I'm building a controller to operate a 5500w 240v heating element in a keg. The design is based on the StillDragon controller, but adds a switch to control power at the controller box and a 120v outlet to plug a 12v fan into.
Basic crude schematic:
I would appreciate any feedback on the above. The idea is that the switch controls power to the fan and the dryer outlet, which the element will plug into. The potentiometer controls the power level to the dryer outlet. Any issues jump out?
My primary question is what should I add to help in controlling the power level to the controller and making it more likely that I can duplicate results? I've ready many threads that talk about volts and amps, but not sure which would be the easiest and what type of component that I would need to add to the above. Is that type of approach any better than just learning (through a few runs) where on the dial produces a stream vs a drip?
On your power out to the elements, I'd go with twist and locks rather than a "Dryer Plug" set up.
Make sure your switch is rated for 30 amps.
They do sell the small fans in 120 and 230 (or the like) volts for about the same money so I don't think you really need to add the transformer.
LWTCS wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 11:12 am
On your power out to the elements, I'd go with twist and locks rather than a "Dryer Plug" set up.
Make sure your switch is rated for 30 amps.
They do sell the small fans in 120 and 230 (or the like) volts for about the same money so I don't think you really need to add the transformer.
Based on reading here I'm adding this meter to the controller I'm currently building:
Some folks say they burn out if they're run at less than full, and that is likely because to power the unit the voltage side needs clean 120/240 to operate, but the watts are what I'm really interested in so I'm hooking up the voltage side to the two feeds pre-relay.
LWTCS wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 11:12 am
On your power out to the elements, I'd go with twist and locks rather than a "Dryer Plug" set up.
Make sure your switch is rated for 30 amps.
They do sell the small fans in 120 and 230 (or the like) volts for about the same money so I don't think you really need to add the transformer.
I already have the dryer cord, so was just trying to re-use. Same for the 12v fan - scavenged it from an old humidor cabinet. I have both of your suggestions on my already growing "upgrades" list.
TwoSheds wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 11:51 am
Based on reading here I'm adding this meter to the controller I'm currently building:
TwoSheds, this is where I was going with my last comment. I read on another thread, that you were involved with, where someone said to start off with it wide open and then just dial back the knob during the foreshots to get the output velocity (drip vs. stream) that you are looking for. That route would argue that you don't need anything else. What do you expect to get out of this type meter? Is it just a reference point, i.e. with a 5 gallon charge, I was at 1550w last time? I'm a little dubious as to how quickly the boiler will react to turning down the power...
TheoreticalJoe wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 12:16 pm
What do you expect to get out of this type meter? Is it just a reference point, i.e. with a 5 gallon charge, I was at 1550w last time? I'm a little dubious as to how quickly the boiler will react to turning down the power...
Personally, I’m just looking for another data point that might help me understand what’s going on, but…
From what I know of physics, and ignoring a few real-world complications like heat loss to the room, it doesn’t matter how much liquid is in the boiler. If you’re already at the boiling point of the mixture, adding X watts of power will result in Y vapor output. No doubt there’s a calculator for that.
I haven’t played with electric yet, but from my limited experience with gas and adjusting the product condenser input, both have surprisingly fast effects on the output.
Ground your pot chassis. Make sure you buy one with a 4th tab. I went a similar route with mine, but I used a USB computer fan and a cell phone charger to power it.
Here is a picture of the inside of mine. Note the ungrounded pot. this was the first one, the one I fried when I did something dumb and grounded the switch and not the chassis. There's a thread about it.
Edited to add: I forgot, make sure the heat sink is grounded as well. this picture was taken before I grounded the heat sink. I really should open it up and take a new picture.
My wiring diagram(minus the grounded pot) You dont need to ground the 30 amp rocker switch.
I routed my wire in and out on the same side, the bottom. The cord from the wall is 4 feet. The power cord out to the element is 12 feet. Cords are fixed to the box.
Here's my meter, powered up and running.
