calculate how bit it would need to be and if you want to oversize it (which I would), you would know just how big to build it.

A worm would probably be cheaper and easier so I get it. Probably cheaper than even a simple Liebig too.

I already have large 2" S.S. 450mm Shotgun condenser for my keg. For such a little 5 gallon / 18 liter or so little still I thought about trying my hand at building a worm for the variety and challenge of building my own.

Yes, with tri clamp tubing and elbows, a person can definitely come up many different possibilities. Probably allowing me to get very close to the top of the worm bucket without running much extra pipe to get there.

[Demy]

I'd just build a shotgun condenser instead. Shotgun condensers are extremely efficient and do not use much water. You can use the calculator on the parent site and calculate how bit it would need to be and if you want to oversize it (which I would), you would know just how big to build it.

A worm would probably be cheaper and easier so I get it. Probably cheaper than even a simple Liebig too.

I already have large 2" S.S. 450mm Shotgun condenser for my keg. For such a little 5 gallon / 18 liter or so little still I thought about trying my hand at building a worm for the variety and challenge of building my own.

Yes, with tri clamp tubing and elbows, a person can definitely come up many different possibilities. Probably allowing me to get very close to the top of the worm bucket without running much extra pipe to get there.

On my little still, I built a simple linear liebig, just wound a spiral thread on the inner tube. It works beautifully as long as you have a recirculation of water.