Fear and ridicule are the tactics of weak-minded cowards and tyrants who have no other leadership talent from which to draw in order to persuade.
Deplorable wrote: ↑Mon Jun 28, 2021 7:33 pm
Ground your pot chassis. Make sure you buy one with a 4th tab. I went a similar route with mine, but I used a USB computer fan and a cell phone charger to power it.
I forgot, make sure the heat sink is grounded as well. this picture was taken before I grounded the heat sink. I really should open it up and take a new picture.[/b]
You dont need to ground the 30 amp rocker switch.
Thanks for the great feedback. There is no "grounding lug" on the pot. Can I just solder a ground wire to the metal case on it? I'm grounding the SSR using the screw that attaches it to the heatsink, so that should get both. Finally, on the switch - I don't need to ground, but will it matter if I do? Just curious on this point...
There is no "grounding lug" on the pot. Can I just solder a ground wire to the metal case on it? I'm grounding the SSR using the screw that attaches it to the heatsink, so that should get both. Finally, on the switch - I don't need to ground, but will it matter if I do? Just curious on this point...
Yes you can solder a wire to the back of the pot to ground the chassis. All chassis components should be grounded so that if they fail in such a way as to short their exposed metal parts it will short to GND and trip the breaker.
Its a piece of piss to solder a wire to the case of a pot . Trick is to grab a small file and remove a small patch of plating, solder will then stick like shit to a blanket .
Also worth mentioning is electrical solder is different to lead free plumbers solder used to build copper stills.
Having spent nearly 30 years soldering I would recommend 60:40 tin lead rosin core solder for this kind of work .
Using a metal box, wouldn't the pot be automatically grounded by virtue of being attached to the box? That is, as long as the circuit ground is also attached in some way to the box.
Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
Yummyrum wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 4:32 am
Its a piece of piss to solder a wire to the case of a pot . Trick is to grab a small file and remove a small patch of plating, solder will then stick like shit to a blanket .
Also worth mentioning is electrical solder is different to lead free plumbers solder used to build copper stills.
Having spent nearly 30 years soldering I would recommend 60:40 tin lead rosin core solder for this kind of work .
I initially grabbed a spool of plumbers solder and then wondered if it was suitable for electrical work. I did a bit of research and found what you state above. I plan to pick up electrical solder this weekend. Also appreciate the tip about filing a small spot of plating away...
S-Cackalacky wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 9:56 am
Using a metal box, wouldn't the pot be automatically grounded by virtue of being attached to the box? That is, as long as the circuit ground is also attached in some way to the box.
I think you are correct, except I'm using a plastic box....
S-Cackalacky wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 9:56 am
Using a metal box, wouldn't the pot be automatically grounded by virtue of being attached to the box? That is, as long as the circuit ground is also attached in some way to the box.
I think you are correct, except I'm using a plastic box....
Ok, I was thinking of building a second controller using a plastic box. I'm thinking a grounding bus would work for that. That is, connect the circuit ground wire to the bus and every other component in the box to the bus. My pot has a forth connection on it for what I'm told is for a ground. If yours doesn't have one of those connections, I would imagine one of the soldering methods discussed here would work just as well.
Every new member should read this before doing anything else:
cob wrote: ↑Thu Jul 01, 2021 3:49 pm
Line your plastic box with thin aluminum as a bonding plate.
everything grounds to the bonding plate.
Even with a metal box you have to remove paint.
As S-Cackalacky suggests, I am using a grounding bus. Based on your (Cob's) suggestion, I think I am going to add a bonding plate to the cover (where the POT is mounted) and then ground the plate to the grounding bus. That should effectively ground the pot without having to solder directly to it.
The original diagram I posted has incorrect wiring for the dual pole switch, depending upon the manufacturer. If you are using one, pay attention to line in vs load out terminals.
Expecting the heating element later this week and plan to do vinegar and sacrificial run this weekend. Thanks for all of the advice...
I had to read that twice to get it, (gotta buzz goin) but that's a lot easier than soldering a wire to the case back of the pot.
